2012 VP 300 C-A Exhaust manifolds getting too hot - DTC 441 & 442

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,064
Would my IR temp be as good as using the Diacom? I have to take my laptop into the cabin to be able to read it. Kind of a PIA. IR temp gun is a lot easier.
yes
 

Donald0039

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2022
Messages
324
Would the coolant temp dash gauge show the same or close to the same temp as the IR temperature gun reading the exhaust manifold?
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,064
Would the coolant temp dash gauge show the same or close to the same temp as the IR temperature gun reading the exhaust manifold?
Normally they are close. But one of the screen shots of Diacom you posted showed engine coolant temp 85° and EMWT 224°. So you will need to monitor where the problem is.
 

Donald0039

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2022
Messages
324
Well running the engine at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes seems to have purged the air out of the system. Ran the engine today in the water for 20 min at 1500 RPM and no overheating. Both exhaust manifolds stayed around 170F.

Of course the directions on the expansion tank say exactly what needs to be done but they were in small print, hard for me to read.

So problem is resolved.
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,064
Great!
Thanks for the follow up ---- it's sure to help others.
 

Donald0039

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2022
Messages
324
I finally got the workshop manuals for my engine. I ordered them from Volvo Penta and they were shipped from Sweden. You would think Volvo Penta would stock them in the USA.

The Seloc manual is worthless compared to the Volvo Penta workshop manuals.
 

mvn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
202
Been following this topic since the beginning and have a comment regarding the availability of Volvo VCS coolant. My V6-280-M is also a closed system and I wanted to get some Volvo coolant to keep on hand to top up the expansion tank just in case. I have not been able to find any.

I passed by a Volvo heavy equipment dealership one day and stopped in to visit their parts desk. Low and behold, they carry yellow Volvo VCS coolant!

In my search, Fleetguard by Cummins also carries an equivalent call ES Compleat OAT (see attached).

Mark
 

Attachments

  • LT36262 Coolant Cross Reference Brochure NEW.pdf
    457 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:

Donald0039

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2022
Messages
324
Been following this topic since the beginning and have a comment regarding the availability of Volvo VCS coolant. My V6-280-M is also a closed system and I wanted to get some Volvo coolant to keep on hand to top up the expansion tank just in case. I have not been able to find any.

I passed by a Volvo heavy equipment dealership one day and stopped in to visit their parts desk. Low and behold, they carry yellow Volvo VCS coolant!

In my search, Fleetguard by Cummins also carries an equivalent call ES Compleat OAT (see attached).

Mark
Yes I recently found out about Fleetguard yellow OAT coolant as a direct replacement for VP VCS. That means (I think) you can top off with Fleetguard yellow OAT.

What is your winterization plan?
 

mvn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
202
1. Stabilized fuel
2. Changed engine oil and filter cartridge.
3. Ran 1 gal of 50:1 2-stroke premixed fuel to lubricate fuel pumps and injectors.
4. Changed fuel filter.
5. Changed sterndrive gear oil.
6. Drained raw water and flushed raw water side with pink antifreeze.
7. Lowered Drive to full down position.
8. Greased prop shaft splines,
9. Removed batteries and placed on battery tenders.
10. Acid washed hull then washed and waxed.
11. Detailed interior.
12. Drained bilge including tray under engine.
13. Wrapped boat with storage cover and poly tarp.
14. Patiently waiting for spring.

Mark
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,561
1. Stabilized fuel
2. Changed engine oil and filter cartridge.
3. Ran 1 gal of 50:1 2-stroke premixed fuel to lubricate fuel pumps and injectors.
4. Changed fuel filter.
5. Changed sterndrive gear oil.
6. Drained raw water and flushed raw water side with pink antifreeze.
7. Lowered Drive to full down position.
8. Greased prop shaft splines,
9. Removed batteries and placed on battery tenders.
10. Acid washed hull then washed and waxed.
11. Detailed interior.
12. Drained bilge including tray under engine.
13. Wrapped boat with storage cover and poly tarp.
14. Patiently waiting for spring.

Mark
What does this have to do with the OPs thread? Please do not hijack threads
 

Donald0039

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2022
Messages
324
1. Stabilized fuel
2. Changed engine oil and filter cartridge.
3. Ran 1 gal of 50:1 2-stroke premixed fuel to lubricate fuel pumps and injectors.
4. Changed fuel filter.
5. Changed sterndrive gear oil.
6. Drained raw water and flushed raw water side with pink antifreeze.
7. Lowered Drive to full down position.
8. Greased prop shaft splines,
9. Removed batteries and placed on battery tenders.
10. Acid washed hull then washed and waxed.
11. Detailed interior.
12. Drained bilge including tray under engine.
13. Wrapped boat with storage cover and poly tarp.
14. Patiently waiting for spring.

Mark
Do you use an electric pump to pump in the pink antifreeze?
 

mvn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
202
I gravity feed the pink into the engine bay flush connector/hose with the engine at idle with the Quick Drain closed.

Afterwards, I open up the Quick Drain and drain everything out.



Mark
 
Top