2006 Volvo 5.7 osi-d crank no start

woodsy01

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Good for you, well done. As to the rich smell. Marine engines just run rich, now EFI has a electronic choke built in. The coolant temperature unit senses the temp of the engine. If cold the system will pulse a minute more gas (choke) until the engine warms up..There are times this sensor will get flakey and enrich the mixture even if the engine is up to temp. And that can cause unwanted fumes.

Good luck and happy boating!
Thanks, was pretty stoked to see it fire up. So, you dont think I need to be too concerned given no apparent fuel leakage. will the "richness" potentially cause me another blown head gasket ? I dont know how I can change the mix in any case ?
 

woodsy01

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Could be ECT sensor as tailgaters mentioned, also MAP sensor or if your running higher octane fuel then 87
we only get 91 or 95 here AD ...I use the 91. I did replace MAP with aftermarket when trying to find the no start issue initally, might put the OEM back in.
 

woodsy01

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we only get 91 or 95 here AD ...I use the 91. I did replace MAP with aftermarket when trying to find the no start issue initally, might put the OEM back in.
PS, used to have an annoying whine at about 2800 rpm upward, never found it, thinking it may have been intake leak ? rear of the manifold had pretty average looking sealant. pleased to say no whine now :)
 

alldodge

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In your neck of the woods I'm thinking 91 is 87 here, should be good.

The whine may have been the fuel pump having trouble pushing fuel. Usually get a hiss with intake leak and rough idle

To add I would take rich anytime over lean
 

Lou C

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pulling the spark plugs once a year is a good idea just to keep tabs on the fuel mix, important to make sure it's not lean.
 

woodsy01

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In your neck of the woods I'm thinking 91 is 87 here, should be good.

The whine may have been the fuel pump having trouble pushing fuel. Usually get a hiss with intake leak and rough idle

To add I would take rich anytime over lean
Cool, thanks Alldodge. Odd the whine went away after the work I just did, was kind of like a whistle from 2800 rpm upward but no sign of lack of fuel at the time, at least its gone now anyway.
 

woodsy01

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pulling the spark plugs once a year is a good idea just to keep tabs on the fuel mix, important to make sure it's not lean.
yep, might pull them after a good run this weekend and see what's what.
can you adjust the mix though ? on EFI engines.
 

Lou C

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Not in the way as on a carbed engine but lean looking plugs might lead me to have injectors cleaned if not done for a long time and check fuel pump pressure.
What I love about carbs, they are infinitely tuneable, not only that you have choice of Edelbrock, Holley/Quickfuel, or Quadrajet (if you have a good original core like I do) 2bbl, 4bbl whatever you want. Yes they take more time to get right but once you understand them, they are easier to live with because of the wide availability of parts. Much less expensive to keep going.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Tail_Gunner

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Thanks, was pretty stoked to see it fire up. So, you dont think I need to be too concerned given no apparent fuel leakage. will the "richness" potentially cause me another blown head gasket ? I dont know how I can change the mix in any case ?
I missed perhaps the most simple probable cause, thermostat. Stuck open they are a big issue in efi motors, check and verify.
 

QBhoy

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Don’t think it should smell of fuel once it’s warmed up. They do when cold though.
 

woodsy01

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In your neck of the woods I'm thinking 91 is 87 here, should be good.

The whine may have been the fuel pump having trouble pushing fuel. Usually get a hiss with intake leak and rough idle

To add I would take rich anytime over lean
Hi guys, I have continued on this thread as it's a background of course. My motor still smells of gas, not internally but via exhaust. No blue smoke or any smoke at all actually. The oher thing is my oil pressure was perfect last time out and last week the guage went to like 60 psi at idle and higher at about 2000 rpm so it unsettled me. Any thoughts ? Wondering if "gunk" from gaskets got into the oil passages ? I replaced oil and filter straight after the 2 hour test run....was fine during that run. Would a lose wire from sender cause this perhaps ? A bit disappointed after all my hard work to find another problem.
 

Scott Danforth

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Hi guys, I have continued on this thread as it's a background of course. My motor still smells of gas, not internally but via exhaust. No blue smoke or any smoke at all actually. The oher thing is my oil pressure was perfect last time out and last week the guage went to like 60 psi at idle and higher at about 2000 rpm so it unsettled me. Any thoughts ? Wondering if "gunk" from gaskets got into the oil passages ? I replaced oil and filter straight after the 2 hour test run....was fine during that run. Would a lose wire from sender cause this perhaps ? A bit disappointed after all my hard work to find another problem.
your motor has a 55psi oil pump pressure relief. if you run a good 20W50 oil and the motor was cold, your oil pressure will be a bit higher.

60 psi is not a problem
 

woodsy01

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your motor has a 55psi oil pump pressure relief. if you run a good 20W50 oil and the motor was cold, your oil pressure will be a bit higher.

60 psi is not a problem
Thanks Scott, it has always, always been circa 20-30 psi at idle and 60psi at cruise speed. It did get to normal operating temperature on that last run. Is there a danger of blowing something if I run it hard with high pressure ? 60 psi at idle is a massive shift.
 

Scott06

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Thanks Scott, it has always, always been circa 20-30 psi at idle and 60psi at cruise speed. It did get to normal operating temperature on that last run. Is there a danger of blowing something if I run it hard with high pressure ? 60 psi at idle is a massive shift.
Your gauge is probably off best to cross check vs a mechanical gauge. You can buy them for like $25 at the auto parts store
 

woodsy01

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Your gauge is probably off best to cross check vs a mechanical gauge. You can buy them for like $25 at the auto parts store
ok will have a look at the back of the block and see how easy that is, would a lose connection be a possibility ? just seems strange it's occurred after the oil change/head gasket repair. I presume replacing the oil pump is a major ?
 

alldodge

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Don't see an issue with the oil pressure even if it reads higher. I'm higher then that by design but that's another issue
 

Tail_Gunner

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ok will have a look at the back of the block and see how easy that is, would a lose connection be a possibility ? just seems strange it's occurred after the oil change/head gasket repair. I presume replacing the oil pump is a major ?
You've just completed a well done repair, take some time to breathe. And a first for me a oil recommendation, Rotella t4 t6 5/40, marvelous stuff it actually has detergents that will cleanup deposits in old engines. And yes it is diesel oil rated for gas engines as well.

Then there is the Techron injector cleaner, that to works. Both those suggestions may turn your attention to a smooth running engine.

Changing a oil pump? Well the entire engine comes out...and while you there maybe a new waterpump...timing chain and a new chrome balancer. Lol your fine.
 

woodsy01

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You've just completed a well done repair, take some time to breathe. And a first for me a oil recommendation, Rotella t4 t6 5/40, marvelous stuff it actually has detergents that will cleanup deposits in old engines. And yes it is diesel oil rated for gas engines as well.

Then there is the Techron injector cleaner, that to works. Both those suggestions may turn your attention to a smooth running engine.

Changing a oil pump? Well the entire engine comes out...and while you there maybe a new waterpump...timing chain and a new chrome balancer. Lol your fine.
thanks guys, I read that high oil pressure can kill the bearings etc quite quickly so I was scared to go too hard. I dont think we get Rotella in New Zealand. I did change oil brand when changing oil, only thing I can think ( other than guage ) that could have made this change.
 
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