68 Offshore restoration

[Sharpie223]

Took it for a test run today, it wouldn't start for a long time, then it had issues holding idle. Finally was able to put it in gear but if I gave it much throttle it would die. My best guess is that I need to tear apart and clean my carbs again. I need to be better about draining and storing these right. Eventually I'm looking to repower with something fuel injected for simplicity.

I have noticed each time that I've been out that the boat rattles/shakes a lot at low motor RPMs. Does anyone else have this?

 

[SHSU]

How much shaking we talking about? My 1970's Evinrude vibrates the hull at low speed, but not something I would think abnormal for an engine of that age. As for the carbs, you using a ethanol based fuel, you using a fuel stabilizer?

SHSU

 

[Sharpie223]

Shaking, I couldn't tell you a side to side magnitude in inches, probably not actually much. It does make anything in the side storage rattle quite a bit and if the motor is centered it will shake itself to one side turning the steering. The outboard is a '97 suzuki dt75. I think I am more curious if there is anything that could be worn out leading to the shaking, should the cable connection have any kind of damper to it? My main concern would be any excessive vibration wearing at rivets. It mellows out at higher rpm.

I use ethanol gas but use a fuel stabilizer with ethanol treatment. This has always worked for me in the past, the real issue is that I filled up last year planning for more use, but never did. The heat then evaporated about half the fuel, certainly leading to increased gumming. I just need to give it a better cleaning and a better fuel/carb maintenance plan. A fuel injected motor would still be nicer in my mind, but looking at them, it's a minimum of 50 lbs extra for an etec, and closer to 100 lbs more for an optimax or a 4 stroke, and raises the question how much the hp rating of the boat plays into transom strength for hanging the weight.

 

[SHSU]

Not familiar with your engine, but wouldn't expect it to shake as bad as you mention. Might do some Googling to see if others have experienced similar. Weird that it goes away under power.

As for hanging a new motor, I am with you on what the extra weight will actually add. Also the price is what kills me... lol. Hard to justify ~10k when I have a motor that is working.

SHSU

 

[Sharpie223]

Back at it today to kick off project season.

Installed some rear seat covers. I originally wanted to have these fold all the way back (flat), but decided today there's no good reason for that. So I will find some method to attach them to the seat backs that allows each to slide relative to each other. The top flap (front when closed) just sits straight back, it will need a limiter strap. I will find some strong magnets for latching closed.


Then I cut a piece to fill the opening in the front. Ran out of hinges, so I couldn't attach yet. I decided I prefer a full bow platform, but wanted easy to access storage.


I will continue with the elevated surface to the back of the console.

Finally, bought a tig welder and I've spent a couple weekends getting used to it. I have only burned some aluminum so far, I think I may not be giving enough gas flow. I set it to chart specs, but my patterns look similar to lack of gas pictures online. Once I figure this out, I can patch the holes in my gunnels, and then weld a new windshield frame how I want it.

 

[SHSU]

I like the hidden seats. Very nice!!! Also I did the front deck too, and it works well for us.

SHSU

 

[BOYS & TOYS]

Back at it today to kick off project season.

Installed some rear seat covers. I originally wanted to have these fold all the way back (flat), but decided today there's no good reason for that. So I will find some method to attach them to the seat backs that allows each to slide relative to each other. The top flap (front when closed) just sits straight back, it will need a limiter strap. I will find some strong magnets for latching closed.
View attachment 403737

Then I cut a piece to fill the opening in the front. Ran out of hinges, so I couldn't attach yet. I decided I prefer a full bow platform, but wanted easy to access storage.
View attachment 403738

I will continue with the elevated surface to the back of the console.

Finally, bought a tig welder and I've spent a couple weekends getting used to it. I have only burned some aluminum so far, I think I may not be giving enough gas flow. I set it to chart specs, but my patterns look similar to lack of gas pictures online. Once I figure this out, I can patch the holes in my gunnels, and then weld a new windshield frame how I want it.

Not sure if you're practicing with old/corroded aluminum but it would be best to start with new/clean. When you hit corrosion with the arc dark soot appears and it needs cleaned again, each time.
Do you have mig or spool gun experience?
What did you set the gas flow at?

 

[Sharpie223]

Not sure if you're practicing with old/corroded aluminum but it would be best to start with new/clean. When you hit corrosion with the arc dark soot appears and it needs cleaned again, each time.
Do you have mig or spool gun experience?
What did you set the gas flow at?

My experience so far has been flux core on steel. No true mig and no spool gun experience. TIG torch and filler control is certainly taking some getting used to.
I am currently practicing with scrap from the boat, so definitely old and thick corrosion. I wire wheeled as best as I could and then wiped down with acetone, but this is still a suspicion. My thought was to practicing filling holes on the actual aluminum that's on the boat, though I'm starting to think epoxy for filler again...
Gas was set to 10 cfh per everything I could find. I later doubled that and it seemed to do better just laying a normal bead down, I'm not sure if I trust my regulator.
My .04 (I read use whatever size is just under the thickness of material) tungsten balls up seemingly no matter the settings, any thoughts on what to check? Even more gas? Amps were set to 50 (1 amp per .001 material, correct?), 90 hz, 30% balance. Using pure argon. Size 5 cup, also tried a 6.

 

[BOYS & TOYS]

My experience so far has been flux core on steel. No true mig and no spool gun experience. TIG torch and filler control is certainly taking some getting used to.
I am currently practicing with scrap from the boat, so definitely old and thick corrosion. I wire wheeled as best as I could and then wiped down with acetone, but this is still a suspicion. My thought was to practicing filling holes on the actual aluminum that's on the boat, though I'm starting to think epoxy for filler again...
Gas was set to 10 cfh per everything I could find. I later doubled that and it seemed to do better just laying a normal bead down, I'm not sure if I trust my regulator.
My .04 (I read use whatever size is just under the thickness of material) tungsten balls up seemingly no matter the settings, any thoughts on what to check? Even more gas? Amps were set to 50 (1 amp per .001 material, correct?), 90 hz, 30% balance. Using pure argon. Size 5 cup, also tried a 6.

The ball on the tungsten is fine and some prefer it.

Aluminum can corroded kind of like Swiss cheese where the surface looks clean and then dark soot appears after you arc it. Keep cleaning, dirty aluminum doesn't weld easy.
Try the same gauge but new material because welding holes in thin,corroded aluminum is harder.
My new tig has auto settings that I start with then maybe adjust for better cleaning.
My gas flow is probably around 15 or so. I'm cheap so I try not to waste it.

If I'm using the foot pedal I will set the Amp,s higher and use what I want. Sometimes you want quick heat because aluminum conducts it away quickly.

I find welding corroded holes easier with a magnifying lens in my helmet.

Not sure what size tungsten you mean. I probably use larger diameter than recommended.