79 22' SS V5 Project

[ford290]

Pssst .... Mnsot be careful I think JF wants to know where the Magical Woods is.

Awesome job on your hull restoration. I am trying to figure out how to buck a rivet and you are adding doublers and moving engine mounts. Some how I think you will breeze though this restoration. I read your post and waterman's thread about drainage and the consensus on his thread was to keep the status quo and not drill or modify anything to compromise the ribs. Not Starcraft's greatest design in my opinion.
I have another question for you since you clearly know your way around a rivet. In your first photo in post 29 just to the right of your number 3 doubler , those 5 rivet holes on my stringer are elongated. Not sure how to fix. Remove all 5 and add an angled doubler strip on top with some sealant and rerivet? Thanks Mike

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[Mnsota]

Hey ford290, the location of the stock pile of v5's will never be given out, i may need anouther for the next project. I rode in one a few years ago and was very impressed, thats why i started looking for one. in my opinion if they had a .190 bottom skin it would be the ultimate used/resto boat. as for your elongated holes, I'd put a soft 1100 series 1/4" rivit in the hole. as long as the hole is not elongated too much larger than the shank and is smaller than the head. buck it with lots of 5200 on it to fill any voids the soft 1100 rivit doesn't fill. if u use a little longer rivet than normal you can buck a bigger shop head onto it, the soft 1100 is easy to do that with. that and you could put a small doubler on top of the stringers angle that is mated with the hull if you think the holes are too big. that would be my best advise. although I have a good bit of time doing sheet metal on aircraft, I'm not a expert when it comes to boats. by the way i wouldn't repair that way on a aircraft, but a boat can't fall from the sky. that's what I'd do, maybe someone else can chime in. do you think the elongated holes are bigger than what im thinkin they are?

 

[ford290]

Thanks Mnsota, I don't want to hijack your thread with questions on my boat, I appreciate your input. I will start my own thread with a picture of what I am facing. Keep an eye out for an 83 Mariner 220V thread.

 

[Mnsota]

no problem, i got a list of questions i need to ask you guys about thin alum repair, boat specific. ive worked on some lund stuff, but mostly thicker skined welded boats. ill post a pic of last project when i find pics, it was done before i had a "smart phone" so not as many pics as we take now days. i have heard the mariners? (spelling) are hard to find,but a nice ride and very efficient in regards to drag/fuel burn. let me know when u get some pics up. im no expert on rivited boats, but i have heard that at one time starcraft was owned by either cessna or piper aircraft. anyone know the history on that?

 

[jbcurt00]

No aviation DNA in the SC line to the best of my knowledge. But its traded hands multiple times, so perhaps 1 of the previous owners also had an interest in an aircraft maker.

There is a good bit of the original SC owners DNA in several other tin boat builders, which is why there is such a strong family resemblance w Sea Nymphs, Sylvans and IIRC 1 more whose name escapes me...

 

[GA_Boater]

No aviation DNA in the SC line to the best of my knowledge. But its traded hands multiple times, so perhaps 1 of the previous owners also had an interest in an aircraft maker.

There is a good bit of the original SC owners DNA in several other tin boat builders, which is why there is such a strong family resemblance w Sea Nymphs, Sylvans and IIRC 1 more whose name escapes me...

Smokercraft. The supposed parent co. of SC now, although the Shrock family owns 'em all now.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yeah, but I was thinking a son or brother to Mr Shrock started another line too.

BlueFin maybe? They've got the bow diamond too, right?

 

[Mnsota]

Couldnt remember where i heard that so i googled it. Found a couple articles about history of sc, heres a link to one. http://www.popupcamperhistory.com/starcraft.php I was wrong, they werent owned by, they had same owner.

 

[jbcurt00]

I guess the part about Bangor Punta being bought by Lear, was ownership twice removed, so I'd never heard that before. Interesting added info thanks for posting it.

I added a link to that article at the end of the brochure topics 1st page.

 

[Mnsota]

Not much progress lately, but I did get the transome holes epoxied and a cover made for transome. I made the cover out of .060 aluminum diamond plate instead of painting. It should look a little better once its acid washed to take the shine off.

 

[Mnsota]

I also decided to remove the channel that the rub rail attaches to, dont know the exact name of it. Picked up some 24' lenths of 1" aluminum square tubing to make a new rub rail. Used the plywood left over from the transome to make a template/ jig to get it close to the right bend before installing it. just waiting for the structural pop rivits to arrive so I can get it fittled and installed. Im thinking the corner trim pieces should still work with little or no modification. otherwise ill just 45 the corners and weld the seams.

 

[InMotion]

Nice work Mn... I like what you are doing here!! Are you planning on attaching rubber on the outside of the new rub rail or leaving it alum?

Jim

 

[Mnsota]

I think Ill leave it aluminum. It looks better than I expected. The aluminum was only $40, I think new rub rail rail would have been at least that much if not more.

 

[jbcurt00]

On a Starcraft, the alumimum part is the rub rail channel, the insert (likely vinyl) is the rub rail insert.

Interested to see how a 1in square tubing fits and looks. Good luck.

 

[bob johnson]

I am wondering about the longevity of your new rub rail.... I would think it would be hard to find some marine tubing like that 5000 series.... its probably 6061...if you paint it, you might not get as much corrosion...especially if it ever sees salt water. on my boat the rub rail really was an assembly of three pieces... an anchor frame that is riveted to the hull skin and then another aluminumextrusion that specifically holds the rubber rub rail insert.

id don't remember right now, but are you putting an inboard back in??

bob

 

[Mnsota]

My old rail was exactly what you described. The new one is 6061. I dont think im going to paint it, im thinking it would look beat up right away. Im going to go with a outboard on a bracket.

 

[hayko1971]

I think your new rub rail looks nice, I would want to run some good dock bumpers though to keep it from getting dented and rashed up though.... But then again that's just me, I'm not a very good boat driver coming into dock lol

 

[jbcurt00]

How does that 1" sq tube fit w the bow cap and transom end caps?

 

[Watermann]

I sure do love these v5 hulls, in fact I have a crush on them. :lol:

My SeaNymph has a solid AL rub rail too in the harder alloy and that sucker is tough.

I do have to wonder though why not just replace the vinyl insert, easier and the cost would be less.

 

[Mnsota]

How does that 1" sq tube fit w the bow cap and transom end caps?

Not good. I may just tig the seams and see how that looks orbuild a cap that fits better.