1996 - Johnson Outboard - Difficulties Starting But Runs Great

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Aug 21, 2022
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Hi all,

Hoping to gain some further clarification. I just picked up my first boat. It’s a 2003 welded Gregor with a 1996 Johnson outboard. The outboard runs great only issue is it’s tough to start. I pull her about a dozen times before she actually fires up. My first thought was maybe the carb was clogged up since the last owner had mentioned it had been sitting a while. To my surprise carb was clean as a whistle. After a thorough clean I took her back out on the river today only to find that’s it’s still having the same issue. I was thinking possibly not getting enough spark or air flow? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you! BC6694CF-F0BF-47DD-A8B8-B2ED8C49D872.png
 

flyingscott

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Are you using the choke? Are you turning the throttle towards fast as it will go? Pumping the primer ball?
 
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Are you using the choke? Are you turning the throttle towards fast as it will go? Pumping the primer ball?
Pumping the ball tell it’s stiff. Initial start up I use choke, turning throttle between 1/4 throttle to 1/2. Once heated I do not engage the choke but use the same amount of throttle. Weird because it idles beautifully and runs smooth with no hiccups.
 

flyingscott

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Turn the throttle until it stops. Leave the choke on until it actually starts then turn it off. If it has a manual primer pump it once or twice and leave it out until it starts. Don't know what you mean by heats up?
 
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I meant once the engine is warm. And I’ll give it a shot with throttle fully engaged and get back to you once I give it a shot. Thanks for the input this far though much appreciated.
 

saltchuckmatt

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I meant once the engine is warm. And I’ll give it a shot with throttle fully engaged and get back to you once I give it a shot. Thanks for the input this far though much appreciated.
First of all always post model numbers. What is hp on the one? Being a first time boat owner,(not trying to be disrespectful) do you know the difference between a choke and a primer? Each one is different in how you use them. I find new boat owners don't know how to start 2 strokes and it's not the motor itself.
Post model number and then I might be able to tell you the procedure!
 

flyingscott

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First of all always post model numbers. What is hp on the one? Being a first time boat owner,(not trying to be disrespectful) do you know the difference between a choke and a primer? Each one is different in how you use them. I find new boat owners don't know how to start 2 strokes and it's not the motor itself.
Post model number and then I might be able to tell you the procedure!
You do see the pic of the 9.9/15 hp Johnson right? Or the fact he said it's a 1996 in the picture?
 

saltchuckmatt

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You do see the pic of the 9.9/15 hp Johnson right? Or the fact he said it's a 1996 in the picture?
I thought 15 but he did not say it was knor is there a picture of his hp. I did see the year and I looked under that. I saw an electric primer but his looks like a tiller...maybe. I see no helm. Having the entire model number would make it all a whole lot easier. Omc only had the manual primer for a few years because people didn't or couldn't use them right. At least that's what the omc rep told me. Do not remember any manual primers in 96. I also have had some choke issues with those 90 series. It's mounted to the plastic carbureted bowls, the bolt strips out, falling out and then the choke doesn't actually close....but you think it does.
 

909

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Based on the decals that's a 95 Johnson. Difference between the 15 and the 9.9 that year is only the carb and 2 stickers (front and back).

Simple stuff first. Rebuild the carb with an OEM kit and replace everything. Just because a carb looks clean doesn't mean it is . Gaskets, needle, float, jets everything. Brand new and OEM.

If that doesn't work , check your head gasket. My money is on that . It's more common than you think and could be the solution you're looking for.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Based on the decals that's a 95 Johnson. Difference between the 15 and the 9.9 that year is only the carb and 2 stickers (front and back).

Simple stuff first. Rebuild the carb with an OEM kit and replace everything. Just because a carb looks clean doesn't mean it is . Gaskets, needle, float, jets everything. Brand new and OEM.

If that doesn't work , check your head gasket. My money is on that . It's more common than you think and could be the solution you're looking for.
909, the owner states in post #1 that the engine runs great and in post "3 that idles beautifully and runs smooth with no hiccups. He just has trouble starting it. My guess is his settings are incorrect or something is wrong with his choke.
 

RBoyd1971

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Oct 20, 2020
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Did you check the float height? May be low fuel level in the bowl causing hard starting.
 
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First of all always post model numbers. What is hp on the one? Being a first time boat owner,(not trying to be disrespectful) do you know the difference between a choke and a primer? Each one is different in how you use them. I find new boat owners don't know how to start 2 strokes and it's not the motor itself.
Post model number and then I might be able to tell you the procedure!
J15EEDS is the model number of the outboard. And not taking it disrespectfully, choke sits within the carb and when engaged sits closed. I believe the primer is the ball that leads from the gas tank connected to the one way valve which runs to the carb. Could be wrong and please correct me if I am.
 
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Did you check the float height? May be low fuel level in the bowl causing hard starting.
I did not check the float height. Unfortunately haven’t been able to find correct spec height online although it seemed to be functionally properly after an inspection. Which could be vague since I never got a true measurement.
 

flyingscott

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I did not check the float height. Unfortunately haven’t been able to find correct spec height online although it seemed to be functionally properly after an inspection. Which could be vague since I never got a true measurement.
Because people are adding to much information and it is getting muddled. Try the throttle first. Float level is hold the carb upside down and set the float to level. Do not change any gaskets. the fact that it idles well says the head gasket is probably good. If you want to check do a compression test. Your motor is a 1996 model and it has a choke only.
 

saltchuckmatt

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J15EEDS is the model number of the outboard. And not taking it disrespectfully, choke sits within the carb and when engaged sits closed. I believe the primer is the ball that leads from the gas tank connected to the one way valve which runs to the carb. Could be wrong and please correct me if I am.
Yes, primer ball is on the fuel line. Some motors had a manual primer inside the motor instead of a choke....your does not. Like flyingscott says to much info may be messing you up. In my opinion, if it's idling good and running through out the rpm range than it's not the float. Sounds like your choke is working correctly too so not sure why. We have a place on the water and when neighbors can't start their motors often time I go over and start it within a few pulls. Might just take some getting used to.
 
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Because people are adding to much information and it is getting muddled. Try the throttle first. Float level is hold the carb upside down and set the float to level. Do not change any gaskets. the fact that it idles well says the head gasket is probably good. If you want to check do a compression test. Your motor is a 1996 model and it has a choke only.
Gotcha I’ll pull the carb again and try that first. I did a compression test when I originally bought the boat. Compression was at about 90 on both cylinders. Seemed low to me but after researching found that this could be normal.

Here’s my approach to solving the issue:
1. Try starting with throttle wide open
2. If step 1 doesn’t work check float height to ensure it’s level
3. If step 2 doesn’t work replace spark plugs (which I should do anyway)
4. If step 3 don’t work not sure what the heck to do.

I will update you all as soon as I compete my checklist. Stay tuned and thanks for all the support thus far.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Gotcha I’ll pull the carb again and try that first. I did a compression test when I originally bought the boat. Compression was at about 90 on both cylinders. Seemed low to me but after researching found that this could be normal.

Here’s my approach to solving the issue:
1. Try starting with throttle wide open
2. If step 1 doesn’t work check float height to ensure it’s level
3. If step 2 doesn’t work replace spark plugs (which I should do anyway)
4. If step 3 don’t work not sure what the heck to do.

I will update you all as soon as I compete my checklist. Stay tuned and thanks for all the support thus far.
Not sure about step 1. Do you have a start position on your tiller? I would swap 3 for 2.

90 is low but I've seen them run that low.
 
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Not sure about step 1. Do you have a start position on your tiller? I would swap 3 for 2.

90 is low but I've seen them run that low.
So hard to tell since it’s a bit faded off the tiller. See the photos below. The first photo shows a bit of white which lands at full throttle don’t know if this is start position?
 

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saltchuckmatt

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So hard to tell since it’s a bit faded off the tiller. See the photos below. The first photo shows a bit of white which lands at full throttle don’t know if this is start positio


pretty worn but I can see

So hard to tell since it’s a bit faded off the tiller. See the photos below. The first photo shows a bit of white which lands at full throttle don’t know if this is start position?
Pretty worn but I can see it though. Right now your at the shift position. See the arrows on each side of the small circle? Next larger circle is the start circle. Represents a pull cord. International symbols instead of words. That is where the throttle should be especially when cold. Turn it down before you shift to avoid clunking.
 
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