1996 OMC Cobra / Volvo SX gaskets

[Lpgc]

The boat is a 1996 Four Winns Sundowner 205 5.0 Ford with the OMC Cobra / Volvo SX collaboration setup.

Today I removed the drive and changed the gimble bearing.

Now I need new gasket(s) to refit the drive but I'm not sure what gaskets I need. I have had the drive off and changed the gaskets before but that was over 2 years ago. I forget which gaskets were the correct ones, I bought incorrect gaskets before getting it right last time.

A pic of the transom components with drive removed.



Are the gaskets in this link correct for this drive? https://repowermarine.com/outdrive-mounting-gasket-for-volvo-penta-sx-omc.html . If so do I need any other gaskets?

This is a long running thread I started shortly after buying the boat https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1996-four-winns-sundowner-with-5-0-cobra-engine-and-drive.766501/

 

[Lou C]

Looks like it. That style of drive is just like the Volvo SX so it does not use a gasket between the pivot housing & outdrive like the original dog clutch Cobra does. Only the irregular shaped oring for the water passage area. The 2 orings are for the driveshaft.

 

[Lou C]

I would though coat the edges of the pivot housing & drive where they join together with marine grease.

 

[Lpgc]

Looks like it. That style of drive is just like the Volvo SX so it does not use a gasket between the pivot housing & outdrive like the original dog clutch Cobra does. Only the irregular shaped oring for the water passage area. The 2 orings are for the driveshaft.

Thanks Lou, I wondered what the 2 Orings were for!

I would though coat the edges of the pivot housing & drive where they join together with marine grease.

Yeah I did that last time I had the drive off.

I changed the gimble bearing because it's not been done in my ownership and I don't know when it was last done. A couple of times I've thought I heard a strange noise that could've been a failing gimble bearing. But the old bearing I just removed seems in good condition. The new bearing is a sealed unit, no need to grease it.... Are the sealed units generally considered better or worse than the old type?

Alignment seemed to check OK, the tool slotted through the bearing straight into the engine coupler and I can rotate the tool without much resistance. But I don't know if that's a good enough check, it occurs to me that since the coupler is rubber and the engine hasn't been run for around a month the rubber could have 'taken' / bent into a position where the tool would slide in easily but still be out of alignment when the coupler is rotated - Should I rotate the engine 90 and 180 degrees to check alignment with the coupler rotated?

 

[Lou C]

So when you check the alignment you are supposed to coat the very last part of it that goes into the splines with grease, insert the tool (do not rotated it, put it in straight and pull it out straight) and look at the 'witness marks' the coupler makes in the grease, it should look the same all around. That's what really tells you if it's aligned properly.

 

[Lou C]

PS you can repeat the test with it rotated 90* and 180* but I just usually check it once whenever I have the drive off.
I have not had to change it in YEARS.

 

[Lpgc]

So when you check the alignment you are supposed to coat the very last part of it that goes into the splines with grease, insert the tool (do not rotated it, put it in straight and pull it out straight) and look at the 'witness marks' the coupler makes in the grease, it should look the same all around. That's what really tells you if it's aligned properly.
View attachment 420722

Thanks, that's what I had forgotten.

 

[Lpgc]

I also forgot what type of grease to use on the driveshaft UJ joints... Is it the really thick sticky marine stuff or same spec as used for trailer wheel bearings?

 

[Lou C]

Either will work; I use Lucas Marine grease but ujoints aren’t super picky like wheel bearings are, just keep em dry and lubed and don’t trim it too high unless at slow idle.