1997 Bayliner Carpi 2052 deck rot help

mankorn427

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Aug 27, 2017
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6
Ok so i have a capri 2052 with deck rot. I bought the boat cheap like $250 cheap with trailer and both titles. I've started ripping up the rot and have questions. I've searched and found similar posts but I feel like I'm not finding answers I need. The boat has sat for a few years with leaves in it I'm assuming caused the rot. The hull and transom feel and sound solid. What I'm wanting to do with this is make it safe and get some use maybe a season or two and maybe upgrade it to a bigger boat with bigger cabin. So my questions are should i remove the seat bases or does the floor decking meet the bases outer edge? Also when I remove the wet foam should I replace it with more foam? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I wanted to upload photos but I dont see an option to let me attach any photos
 

garbageguy

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May 8, 2012
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1,643
Get a couple more posts in (you need 3), and post some pics. If the deck is rotted, you"ll likely need to re-store stringers and transom. Lots of discussion on that in here
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
If you haven't found those answers then you haven't read too many threads on rebuilds, search "rot bayliner" or something similar, you should have a few weeks worth of reading.

​The foam is up to you, if you like to stay afloat when something goes wrong when out in the lake, then you need to use some type of flotation.

​The floor is just the first place you tend to notice the rotten wood, you'll typically find much more as you rip things apart, so it's best to get it all apart and then make a plan as to how much work needs to be done.
 

AShipShow

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Jul 8, 2016
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If you got the boat for $250 bucks its probably because the previous owner already googled "bayliner rot" as ondarvr mentioned lol.. You most likely have a lot of work on your hands.. I'm in the middle of my own "bayliner rot" restoration right now, however I already knew about the problem before I bought the boat, so I am doing this out of enjoyment and knowing I'll have a good hull for the next 20+ years.

The downside of yours versus mine is your dealing with a cuddy. Odds are you are going to have to de-cap it to get at everything you need to get at. While initially its more of a pain, it will make your live easier when dealing with the stringers and transom.

Buy some popcorn and a comfy chair, you've got lots of reading ahead.
 

tpenfield

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:welcome:

If the floor is rotted, then odds are there is more to it. Go ahead and take out the seat bases so you can get the entire floor up. then see what lurks below.

Yes on the foam, but you may need to replace the stringers and bulkheads before worrying about re-foaming.

Post lots of pictures (after you have 3 posts) as that helps with responses. There are instructions on posting pictures at the top of the forums
 

mankorn427

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Aug 27, 2017
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6
thanks on the advice so far. I have seen some posts with pics of bayliner rot some have had the whole floor out and i seen one just cut up to seat bases. I figured at the price i bought it for if its too far and I have to do stringers then Id part it out. It has a running 4.3 and alpha one outdrive and nice trailer. When the weather lets up here and i can let it dry out some I'll tear into it.
 

mankorn427

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Aug 27, 2017
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I forgot to ask... on the seat bases are the just glassed in or would they have hardware and glass holding them in? The small section of foam i pulled showed the stringer looked solid and glass was still amber. I see the boat has a plastic moisture barrier or something like that under the foam and all the water i see with foam is above the plastic
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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as others eluded to.... Im going to tell you. your stringers and transom rotted before your floor.

your looking at a full gut-n-restore, cut out the floor, pull out the soggy foam, cut out the stringers and transom and have at it.

if only your floor was rotten and not the stringers/bulkhead/transom, you would have the only one in history

now that the bandaid is off, post some pics, we like pics
 

mankorn427

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mankorn427

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Aug 27, 2017
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this is a project i hope to have done by next spring. Its been raining alot here in the Tampa area lately so progress on the boat will probably be slow. I will post my pics as i work on it. I appreciate any advice.
 

mankorn427

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Aug 27, 2017
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I did find that some people were using epoxy resin and others used polyester. What is the differences in the two?
 

AShipShow

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Jul 8, 2016
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Mankorn, we basically have the same boat, only difference is yours is a cuddy and mines a bowrider, other than, that, same exact boat. You might want to check out my current resto thread just to see what your getting in to.

I would use polyester, its what your boat was built with and is plenty strong and easier to work with. At the end of the days its your decision, but I like money lol
 

tpenfield

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I did find that some people were using epoxy resin and others used polyester. What is the differences in the two?

Epoxy resin tastes better . . . :D

There are 3 major types that you can consider for the restoration

Polyester - general purpose resin, OK adhesion, somewhat brittle, moderate fumes, sets up quickly so minimum working time, lowest price.

Vinylester - Better adhesion than Poly, Wicked bad fumes, longer working time, slightly more money than Poly.

Epoxy - Mildest in fumes of the 3, best adhesion, longest working time, wicked expensive. Poly cannot be used over Epoxy, so if you start with epoxy, you will need to stay with epoxy throughout the entire project.
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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​While there are differences in the resins, you won't see a difference in the finished product, even the lowest cost polyester resins hold up very well when building or repairing the typical small fiberglass boat.
 

76SeaRay

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Aug 24, 2017
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Good luck, I just started my first resto project as well on a 76 SeaRay, different boat but similar work. I have found that it is actually pretty easy to remove the interior once you find all the screws holding it in place plus you really have to do that to get at all the floor. I removed my interior and put the assemblies in my garage so over the winter I can replace any damaged wood in those pieces and rework the little bit of teak. Much easier and roomier to work on the floor, recommend you consider doing that first just to make is so much easier.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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There literally are thousands of boats for sale in the Tampa area in better shape......

Fiberglass coatings in St Pete has materials
 
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