69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs, points and adjust carb

[HighTrim]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

This is about the best article I have read on testing these old points and coils. Have a read, it will save you trouble shooting in the future.

http://www.pochefamily.org/outboard/Coils.htm

It will only cause problems if there is a short in the line somewhere, or the ends of the wire where the cut is is not 100% sealed up. While its apart I would personally run new wires, with proper length, that way if you do decide to put a kill button the wires are run and where they should be. All you need is a simple push button switch available almost anywhere for like 10 bucks. It is a very easy hookup.

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Cool....Makes me wish I'd bought a analog meter last night instead of the digital one.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Yeah the cheap little analogs are what works best on these older motors.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Glad you found the spark. I would highly recommend hooking up a kill switch. I've added push button lanyard kill switches to all my vintage motors and couldn't be happier. They make any motor safe and easy to use. Best of all they only cost about $10 and take about 20 min. to install. Here are some pics.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachoice-Pro...0P5E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1327261754&sr=8-2

 

[84toyota]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

High Trim - This may be a dumb question (and I don't mean to highjack the thread)... Where do you find the analog meters, and how much should they cost?

Ken

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Glad you found the spark. I would highly recommend hooking up a kill switch. I've added push button lanyard kill switches to all my vintage motors and couldn't be happier. They make any motor safe and easy to use. Best of all they only cost about $10 and take about 20 min. to install. Here are some pics.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachoice-Pro...0P5E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1327261754&sr=8-2

Will do KFA.. adding a boat and 2 40hp Johnson's to my collection this past week. I'm now Broke. But payday's Friday ,and Income tax is just around the corner so I'll put one in soon. Fixing to put her in a tub and see if she'll go

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

High Trim - This may be a dumb question (and I don't mean to highjack the thread)... Where do you find the analog meters, and how much should they cost?

Ken

They are dirt cheap, around 5 bucks. You want the scale like in this one, 1 click counter clockwise(left) from off. The Rx1K ohms for all this testing. I am not promoting this particualar meter or site, just the first one that popped up on a google search. Go to your local Radio Shack, electronics store, etc... They are a dime a dozen but quite handy for troubleshooting magneto ignitions.

http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/mf213f.htm

 

[wilde1j]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Radio Shack has them.

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Ok guys got her running. with small problem I couldn't get any water to come out of the exhaust hole do you guys think I had it covered with enough water in this pick it ran for 3 maybe 4 minutes. and the back of the motor was hot to the touch like 1 second then you had to move your hand. Other times when i started in something it was a tall trash can and it had more water in it. I never had any problems not getting water flow before

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

No worries put it in a trash can and the water came right out. Tomorrow I'll post a video maybe you guys can help me figure out my idle. It's been this way since i got it you have to keep on the throttle or it will die at low rpm it won't just stay idling at low speeds, But at least it's running.

 

[84toyota]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Radio Shack has them.

I checked my local radio shack... $17 or $32! I bought one from Sears for $12, although I found a number of them online for $5/free shipping.
Ken

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Hi cc. Glad you got her running. Try not to let it run if it's not pumping plenty of water. I would be a shame to blow a head gasket at this point. Try submerging the leg another 6"-8". It should help that big girl get plenty of water for cooling. 55 gal drums and/or big old trash cans work well as test tanks. While your motor would probably pump water at that depth in a lake, it's harder in a small tank when the underwater exhaust aerates the water and causes it to spill out too. Once you've got the low speed idle dialed in ok in the tank you'll need to tweak it again on the water where you'll have much more back-pressure against the exhaust due to the large amount of water. The hi speed needle will need to beset at speed on the water. Here's a handy link for setting up the carb, a pic of the test tank water line and vid showing about to expect.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGWgeBXZuxo (approx. 1:38 mark)

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Cool thanks man...I put it in a trash can and it pumped right out. It ran for like 1 minutes then maybe a couple more more minutes. I could touch the block but only for a second do you think I let it get to hot. I read somewhere that some don't spit out water till they get hot enough. So I was thinking that might be the case. I googled it ,and someone said they need more water than that especially after sitting for while. I also read somewhere a while ago that the High speed needle on this model was fixed needle. I Hope cause trying to drive at full speed and adjust a screw on the carb would almost certainly end with me overboard LOL

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Yeah, I think by '69 the high speed needle might have been fixed. I had a '66 33 hp that was adjustable, so I wasn't sure. Sounds like you're good to go.

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

this is my little bit of insight..with the f/w off..mark the coil closest to the carb when the the motor is in the start position..I use a dab of liquid electrical sealant.. this is the coil for the No.1, Top, cylinder. Now, use a scribe mark to mark the armature plate and some point right below it so that you'll know you've put it back on in the same position it was in.
Shorting switch wires disconnected, plug wire retainer on rear of head disconnected, plugwires off plugs, you should be ready to remove the armature plate. The 4 screws closest to the crank end hold it on. Here is what I've experienced : replacing the armature plate screws into the retainer can be more of a challange than you would think. I spent almost 1 hr. just trying to align and start those 4 screws. I ended up with a 2 small punches and a pick in 3 of the screw holes just to align both plate and retainer to get one screw started. I know there's got to be a better way. I'm considering taking one screw out and finding some longer screws of the same thread count and size, grinding off the heads and as much of the threads as needed, then as each screw is removed from the armature plate, use one of these aligning "studs" in its place so that the plate can slip back over them and the alignment with the retainer will be held. I dunno, maybe it was just me but it sure was "irritating".
Cajuncook and all the other posters provide all the other details and tips that I would. Great pics as well! Those plugwires have to be tight on the underside of the plate or invariably they'll jam against something making the plate hard to turn and it'll try to "spring back".
Plug boots and terminal ends : it seems Joe Reeves has a pic of stripping off some of the insulation on the plugwire, fanning out the inner wires so that they'll be in contact with the spiral end of the terminal when you push the spiked end of the terminal into the plug wire. It will provide a greater area of contact between the plugwire and terminal. A little WD makes shoving the terminal into the plugboot easier..it'll be tight, but I guess it's suppose to be that way.
Try to get the plug wire approximately the same length as the original because if it's just a few inches longer the cowl latch tries to entangle itself when you take the cowl off or put it on.
Hold the point arms away from the cam when you place the armature plate back on....seems commonsenscical but may be something you'd overlook.
This will be far less "daunting" than your lower unit work.

Altn.... I found that to be pretty difficult to. I realized that once you put the armature plate down your holes had to be perfectly aligned. Because if you try and spin the plate the mount underneath moves with it. Once I realized that I took a really small screwdriver and a flash light. I stuck the screwdriver thru the armature plate in one of the mounting screw holes. Then slide it as far down the crankshaft as i could. Making sure all the other screw holes where in the right spot ,and using the flash light to see. Then while the plate was still raised just enough for me to see the mounting holes spun the plate till the holes lined up and the screwdriver fell in the mounting hole. Then just set it down ,and put the screws in. Still took a minute thu.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Your motor should crank really easily cold or hot. Have you got it starting easily when it's cold, and idling properly? IF not, check and see if the choke plate is closing totally when you pull the choke out, and STAYING fully closed when you release it. There may be a nylon detent in the carb cover where the choke lever slides through that holds the choke totally closed. If it's broken, the choke won't stay fully closed when you let go of the choke knob and it will be a bear to start. As far as the not idling smoothly, if you're getting spark that will cross at least a 1/4" air gap on both plugs, then I'd suggest making sure your carb is sychronized. The throttle plate in the back of the carb should just start to open as you give it throttle, when the roller on the carb's throttle lever hits the punch mark on the throttle cam on the armature plate. If it still won't idle right, you either have a dirty carb, a vacuum leak, or low compression. I guess you could check where the gears on the tiller connect and make sure they haven't skipped a tooth either. Have you ever checked compression on it? That's always something that I check first off.
I second the suggestion on the kill switch. It's cheap and easy to fix, and it will make the motor start so easily when it's warmed up, that you will be amazed vs. killing it by closing the throttle.
BTW, your motor does have a fixed high speed jet, and the orifice has to be absolutely spotlessly clean for the motor to run properly. Are the packing washers on your low speed jet good, and is the nut on the jet screw tight enough so that the idle jet screw is not backing out?j
Just a few questions, only meant to help you solve the problem.
GOod luck,
JBfJ

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Thanks JB. I'm still pretty new to all this I've done a lower unit and now an ignition. But that's really all my experience with boat motors. I've changed parts on cars, but nothing to technical. I have no doubt I can do any of it ,but it's the terminology that gets me till I do it once. All your suggestions sound great. I just get lost in the words. The motor has never started easy when it's cold. Not saying it shouldn't just that it never has. So something's diffiently a little off. I was hoping that the new ignition system would help,and it my have. I probably pulled it 30 to 40 times today to get it to start maybe more I had almost given up,but it also has not been run in 4 to 5 months. So i was going to give it a few days then see how it started. It's rep has been once it starts for the day for the rest of the day it's good. I'd like to fix whatever it is. I'm not totally sure where the choke plate is ,but if it's front and center behind the silencer. You may have it. Cause tonight I don't think it moved at all. I'll check that better tomorrow. It's got good spark, But the synchronized part I'm lost. Roller,throttle lever,punch mark,throttle cam???. Please excuse my inexperience. I'm pretty sure about the roller ,and just looked in the manual for the throttle cam so when this roller first makes contact with the cam it should idle there. I don't think it will but again not knowing these terms and pieces. I've not known what to look at. It will idle there,but it doesn't stay at the same rpm it will go up a little then it will die. That's pretty much what it does idle erratically then die when trying to get it to idle at lower rpm. Should the roller go all the way up that plate till it gets to the part that kicks out alot or just about half way on the throttle cam? Would compression be an issue if it ran really well at full throttle? I have never checked compression but the motor ran well at full throttle and pretty good at low speed. It was between those to speeds that it seemed to not preform well. I paid 500$ for it so I hope compression is good. Just really got into the boat world last summer so I'm green and differently was when I went to buy this motor. Not saying that I got jobbed, But I know alot more now mainly thanks to everyone here on Iboats. Plan on adding kill switch soon.I've messed with the low speed idle ,and made it run better,but that was when I got the motor I will check all of the other stuff I can find tomorrow. Not sure about the packing washer's,but pretty sure I can find the low speed nut and see if it's loose. Thanks again for your help diffiently gave me alot to look into and figure out so maybe it will run better.

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Jb absolutely the choke was the problem with the hard start. When I pulled the choke out nothing moved,as I looked at all the parts. I saw where the choke connects up to a spring that's supposed to close the choke plate. That spring is broke ,and does nothing. I pushed the lever that the spring is supposed to and it closed the plate the motor started first pull dead cold. The Idle is another question thu. I did what I could make out it said to do in the top secret file. Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond.As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. This part is a little hard to understand. At any rate It did not seem to mater where the slow speed screw was in my motor. I started like it said lightly seated,then backed out 1 and a half turns,But no matter how far I turned the screw in either direction there was no noticeable difference. I ran it with the screw 1/4 turn out from seated,and about to fall out of the hole, and there wasn't much differance. None really that I could tell. Should there be a big difference. At first it seemed to idle better all the way out. But just cause I figured it should be closer to all the way in . I lightly seated then backed out turn and half. Then I put the cowl on ,and it Idled alot better. So I think it will Idle better with cover on ,and there is something wrong with the S/S needle

 

[lindy46]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Make sure the packing nut is tight enough. The needle threads into a sleeve which just slides into the opening, and is held tight by the packing nut. If the nut isn't tight enough, sometimes the sleeve will spin with the needle, so you are effectively not changing the setting. If turning the needle doesn't affect the idleing of the engine, it's usually because the sleeve is slipping.

 

[ccvolsdhf]

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Re: 69 Evinrude How to replace coils,condensers,plugs ,and points

Thanks lindy will Examine further. Here's a pick of what I was turning and the spring behind it thats broke

[/IMG]
I don't see a nut behind it could someone describe it from this pic or draw an arrow to it. Thanks. I will check the manual ,and see if it says anything about it