2002 5,7 Mercruiser exhaust manifold keeps cracking - 5 times this summer

mart284

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Anyone selling a good engine in Estonia? Even Europe would be a good spot :) Shipping from US is not too cheap:(
 

Lpgc

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Anyone selling a good engine in Estonia? Even Europe would be a good spot :) Shipping from US is not too cheap:(
It's not an engine that's broken though, just the marine exhaust manifolds that keep cracking?
 

Lpgc

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Been a few months since I last visited this forum, not much boating at this time of year here in England lol.

I wonder if - While the engine(s) under load the marine manifold gets warm/hot, perhaps not even excessively hot, maybe no hot patches. But then if you come off the throttle suddenly the fuel injected engine goes into over-run mode like a car engine under the same conditions would. There is a difference between over-run with the engine still injecting fuel so still firing and heating the exhaust and an engine that goes into over-run mode and stops injecting fuel thus suddenly stopping heating the exhaust. I don't know but might guess that the marine version isn't supposed to do over-run mode to prevent thermal shock to the marine manifolds. Picking at straws, I don't know if you suddenly come off the throttle or decrease throttle very slowly when the fault occurs.

I think at this point if you're going to persevere (and I don't see what choice you have other than fitting a different engine that uses a different marine manifold) I'd be thinking about fitting multiple temperature sensors to the marine manifold, at least say 5 temp sensors spaced across the length of it. Such temporary setup doesn't need to be very expensive, can buy thermistors for around £1 each and thermal glue them to the manifold, wire them all to the battery via a resistor, wire them all to earth, wire a separate multi-meter to the sensor side of the resistor that connects to battery voltage, then you have 5 separate temp readings. You can buy a cheap multimeter for £10 but you'd need 5. You'd get an idea of multimeter voltage readings versus actual temps by first testing with them wired up to battery voltage in a pan of water as you heat it while monitoring the temperature using any type of thermometer. This would surely show what was happening regards temperature of the manifold.
 
Last edited:

cyclops222

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8 pages.
Take the manifold off of the good engine. Put it on the bad engine.
If it cracks ? Replace engine cylinder head ?
It could be a cylinder that is in trouble. Or the valve gear lifters. Rocker arms. Something.
 

mart284

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I have two engines with 4 manifolds - only one of them is cracking. Last one did two trips and is broken again. Two different manufactures.
We used the thermal gun to measure temps on the run and on idle, no major differences between manifolds or engines. Also added see thru pipes to see if the water was flowing. There is no heat issues on the outside of the manifold and based on the visual water flow, it should be fine as well. I have currently both manifold off and I can put the used old one from left to right:)
engine block is not bent - will check this also once more, all kind of pressure test done, all perfectly good.
injectors tested -all good
Valves tested
 

cyclops222

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Are you using different manufacturers ? Or the same brand everytime . I keep thinking a bad casting of every manifold.
Different manufacturers means EXACTLY THAT.
NOT the same manufacturer selling to lots of your local sellers.
 

mart284

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Are you using different manufacturers ? Or the same brand everytime . I keep thinking a bad casting of every manifold.
Different manufacturers means EXACTLY THAT.
NOT the same manufacturer selling to lots of your local sellers.
Like you mentioned earlier, 8 pages and hard to read and understand:) However - previous post stated that different brands are used, means one was done by Recmar and another one was done by Sierra. Both different castings forms.
 

Lou C

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different manifolds, different manufacturers, but the common element is the same cylinder head, correct?
I know we discussed this but you did put a mechanic's straightedge across the exhaust ports, they all line up correct?
What about the threads in the cylinder head for the manifold bolts, are they all the same depth, and do the bolts all thread in the same depth? Anyone run a thread chaser thru them to make sure?
 

mart284

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different manifolds, different manufacturers, but the common element is the same cylinder head, correct?
Yes, always the same side
I know we discussed this but you did put a mechanic's straightedge across the exhaust ports, they all line up correct?
Yes - this was straight, we will check once more as it is easy to do now
What about the threads in the cylinder head for the manifold bolts, are they all the same depth, and do the bolts all thread in the same depth? Anyone run a thread chaser thru them to make sure?
That we have not done, but all bolts go tightly and they feel like they are fine, but worth to check, as I do not have any other ideas...

thank you!
Märt
 

cyclops222

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IT takes a HUGE thermal shock to cause Cast Iron or Aluminum manifolds to crack.
Last test !! Buy another manifold from a supplier you bought from and then cracked. Put it on the GOOD engine. Drive same way. Will tell us about what is at fault. Engine or manifolds.
 

alldodge

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Take the manifold off of the good engine. Put it on the bad engine.

I have currently both manifold off and I can put the used old one from left to right:)

These comments are only thing that have relevance
Spit balling is good so long as the OP doesn't have to keep repeating the same info already stated
 

mart284

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IT takes a HUGE thermal shock to cause Cast Iron or Aluminum manifolds to crack.
Last test !! Buy another manifold from a supplier you bought from and then cracked. Put it on the GOOD engine. Drive same way. Will tell us about what is at fault. Engine or manifolds.
I do have 2 (two) engines and during my time all 4 of the manifolds are changed - all of them are from RecMar and are working fine (minus the always broking one). Whole last summer I had issues with one side of the one engine, did swap the manufacturers, but I did not put the used working one to that bad side - will do that now. I am pretty sure that issue is not linked with manifold quality, but linked to excessive heat or sudden coldness or both of them is some sort of order. I can not figure out what is causing it to heat or cool differently from the other side or other engine. Beauty of 2 identical engines is a possibility to swap parts without the need to buy them :)
Hopefully in late April I can go back to water and see if anything helped...
 

mart284

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After not finding anything else, one (last) idea came: valve springs :) Will swap those for new ones.
Doctor AI gave this out:
  • Reduced Power & Overworking the Engine – If the engine struggles to produce power due to valve issues, you might push it harder to maintain performance, leading to increased heat generation.
  • Valve Float at High RPMs – If the springs are too weak, the valves may not close properly at higher RPMs, causing inefficient combustion and overheating from excessive fuel burning.
I do have a issue over 2500 RPM and throttle is way more open to reach same RPM with other engine. Head we checked and everything refurbished - with new springs, it can not be issue with valves anymore.
2025-03-06 15.40.09.jpg
 

04fxdwgi25

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Interesting. What's going on with this valve seat (circled). Looks like it isn't installed correctly or the head has been ground too deep for it.. Gotta zoom in pretty good to see it.

1741599613186.png
 

alldodge

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Looks to me all the intakes are recessed further then the exhaust, and that could be normal due to valve lift. Intake lift is greater then exhaust
 

kenny nunez

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One thing that that was mentioned how the “problem” engine‘s power was less than the other needing more throttle. Since these engines were rebuilt at some time I wonder if the combustion chamber’s volume is larger lowering the compression.
Do all the heads have the same casting number?
 

04fxdwgi25

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yes would agree it looks recessed significantly
Yeah, zoom in real close and look at it. I would be sending to shop to see if it was any good.
Looks like seat isn't touching casting in a spot. Could be the pic.

Never had a valve job done that looked this bad.

1741682856022.png
 
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