We had a IR thermal gun and we compared the temps on hoses and manifolds on idle and on the run - could not see any major differences between two identical engine.Plenty people are more experienced with boats and marine exhaust manifolds than me but I do know a lot about fuelling/mixture.
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I'd need to re-read the thread to remind myself if your boat has one or two engines. If the see-thru hose test didn't reveal anything and if it had two engines I'd be taking the manifold off the other engine to put on the engine that cracks manifolds and putting a new manifold on the other engine, see if a new one cracks on the good engine. Seems more like inconsistent water flow to me though, but like I say others have more experience with boats.
Definitely sure it doesn't get hot in the area where it cracks, maybe when you're driving the boat and can't keep a hand on it to monitor the temperature? Even if it got very hot when driving, if you had to come from the helm to put a hand on the engine after driving it could be enough time for water to enter the manifold and cool it before you do the hand temperature test.
For a sanity check have you cut the cracked manifold in half to see if the wall thickness ok. Would find it odd from two manufacturers you would get this many bad manifolds but might be worth checking out before you drive yourself nuts...We had a IR thermal gun and we compared the temps on hoses and manifolds on idle and on the run - could not see any major differences between two identical engine.
I have 6 leaking manifolds to shareInteresting video…
The only manifolds I have used were OEM OMC (V6 batwings) changed every 6/7 seasons due to salt water use; and one aftermarket brand (Barr Marine) which replaced the batwings because they were long since NLA. I never had leaks with either brand and the Barr Marine units have been in use for 5 seasons so far, will probably replace in the next 2 years….
No grinder and cutoff wheel? could do it with a sledge hammer/BFH I think just to see wall thickness is not driving this.Hi
I do not have proper tools to open up the manifold However, last time I did not see the crack anymore and build a small testsetup in my back yard - video is added. Also got some pipe and will be replacing the hose going to the bottom of the manifold with clear one on both engines, will get the IR thermal gun back and compare between temps between the engines - it has to be issue with water getting to the right points to cool it down or too much cold water getting there when it is still hot.
Luckily I have two identical engines, so sparepool is available
6 bad manifolds, I would be raising Kain with the manufacturer.I have 6 leaking manifolds to share
Will check tomorrow those too.Seeing some air is ok so long as it's not constant bubbles, which I don't see. Cooling system IMO is ok. Only thing left is the fuel and that doesn't make any since with compression being good all around.
Sorry if this was answered already, but does spark plug number 5 look the same on both motors?
Nope, boat is still in the waterOK I'm not real familiar with the cooling systems on Merc engines but there seems to be a lot of air in those hoses....is this running on the water hose/muffs?
few post up is another video of the crack test prior the sledgehammer test, I have used two different manufactures with same results and all the rest of the manifolds are from RecMar. Sierra is another brand used.Old Manifold
That looks very thin for cast iron to me but I don't know how thin they usually are.
Maybe small internal changes to a manifold design / casting could cause some designs to crack in a particular area?
Still can't see how any engine issue could cause manifolds to repeatedly crack. There must be many boat owners with same engine who have had head gasket / valve / block / fuel / ignition problems, do such problems often also lead to manifolds cracking?
But the cracking doesn't occur unless you've run the boat at speed... So worth checking coolant flow to manifolds while someone drives the boat? If coolant flow is inconsistent at high throttle loads could understand that cracking manifolds.
Was a picture of a pre-sledgehammer crack posted? Sorry if I missed it.
Already suggested taking a good manifold off the engine that doesn't have a problem and putting it on the engine that does have a problem, fit the new manifold on the engine that doesn't have a problem. See if the new manifold cracks on the good engine / if the good old manifold does crack on the bad engine.
I see that video now thanksfew post up is another video of the crack test prior the sledgehammer test, I have used two different manufactures with same results and all the rest of the manifolds are from RecMar. Sierra is another brand used.
switch to getting manifolds from BARR or Osco or Mercruiser.few post up is another video of the crack test prior the sledgehammer test, I have used two different manufactures with same results and all the rest of the manifolds are from RecMar. Sierra is another brand used.