It’s got both evidently or at least suspected water at this point… but it’s also running well enough that I doubt changing it entirely is really neededSo we went from oil leak fix to water leak into engine fix?
Plan on addressing them. I meant swapping to another engine.So the leaks will be getting better? or will the manifold rust more and leak more?
take the plugs out after it sits and spin the engine if water is leaking in after shut down you will see it come out the plug hole, or have you already confirmed that ?Plan on addressing them. I meant swapping to another engine.
oil makes sense given the age of the engine. But usually water will steam clean the plug. Easy to take them out and spin it after it sits.I don’t think it’s freeze damage as there is zero signs of that as well as the PO used antifreeze to winterize. I haven’t spun it over with no plugs. Just a suspicion. #4 looked wet with oil to me but perhaps it’s oily and wet with water as well. Zero water in oil when I drained it. It’s just a feeling at this point but a gut feeling
1-3 were slightly tan not perfectly steam cleaned white like I would expect. 4 was black. It now has 4 new plugs. I can’t remember the number but I looked it up and same number AC Delco that came out. I’ll have to check the plugs when I get to the boat this weekend.. this engine has DDIS with the single coil. Is the DDIS coil 2 banks or one single batch fire bank? I’m just thinking perhaps one bank is going out and it’s actually missing on 2. I have an old school Mac tools spark tester though I’ll bring with meoil makes sense given the age of the engine. But usually water will steam clean the plug. Easy to take them out and spin it after it sits.
On the initial stumble might use a spark gap tester on all four plug wires to see if you are loosing spark. Might just be a carb por choke setting that smooths out when it gets warm. If i recall on my 3.0 two plugs always looked perfect and two always looked black/somewhat fouled. I think ends were fouled, and middle cyl were ash grey. Never could make that go away ran great after rebuilding the carb and hammered that boat for 20 years. Always amazed how much punishment the 3.0 could take as the kids got bigger and load on the engine when tubing and skiing increased
DDIS I thought was distributor less with a coil pack individual coils for each cylinder, there was a sawed off distributor base that drove the oil pump and was the trigger for the spark , essential a crank position sensor, an amplifier module and the coil pack were on back of stbd side of engine above starter1-3 were slightly tan not perfectly steam cleaned white like I would expect. 4 was black. It now has 4 new plugs. I can’t remember the number but I looked it up and same number AC Delco that came out. I’ll have to check the plugs when I get to the boat this weekend.. this engine has DDIS with the single coil. Is the DDIS coil 2 banks or one single batch fire bank? I’m just thinking perhaps one bank is going out and it’s actually missing on 2. I have an old school Mac tools spark tester though I’ll bring with me
It has the crank sensor, an ignition controller box and the one coil with 4 posts on it. I just don’t know how many connectors it has. I’m wondering if it’s a waste spark systemDDIS I thought was distributor less with a coil pack individual coils for each cylinder, there was a sawed off distributor base that drove the oil pump and was the trigger for the spark , essential a crank position sensor, an amplifier module and the coil pack were on back of stbd side of engine above starter
I had this on my 3.0, merc only used it for A handful of years before going to delco est . Issue is with DDIS even years ago all the parts were NLA, so only choice is to got to est. I never had an issue even plug wires were original at 25 yrs old.