2000’s Bayliner 175 I/O

matt167

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Sep 27, 2012
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I didn’t get out boating last year. Never worked on my big StarCraft and never got the little one out even once. The big StarCraft needs the outdrive hooked up and a bunch of wiring. I’ve been seeing Bayliner 175’s pop up in the marketplaces in the $3-5k range with the $5k boats looking pretty nice ( for a run of the mill bowrider ). Were they wood free solid worthy boats by 2007-2008? I’m curious because they seem so cheap. There’s actually a 2010 in the $5k range and an ‘08 that looks practically new for like $4500.
 

Pmt133

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I think the wood free models were later. That being said... they are "cheap" in the sense that when new they were ~10k new if memory serves.

My local sams club had one for a give away years ago, same era. Everyone and their mother let their kids climb all over the thing. It held up real well to that. It wasn't show stopping or of insane quality... but it was put together well enough, looked decent, and the materials were good enough. It's of comparable quality of anything else of that segment imo.

I did look at them for something to get out on while I was restoring the 84. 3.0l carb and alpha... about as bullet proof as an engine/drive combo comes.
 

matt167

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Sep 27, 2012
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I would look at a good aluminum hull, and forget the cheap glass hulls.
Have actually 2 since all I really like is StarCraft. Problem is big boat still needs a laundry list including paint, wiring , some assembly and tidying the back to back lounge seats need new plywood framing. comes down to cost vs enjoyment time. I’m not really sold on either idea, but my 14’ is ready to go at any given moment as it’s already restored and repowered. It’s just… small
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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Having resurrected a well abused 1965 18'Starcraft 110 HP I/O...like sat half submerged in a marina for who knows how long...... The Starcraft and similar aluminum boats are easy to work on. Deck is plywood but easily removed. Transom probably not a problem but mine was and wasn't a problem to replace even with it being an I/O.

The under deck insulation is closed cell styrofoam sheets and didn't need to be replaced as they weren't waterlogged. All the stringers and supporting structure (except flotation) is aluminum so there is no problem with rotting there. The engine had yellow oil and I removed the engine from the boat (working alone and quite an undertaking but I did it) and metallic glued the crack in the middle of the engine block (JB weld)....which held for many years with out failure. Machine shop redid the head. Inspected the engine interior and didn't have to replace any parts.

Removed the outdrive and more JB weld on corroded aluminum parts so that gasket surfaces were adequate to hold a gasket and not leak. Redid the CV joint in the drive line. May have added some new bearings in the drive line. Replaced some parts in the shifter and clutch dog and seals in the LU.
Getting the bare hull sand blasted and painted plus getting the trailer disassembled and hot dip galvanized were a couple of interesting challenges but it all worked out.

The boat was perfect for the big, wind driven lakes around here and I really enjoyed it. If it had the 140 4 cyl Ford-Chevy conversion and PTT rather than just tilt, I would really have enjoyed it and would probably have kept it.
 

southkogs

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In '02 they weren't wood free. But I know that the construction methods had improved by then. My 02 started life as a dock boat up in Michigan, but it's been garage stored since I moved it to Tennessee.

For me, it's been a fine boat. Fit and finish is what you would expect out of an entry level boat. But it performs well enough.
 

matt167

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Sep 27, 2012
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What year did they become wood free?

Big StarCraft probably needs 40 hours of work to really be ready but if I omit the paint and fixing seats, half that probably. Little StarCraft just needs to be gone through as it wasn’t used last year
 
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