74 Starcraft Holiday resto

g0nef1sshn

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What stripper is the best at stripping and which is the easiest to work with and clean up... Once I use stripper and wash with soap and water, do I have to do the polishing thing... does anyone suggest leaving the bottom bare, and if so what technique did you use... I have put some Gluvit on the stern area inside rivits and it turned a little yellow... I wounder if that might be a good bottom paint... also can you paint over Gluvit... Mr. WaterMan... That is a fine job... Is that primer paint , if so who's did you use...



Kleen strip worked the best for me, but burned upon skin contact. The citrus stip also worked, just not as effective on burning though multiple layers of paint in one shot. I left most of my hull bare on the bottom. Figured I could always paint in the future if I need to and no one really ever sees it unless they look at your boat trailer while its on it. Or they are snorklin? :confused:
 

Watermann

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The primer was rusto SE and the rusto topside paint.
 

SkidRowBill

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64Osby... I put some gluvit over the rear transom skin... Tell me what I need to do... Just a novice here... I noticed that a few of the pits were 1/2 the thickness of the skin... most were at 1/5th or so... do I need to fill them... I was thinking that the Gluvit will at least stop the corrosion... where am I going wrong???
 

Watermann

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Bill, I'm not sure where the gluvit to cover the transom skin pitting idea came from but... In most of the resto threads the guys are using either JB weld or MarineTex to fill the pitting, sanding smooth, primer and some paint too.
 

hayko1971

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I filled pits in my transom skin with marine formula jb weld, sanded smooth then primed and painted. I imagine it would stick to the Gluvit. Just follow the labels on your paints and it'll turn out great.
 

g0nef1sshn

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64Osby... I put some gluvit over the rear transom skin... Tell me what I need to do... Just a novice here... I noticed that a few of the pits were 1/2 the thickness of the skin... most were at 1/5th or so... do I need to fill them... I was thinking that the Gluvit will at least stop the corrosion... where am I going wrong???

You will want to clean those pitted areas with an acidic type wash before covering it up is what I know. I used cleaning strength vinegar to clean mine up before priming and painting.
 

hayko1971

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You will want to clean those pitted areas with an acidic type wash before covering it up is what I know. I used cleaning strength vinegar to clean mine up before priming and painting.

Yes, also I hit mine with an abrasive cup brush first.. My intention was to clean up the corrosion and give the aluminum a little tooth for the JB weld epoxy to grip.
 

64osby

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^^^ All these guys are spot on with using JB Weld or MarineTex after using a wire brush and vinegar wash and water rinse.

I'll be doing a whole lot of that to my Lone Star.
 

will w.

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Transom wood looks great, Bill! I had some sag in mine.

Sounds like a very sound idea to get rid of that corrosion before sealing. IMO, filling the pits will prevent voids that would otherwise have potential to hold moisture.
 

SkidRowBill

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Gonefishinn... Man it took me a minute to decipher that... I am going to investigate this stripper thing... back in my day the strippers that I got to know at the fair could remove this paint in seconds... Roger on the JB weld(marine) on the stern transom skin... I ground the heck out of it with the 2 inch and 1 inch cup brushes and washed with 50/50 apple cider vinagar and water, let dry, then I laid the left over Gluvit on it... That gluvit is great stuff on the transom wood... it dries hard as a rock but is supposed to be flexable... Question I am thinking of putting a light coat of Gluvit on the finished transom wood and while it is tacky I will clad it in Gavalume aluminum... First of all I wouder if this galvalume will have some sort of reaction with the aluminum boat, also do you think that the glu-vit will work as a good enough adheasive... I will try to fold the edges to cover and leave the back bare against the transom skin as you can see I have a mile of this stuff... it should be a great protection from the weather and sun... this is what my roof is done in...
 

SkidRowBill

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Now I have a bum wing... have to hire someone to turn it into firewood for the fire pit next to where I am standing in the first photo... here is one from the porch... thats the Admiral and two of our 4 children..
 

SkidRowBill

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I really hope to get moving on the boat soon... I think that I can do the stripping thing with one arm... I have alot of things ready to install if I can only find a few more hours in each day... Now I have to see my Doctor and Plan to get my second shoulder done... The first one laid me up for 10 weeks... it hurt so bad the first week to 10 days I swore that I would never get the other one done even if it was ready to fall off... well... unfortunately its ready... I had the other one done two years ago and now I am glad I did... But rest assured I am not too happy facing another 10 weeks of Pain at one level or another... I am going to try to cut that aluminum sheet if you guys think that it is a good idea the way I have laid it out... when I had the roof done I read all that I could about this Galvalume... its a galvanised aluminum with some sort of paint finnish... it does have a problem when it comes into contact with other metals but the installer did my chimney flashing with the original lead... we talked about what I had read and gave him coppies of it from the manufacturer and he said that he has had no problems and hand wrote a 30 year Guarantee... All My best..., be back soon... Wild Bill from SkidRow...
 

Watermann

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Very nice place you have Bill, too bad about the oak but looks like maybe the core was rotten anyway.

One of my coworkers had shoulder surgery and it's taken him forever to get back to work and now there's scar tissue that's limiting his range of motion. The stories I've heard from him is enough to make me cringe. :grumpy:
 

SkidRowBill

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Okay... I found the Kleen Strip for aircraft at our local Motor Supply... $42.20 per gallon... I will get one and see how far it goes... the weather here is to die for... 70's, cool breeze... just stay out of the sun... unfortunately my boat is on the south side of the house... which means I will be able to work on it until December.. Later fella's... whish me good luck... photo's to follow...
 

g0nef1sshn

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Bill, read the specs on the gallon regarding best air temps to use it. If I remember right, the cooler it is the longer you are going to want to let it soak in. In the hot sun that stuff seems to bubble paint instantly. If you end up leaving it on for while try covering it with plastic sheets so it holds the moisture against the paint and to keep it from evaporating.
 

SkidRowBill

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Apply at temps between 65F and 90F... Avoid direct sunlight and strong breeze... let rest 5 to 15 minutes... remove with plastic scraper... clean with water... Do areas no larger than 9 square feet at one time...
 

SkidRowBill

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A friend of mine from the Cape(Cod) said his brother is redoing an 18 foot aluminum boat and had the floatation blown in... any body heard of this???
 

g0nef1sshn

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sounds likes a pour in foam type stuff to me, just a different application method. picture insulation getting sprayed in.
 

64osby

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I know a guy that sprays it for buildings. They use 2lb and it is not all closed cell. He can get 3lb. Takes different equipment to spray 4lb.

They issue with spray in is getting enough access to get the gun under the sole if the floor has been installed. If it was sprayed then the floor installed the foam would have to be cut, exposing the skin that forms, or the the space would not be filled to its capacity.

If the floor is in, pouring it in would be the best process IMO.
 
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