1996 SeaRay 215 Express Cruiser electrical issue

Ed Harris

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 7, 2016
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199
When I check continuity from the 2 pinkish wires connected to the voltage gauge to my negative on the battery I have continuity….. I shouldn’t have continuity to the negative?
When I check it to the battery positive I should have continuity?
Could the mercruiser ignition module have shorted out causing this?
This all started when I was running a different pitch prop and the borrowed prop was bent causing a vibration. So I don’t know if the vibration caused this or something else.
 

nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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When I check continuity from the 2 pinkish wires connected to the voltage gauge to my negative on the battery I have continuity….. I shouldn’t have continuity to the negative?
You don't. You're measuring something wrong.
When I check it to the battery positive I should have continuity?
If the ignition is on, yes.
Could the mercruiser ignition module have shorted out causing this?
No.
This all started when I was running a different pitch prop and the borrowed prop was bent causing a vibration. So I don’t know if the vibration caused this or something else.
You're still all over the place with your testing. You've had a bunch of specific questions asked that you aren't answering, and keep just checking random unrelated things.
 

dubs283

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Jul 27, 2005
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5,322
From Alternator or starter?
Alternator, pur/yel piggy backed the oil pressure switch for fuel pump. Actually unsure of coil (+) connection for cranking, would need wiring diagram for specific on that. I guessed on the carb setup based on provided info, t-bolt n all

Agree with mike that OP is exceeding the range of charging system inspection. Gonna guess OP is getting information overload from multiple sources

Ohms tests on circuits must be static, i.e. no voltage applied in the circuit as it is designed. Ohms test requires only voltage applied from the test meter
 

nola mike

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Alternator, pur/yel piggy backed the oil pressure switch for fuel pump. Actually unsure of coil (+) connection for cranking, would need wiring diagram for specific on that. I guessed on the carb setup based on provided info, t-bolt n all
Check out the diagram I posted. Pur/yel is energized off the starter during cranking and powers the fuel pump. When the op switch closes it back feeds the pump through the p/y wire. Tbolts don't have the resistance wires so always 12v from purple to the coil.


I think everyone agrees that a bad connection is the cause and the best way to find it is a voltage drop test. Even with a bad charging system the boat will run fine until the battery voltage drops
 
Last edited:

Ed Harris

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
199
My purple yellow at the starter is disconnected…
My fuel pump is powered by a solitary wire from the ignition switch… it was like this when I bought the boat from PO.
Is there a written procedure for the voltage drop test?
 

Ed Harris

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
199
Another thing …..my 50amp circuit breaker terminal broke off as I was trying loosen it so I could clean the terminals
So… that is a setback until it comes in

Nola Mike are you located inNewOrleans area? If so would you like to take a look at it for me?
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,362
My purple yellow at the starter is disconnected…
My fuel pump is powered by a solitary wire from the ignition switch… it was like this when I bought the boat from PO.
So your wiring is buggered. Your oil pressure switch is bypassed. Dangerous.
Is there a written procedure for the voltage drop test?
Google can tell you in detail, but basically you test for voltage between 2 points on the same wire/circuit. Put 1 end of your meter on either end of a wire for example, with a current flowing through the circuit. There should be minimal if any voltage measured. If there is that means there's excess resistance between the 2 points. It becomes more pronounced the more current is flowing. So if you measured resistance between the 2 ends with no current flow it might be minimal, but a voltage drop under load would tell you that the connection is still bad
 

dubs283

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Jul 27, 2005
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5,322
Check out the diagram I posted. Pur/yel is energized off the starter during cranking and powers the fuel pump. When the op switch closes it back feeds the pump through the p/y wire. Tbolts don't have the resistance wires so always 12v from purple to the coil.
Agreed. For some reason I do recall some setups used a pur/yel off the alternator. Carbed setups are becoming rare in my world and I may be mistaken. Most focus these days is on mpi/ec engines

We do know for a fact OP has incorrect wiring based on provided info. At this point most info relayed here cannot definitively prove a source for the issue. Its in OP's best interest to acquire the proper oem manual or have an expert lay eyes on the setup
 

Ed Harris

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
199
Update:
Installed new 50 A circuit breaker located on top of the engine beside the slave solenoid.
Everything is back to normal and working as it should.
Ordered the new breaker thru DB Electrical and is the same brand as was on the engine.
Thanks for everyone’s input on this. There are some items I am looking into putting back to original such as the oil pressure switch.
 
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