76 Hammond El Dorado V1950 Restoration

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Trying from my new laptop
20180822_195806.jpg
It worked, Got Photo's
This is the one inch alignment bar. Notice that it is towards the port side. This is what happens when tolerances stack up in the wrong direction.

20190708_185741.jpg
Installed Windshield.

20190722_183748.jpg
Installed New solid state MC-181 Pertronics and Ign. Coil.

20190809_135552.jpg
Trying to create an Engine cover box.

Will try to run it on muffs this week.
 

Attachments

  • 20190706_202810.jpg
    20190706_202810.jpg
    188 KB · Views: 1

ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
759
Exciting progress update! Thanks for sharing, glad the pics are working.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Well I was planning on the muffs, but I decided to weatherize the upholstery panels. After you reinstalled to check any last details on the panels, remove them. Verify you removed all panels that you are working on. :facepalm:

After finishing using WOG's Old Time Formula and throwing away the brush and rags. You notice the one board you forgot to take out of the boat. I'll let you guess. Look at the last photo with the engine cover. :watermelon:

Today I'll remove it and give it a few coats of WOG's OTF.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Still didn't remove board, but the engine does run.
I need to do a tune up on it. Ran it for about 20 minutes. Needs to adjust the idle, if I don't have it throttled slightly it will die. I'm just scared to try it at wide open :behindsofa:, but I know that sooner or later it'll happen.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Thanks for warning me. So I'll need a lake test soon.

I have a bucket list to finish thou, first.
Last part of the list include Safety Gear and Fuel.
And an Anchor. :watermelon:
Hopefully Labor Day Weekend.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Waterman,
Can you put the engine in a large bucket/can full of aqua and run it up as long as the water is being replaced?

What they say is the suction created by the water pump vs the motor's circulation pump can cause the raw water line to pinch closed starving the water flow to the motor. So no matter on muffs or in the water it can happen with the higher RPMs when not having any forward movement where water is forced in way faster than the pump can supply through the intakes on the lower.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,720
Yea you have to cheese it up so it doesn't get whoffed. Like joejoe at 123 communist.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,720
Ive always seen people using these. Hook up a garden hose and youve got all the water you need.

https://www.***************/buy/wes...V5PVO0IsFYf2eh1xTjy1o-gJHFze24WBoCrdwQAvD_BwE

Yea you have to cheese it up so it doesn't get whoffed. Like joejoe at 123 communist. It is the way most get around it.
Iboats has some really good pricing and I seen it across multiple boat forums.
The only issue I have is you need to research the product on the net, find the exact sku/model# and make sure it matches iboats limited product description.
I did em Iboats recently in regards to smart tabs for purchase from them to their sku#, pricing/description and no one responded. Was dif. from mfg.
 

ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
759
ah, my apologies. I've actually bought quite a few items for my boat off of iBoats. But figured that is such a generic part that it didnt matter the link I posted..

My thoughts was to use a Muff, which Watermann already noted doesnt always work.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Yesterday was just one of those type of days. :confused:

Was getting the boat ready for the weekend splash, motor adjusted could throttle it back and forth from 650 to 1500 RPM. Cleaned out all the junk. Got everything needed for the weekend together.

Getting dark decided to put the boat away into the portable garage tent for the night. Now I have a big mess to clean up.

Broke my Port Windshield, glass all over the boat. :faint2: It somehow caught the corner of the Windshield and tent roof pole.:jaw:

Luckily I have a 76 Galaxy parts boat with a similar Windshield.
I was going to just work on the engine cover today. Now I need to clean up the boat again.:drum:
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Oh man that's not good, hope you get out on the water for the holiday weekend anyway.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Well it floats, engine runs, but it goes clunk in reverse and nothing in forward.

I'm hoping its either the interrupt switch and cable problem. Not the outdrive itself.

Otherwise, I had a decent weekend with the family
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Disconnect the lower shift cable and manually pulling and pushing while turning the prop to see if it locks up. I think pushing and turning counter is forward, trying to remember at my age hurts sometimes. :lol:

That should tell you if it's the gear case or the shift adjustment.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Have been researching it. Have found a step by step procedure. Can't check it out yet, boats down in Louisville.

I got this from “Alpha one shifting problems [Archive] – Boat Repair Forum”
Hope it can work on the MC-1 Mercruiser Outdrive that I have.

"kghost"
If I'm remembering right the gen 1 alphas should be set at 5 7/8 inch. The gen 2 is six inch. All the shift cables that I have changed I run a tap through the bell housing and the retaining nut seats all the way against the bell housing. When you go back to check this turn the shift shaft on the lower unit to make sure there isn't a problem in the drive. If you can manually engage the drive into forward neutral and reverse, it's the cable. Hope this helps your problem.

Here is the correct adjustment procedure...................if you are not 100% sure of settings please refrain from posting them........it only confuses others........

Trim out drive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C ’Clockwise...
Have second person rotate prop counter clockwise until the prop is fully engaged and will not turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunnion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunnion to make that distance 6 inches. No more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL wide-open throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto shift bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the trunnion so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before installing it, turn the brass trunnion four complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely. NO CLICKING
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clicking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock position detent NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket, where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

Try this and retest in water under load.

Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") anymore and replace the control cable.

Short cable measurement test, remove short cable from shift bracket, push all the way in and spin prop by hand until full forward is made. Make a mark on shift cable end where the plastic stops over the metal.
Now with someone holding the prop from spinning pull the cable end out with two fingers, as soon as resistance is felt mark the inner cable where the plastic cable end ends. Now measure between the marks,
The measurement should be if I remember correctly 1/2 " to 9/16". Anymore and the cable or shift linkage at out drive or gimbal housing is bad.
 
Top