TBolt V …….. misspoke earlier
TBolt V …….. misspoke earlier
You don't. You're measuring something wrong.When I check continuity from the 2 pinkish wires connected to the voltage gauge to my negative on the battery I have continuity….. I shouldn’t have continuity to the negative?
If the ignition is on, yes.When I check it to the battery positive I should have continuity?
No.Could the mercruiser ignition module have shorted out causing this?
You're still all over the place with your testing. You've had a bunch of specific questions asked that you aren't answering, and keep just checking random unrelated things.This all started when I was running a different pitch prop and the borrowed prop was bent causing a vibration. So I don’t know if the vibration caused this or something else.
Alternator, pur/yel piggy backed the oil pressure switch for fuel pump. Actually unsure of coil (+) connection for cranking, would need wiring diagram for specific on that. I guessed on the carb setup based on provided info, t-bolt n allFrom Alternator or starter?
Check out the diagram I posted. Pur/yel is energized off the starter during cranking and powers the fuel pump. When the op switch closes it back feeds the pump through the p/y wire. Tbolts don't have the resistance wires so always 12v from purple to the coil.Alternator, pur/yel piggy backed the oil pressure switch for fuel pump. Actually unsure of coil (+) connection for cranking, would need wiring diagram for specific on that. I guessed on the carb setup based on provided info, t-bolt n all
So your wiring is buggered. Your oil pressure switch is bypassed. Dangerous.My purple yellow at the starter is disconnected…
My fuel pump is powered by a solitary wire from the ignition switch… it was like this when I bought the boat from PO.
Google can tell you in detail, but basically you test for voltage between 2 points on the same wire/circuit. Put 1 end of your meter on either end of a wire for example, with a current flowing through the circuit. There should be minimal if any voltage measured. If there is that means there's excess resistance between the 2 points. It becomes more pronounced the more current is flowing. So if you measured resistance between the 2 ends with no current flow it might be minimal, but a voltage drop under load would tell you that the connection is still badIs there a written procedure for the voltage drop test?
Not anymore. @kenny nunez is though.Nola Mike are you located inNewOrleans area? If so would you like to take a look at it for me?
Agreed. For some reason I do recall some setups used a pur/yel off the alternator. Carbed setups are becoming rare in my world and I may be mistaken. Most focus these days is on mpi/ec enginesCheck out the diagram I posted. Pur/yel is energized off the starter during cranking and powers the fuel pump. When the op switch closes it back feeds the pump through the p/y wire. Tbolts don't have the resistance wires so always 12v from purple to the coil.