2002 Chaparral 286 SSI

[murrietajoe]

Just purchased this boat and is in great shape with only 180 hours on it. Everything looks great, almost like new, including the motor, 5.0 Volvo outdrive.
I wasn't able to test drive but did run with water muffs and let it run till warm, did not overheat.
Any advise, I'm new to chaparral boats and smaller motors.
Thanks in advance!

 

[alldodge]

Welcome
Chap is a good looking boat, but if the motor doesn't run it's a POS. Look after the motor and everything else is good

 

[nola mike]

Just purchased this boat and is in great shape with only 180 hours on it. Everything looks great, almost like new, including the motor, 5.0 Volvo outdrive.
I wasn't able to test drive but did run with water muffs and let it run till warm, did not overheat.
Any advise, I'm new to chaparral boats and smaller motors.
Thanks in advance!

advice would have been to water test it, running on muffs is worthless. is that a 186?

 

[Scott Danforth]

in 2002 you can have a carbureted motor or TBI injection on the 5.0

you will want the manuals for your motor, induction system, and drive

Manuals & Handbooks | Volvo Penta US

Workshop manuals, owners manuals and service protocols for your engine. Get your manual and service protocol here.

www.volvopenta.com

a 20 year old boat with only 180 hours means that the boat sat for many many years. usually with a new boat, it gets used 30-50 hours the first year, about 20-40 hours the second year. the worst thing that can happen to a boat is lack of use and low hours. usually no one does the required maintenance

average use is 50-100 hours per year

First thing to do is change the impeller and bellows, do a full fluid change, pull the drive and inspect the alignment/u-joint/gimbal.

on the VP, the recommended service intervals off the top of my head (consult the factory service manuals)

bellows change interval is every few years. drive maintenance / alignment / u-joint inspection is every 100 hours or annually. impeller inspection is every 50 hours or annually, with replacement at 300 hours or every 3 years (which ever occurs first)

 

[murrietajoe]

Welcome
Chap is a good looking boat, but if the motor doesn't run it's a POS. Look after the motor and everything else is good

Thanks for the heads up Mike. Should have done a bit more research, couple questions
What should I watch for?
Is this a Chevy 305 motor?

 

[murrietajoe]

in 2002 you can have a carbureted motor or TBI injection on the 5.0

you will want the manuals for your motor, induction system, and drive

Manuals & Handbooks | Volvo Penta US

Workshop manuals, owners manuals and service protocols for your engine. Get your manual and service protocol here.

www.volvopenta.com

a 20 year old boat with only 180 hours means that the boat sat for many many years. usually with a new boat, it gets used 30-50 hours the first year, about 20-40 hours the second year. the worst thing that can happen to a boat is lack of use and low hours. usually no one does the required maintenance

average use is 50-100 hours per year

First thing to do is change the impeller and bellows, do a full fluid change, pull the drive and inspect the alignment/u-joint/gimbal.

on the VP, the recommended service intervals off the top of my head (consult the factory service manuals)

bellows change interval is every few years. drive maintenance / alignment / u-joint inspection is every 100 hours or annually. impeller inspection is every 50 hours or annually, with replacement at 300 hours or every 3 years (which ever occurs first)

Great info and I’m a boat guy and understand lack of use. Price was right , just hoping motor and outdrive are good. I will change all fluids, water pump impeller, thermostat, all fluids and compression test. I’m not a lover of carbs but bought into it. Couple questions,
Should I go with a 4 blade prop? What pitch?
I’ll go through the drive and inspect the joint and alignment prior to running this year.
End of season I’ll have a real mechanic inspect!
Comments very much appreciated. Thank you!!

 

[alldodge]

Don't change the prop unless it's not reaching WOT max RPM. A 3 blade prop is good, going to a 4 blade can help but also hurt performance. Need to know what current prop is doing and not doing before even thinking of changing

 

[murrietajoe]

Great info and I’m a boat guy and understand lack of use. Price was right , just hoping motor and outdrive are good. I will change all fluids, water pump impeller, thermostat, all fluids and compression test. I’m not a lover of carbs but bought into it. Couple questions,
Should I go with a 4 blade prop? What pitch?
I’ll go through the drive and inspect the joint and alignment prior to running this year.
End of season I’ll have a real mechanic inspect!
Comments very much appreciated. Thank you!!

Hoping it’s tbi, not sure yet. Picking up boat Friday. Will report back. Great info and love this site!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Actually on a boat, you want simple. Fred Flintstone fix with a wooden club simple......A carb not only is cheaper than EFI, it's easier to repair and parts are available (unlike many 20 year old TBI or EFI motors). And no, EFI does not have better economy or power

A +1 on not changing the prop

 

[murrietajoe]

Simple is better! I thought efi tbi was better not because of power but not prone to flooding out/problems starting. Please let me know for knowledge. Thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

Simple is better! I thought efi tbi was better not because of power but not prone to flooding out/problems starting. Please let me know for knowledge. Thanks

EFI is ok, until a simple issue makes it not OK.

Never had a maintained carb flood out. Never had starting problems (and I do not run a choke)

 

[nola mike]

I mean, a carb *definitely* isn't as easy to start as FI. Mine is known for draining the fuel bowl after a while, so to not have my boat act like it looks I need to run the fuel pump manually. Most carbs have a personality; they need to be pumped a certain number of times, throttle set in a certain position. Different depending on the carb. FI you turn the key and it starts on the first crank. FI benefits seen in a car aren't there in a boat; there is no partial throttle cruising, varying load (mostly) or frequent fluctuations in throttle. Additionally, until recently marine applications didn't have o2 sensors and so didn't run closed loop, so the benefits of precise a/f mixture also isn't there. Biggest reason not to get TBI or EFI though is cost and complexity. Many NLA parts or proprietary to VP/Merc, diagnostic equipment is expensive as well (no OBDII interfaces). Replacing the whole system in a carbureted engine is the price of a new carb (almost never necessary). Otherwise it's a $50 rebuild kit and an hour or 2 to rebuild the carb.

 

[murrietajoe]

I mean, a carb *definitely* isn't as easy to start as FI. Mine is known for draining the fuel bowl after a while, so to not have my boat act like it looks I need to run the fuel pump manually. Most carbs have a personality; they need to be pumped a certain number of times, throttle set in a certain position. Different depending on the carb. FI you turn the key and it starts on the first crank. FI benefits seen in a car aren't there in a boat; there is no partial throttle cruising, varying load (mostly) or frequent fluctuations in throttle. Additionally, until recently marine applications didn't have o2 sensors and so didn't run closed loop, so the benefits of precise a/f mixture also isn't there. Biggest reason not to get TBI or EFI though is cost and complexity. Many NLA parts or proprietary to VP/Merc, diagnostic equipment is expensive as well (no OBDII interfaces). Replacing the whole system in a carbureted engine is the price of a new carb (almost never necessary). Otherwise it's a $50 rebuild kit and an hour or 2 to rebuild the carb.

Great info. Thanks for the insight!

 

[murrietajoe]

EFI is ok, until a simple issue makes it not OK.

Never had a maintained carb flood out. Never had starting problems (and I do not run a choke)

My days with carburetors was in the 1970’s in cars,, in high school and college days. No money, run it like you stole it. Lack of maintenance. Guess that’s what gave me a bad taste for carbs. Rethinking now!! Thanks

 

[FireBob462]

Congrats that is a nice boat. I always replace all fluids and impeller when I purchase a new boat. I just recently bought a 2008 Larson 180 with 65 hours. I agree with Scott that, like vehicles, low mileage or hours can actually be worse than high hours or mileage. For me it wasn't to bad but I did have hoses fail, water pump seal fail, and the power steering cooler fail in the first 30 hours I put on her. I think we are through the most of it now but my advice would be to stay on top of any potential fluid or seal leaks for the next while. Enjoy your new vessel!

 

[murrietajoe]

Congrats that is a nice boat. I always replace all fluids and impeller when I purchase a new boat. I just recently bought a 2008 Larson 180 with 65 hours. I agree with Scott that, like vehicles, low mileage or hours can actually be worse than high hours or mileage. For me it wasn't to bad but I did have hoses fail, water pump seal fail, and the power steering cooler fail in the first 30 hours I put on her. I think we are through the most of it now but my advice would be to stay on top of any potential fluid or seal leaks for the next while. Enjoy your new vessel!

Great advice! So far I’ve changed the motor oil, outdrive oil, impeller, thermostat. My boat is still in quarantine, Friday I’ll have it inspected, hope my first run is good! I will keep up with all problems as they arise. Hoping for the best, but I do plan on having some issues, hope nothing major!

 

[drewm3i]

Post pics!

 

[murrietajoe]

Pics of my new (to me) chaparral!

 

[murrietajoe]

Post pics!

BTW drewm3i, thank you for your service SIR!

 

[murrietajoe]

I can’t figure out how to give it throttle without engaging the drive.
I have a soft button where the shifter/ throttles located. I can’t get it disengage from the drive. Help anyone! Boats out of quarantine today. I did get it started on idle but…