Ferrellb07
Cadet
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2017
- Messages
- 6
I have been using this forum for years for information, but have never posted anything. The information here has solved a ton of issues for me. I have searched and searched on my current issue and found a lot of people describing low WOT RPM issues, but none of them helped me. I am now asking for help as I feel that I have tried everything.
I have a 22ft Bowrider with a 2001 Merc 350 EFI(serial 0M007346). I can only reach 4000 RPM with only myself on the boat. I think I should be seeing 4600-5000 rpm. I have found Don's list for low WOT and I have been through everything, or so I think. See below for what I have tried already:
This is Don's list for possible causes of low WOT, and I will add in bold what I have tried.
1. Fuel condition. Type and Octane possibly old fuel, I have connected a separate red fuel can with known good fuel just before the fuel pump
2. Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades I have the same prop it's always had (SS Mercury 48-13702 21P) It does not appear to be damaged, I've even taped a stiff wire to the outdrive and it contacted the prop in the same place on all blades.
3. Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test I performed this fuel system test with vacuum gauge and clear tubing right before the fuel filter, no bubbles.
4. Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse.I did find where the previous owner had WAY too much oil in the crankcase. Twice the distance from add-full above the full mark on dipstick. I pumped the excess oil out and it is now at the correct level.
5. Marine growth on hull and outdrive. I pulled the boat out of the water and cleaned everything
6. Wrong gear ratio in outdrive no changes to the outdrive
7. Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor) I ran it with the flame arrestor off, no change
8. Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive, I pulled the outdrive and looked up the exhaust belows and looked into the exhaust cavity in the lower unit, I did not see anything out of the ordinary.
9. Poor cylinder compression Compression Test Compression test checked out OK
10. Carburetor defective, or wrong type.EFI
11. Fuel pump pressure and vacuum I am reading 35 PSI at the fuel rail under load, this is what it should be for my engine. I thought it should be 43psi for some time, purchased a new fuel pump and installed. I pulled the vacuum line at the throttle body at idle and the fuel pressure jumped up to 35 psi. Still didn't help
12. Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed. I am the only person on the boat. I moved the trim up and down and could only reach 4000 rpm with the trim most of the way up
13. Engine Overheating Engine is not overheating
14. Engine timing and ignition system operation new distributor cap and rotor. New coil. New wires and plugs. Plugs are the merc recommended plugs for my engine and are gapped correctly. Checked and double checked to make sure plug wires are connected correctly. New magnetic pickup inside distributor.
15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully No change to linkage. The throttle body opens fully. New throttle position sensor.
As you can see I am very stumped. I do not know what I should try next. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks
I have a 22ft Bowrider with a 2001 Merc 350 EFI(serial 0M007346). I can only reach 4000 RPM with only myself on the boat. I think I should be seeing 4600-5000 rpm. I have found Don's list for low WOT and I have been through everything, or so I think. See below for what I have tried already:
This is Don's list for possible causes of low WOT, and I will add in bold what I have tried.
1. Fuel condition. Type and Octane possibly old fuel, I have connected a separate red fuel can with known good fuel just before the fuel pump
2. Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades I have the same prop it's always had (SS Mercury 48-13702 21P) It does not appear to be damaged, I've even taped a stiff wire to the outdrive and it contacted the prop in the same place on all blades.
3. Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test I performed this fuel system test with vacuum gauge and clear tubing right before the fuel filter, no bubbles.
4. Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse.I did find where the previous owner had WAY too much oil in the crankcase. Twice the distance from add-full above the full mark on dipstick. I pumped the excess oil out and it is now at the correct level.
5. Marine growth on hull and outdrive. I pulled the boat out of the water and cleaned everything
6. Wrong gear ratio in outdrive no changes to the outdrive
7. Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor) I ran it with the flame arrestor off, no change
8. Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive, I pulled the outdrive and looked up the exhaust belows and looked into the exhaust cavity in the lower unit, I did not see anything out of the ordinary.
9. Poor cylinder compression Compression Test Compression test checked out OK
10. Carburetor defective, or wrong type.EFI
11. Fuel pump pressure and vacuum I am reading 35 PSI at the fuel rail under load, this is what it should be for my engine. I thought it should be 43psi for some time, purchased a new fuel pump and installed. I pulled the vacuum line at the throttle body at idle and the fuel pressure jumped up to 35 psi. Still didn't help
12. Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed. I am the only person on the boat. I moved the trim up and down and could only reach 4000 rpm with the trim most of the way up
13. Engine Overheating Engine is not overheating
14. Engine timing and ignition system operation new distributor cap and rotor. New coil. New wires and plugs. Plugs are the merc recommended plugs for my engine and are gapped correctly. Checked and double checked to make sure plug wires are connected correctly. New magnetic pickup inside distributor.
15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully No change to linkage. The throttle body opens fully. New throttle position sensor.
As you can see I am very stumped. I do not know what I should try next. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks