2006 Yamaha F150 wont turn off

[cluless74]

I have a 2006 Yamaha F150 wont cut off when key is turned to off or kill switch is triggerd also remote trim wont work. I replaced 704 ignition/kill swith and remote trim switch with no resolve. trim switch at motor side works fine. Any ideas???

 

[brodmann]

You've obviously got a wiring problem. I'd start with the ignition switch. I've attached a basic wiring diagram for a Yamaha ignition switch. You need to check the black wire. Make sure it's connected securely at the ignition switch and follow it as far as you can to make sure it's not broken or frayed anywhere.

 

[99yam40]

my guess would be the 10 pin harness between the motor and controller since those 2 things should not be related to one wire

 

[cluless74]

my guess would be the 10 pin harness between the motor and controller since those 2 things should not be related to one wire

I was thinking about this. Just trying to see any other suggestions that may be easier.

 

[cluless74]

You've obviously got a wiring problem. I'd start with the ignition switch. I've attached a basic wiring diagram for a Yamaha ignition switch. You need to check the black wire. Make sure it's connected securely at the ignition switch and follow it as far as you can to make sure it's not broken or frayed anywhere.

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[cluless74]

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this is the one I just put on there. still doing the same thing

 

[boscoe99]

Have you disconnected and reconnected the ten pin harness several times at both ends? Could be some corrosion build up on the terminal pins that are not allowing the ground from the key switch/kill switch to make its way to the motor.

 

[99yam40]

and you can ohm out the harness wires to see if there is a problem before replacing

 

[cluless74]

Have you disconnected and reconnected the ten pin harness several times at both ends? Could be some corrosion build up on the terminal pins that are not allowing the ground from the key switch/kill switch to make its way to the motor.

Done with no resolve.

 

[boscoe99]

Done with no resolve.

Have you checked for continuity between the black wire and the white wire at the key switch panel connector?

Key off = continuity. Key on = no continuity.

Kill switch lanyard pulled = continuity. Kill switch lanyard in place = no continuity.

 

[brodmann]

Not sure if it matters, but the ignition switch you ordered and installed is for a motorcycle! I don't think it will have a "press to choke" feature and I'm not sure what else might be different. Maybe the wire colors are different. Not sure why you ordered a motorcycle ignition switch.

 

[cluless74]

Not sure if it matters, but the ignition switch you ordered and installed is for a motorcycle! I don't think it will have a "press to choke" feature and I'm not sure what else might be different. Maybe the wire colors are different. Not sure why you ordered a motorcycle ignition switch.

 

[cluless74]

I was thinking about this. Just trying to see any other suggestions that may be easier.

I ordered the new 10 pin harness. My only concern is that the one seven pin end is in my case in looks like thes

 

[brodmann]

So far you've ordered an ignition switch for a motorcycle, a remote tilt/trim switch that didn't need replacing and a wiring harness that is not correct. You would have saved a lot of money if you had purchased some test equipment like a test light and a multimeter and started trying to diagnose the actual problem.
First, do you have a lanyard or emergency shut off? Does it work? If not, you'll need a multimeter or an ohm meter. Check for continuity between the back wire on the ignition switch and the negative post of the battery, or any bolt head on the motor. If the ohm meter doesn't read "0" then you have a shorted out ground wire. The easiest fix for that is to either run a single black wire from the ignition switch to the battery, or cut and connect the black wire from the ignition switch to any other black wire in your dash board (after checking for continuity between that black wire and the battery "-" terminal. Continuity means no resistance, or a good "connection". I've attached a couple of images to help you out.

 

[brodmann]

Once your boat cranks up, it runs all by itself without the need for the battery (unless it's a 4 stroke with fuel injection possibly). So, when you turn the key off, all you are doing is grounding the ignition system. I have older motors that are probably much less sophisticated than yours, but the principle is the same. If you have relays on your motor, I'd replace the ignition relay, or you can test the pin on the relay to see if it has 12 volts even with the key off, but I don't know the wiring for that relay. If there's a relay for ignition, I'd take it to a local auto parts store and get one just like it and see if that does the trick.
Good luck and let us know what you find.