1996 Evinrude Vindicator 200hp--engine keeps quitting on start-up

[KVH]

The wire on my primer solenoid apparently connects using this kind of electrical connector. Can someone please explain how that thing works?

My guess is that the two “fins” at each end are used to secure or hold the piece, and are then are discarded after the wire is soldered into the bullet.

 

[racerone]

Correct.----You cut those off.----Operation of the primer valve has been explained to you.

 

[dingbat]

The wire on my primer solenoid apparently connects using this kind of electrical connector. Can someone please explain how that thing works?

My guess is that the two “fins” at each end are used to secure or hold the piece, and are then are discarded after the wire is soldered into the bullet.


View attachment 394903

A bullet connector with a solderless cup.
Very easy to use and install.

The ends are just casting “flash”. Gets cut off prior to installation on the wire.

They use a ratchet crimp in the video but most Harry Homeowner crimp and strip tools have the necessary crimper built in

How to crimp 3.9mm Japanese single bullet motorcycle connectors

kojaycat.co.uk

 

[KVH]

#15 is the high speed jet.---Calibrated to provide the correct amount of fuel at full throttle.-----Often forgotten / overlooked during cleaning.----Or missing altogether when changing out warped float bowls.

Is that jet located right ahead of the plug—in the same channel? When my float bowls are drained, must that jet be moved or otherwise addressed? My manual says to never push a rod into any of the carb channels or galleys. Is that to avoid damaging jets or needles?

 

[dingbat]

My manual says to never push a rod into any of the carb channels or galleys. Is that to avoid damaging jets or needles?

Yes...I use a set of (welding torch) Tip Cleaners to clean/clear the jets and passages, etc.

 

[KVH]

delete

 

[KVH]

Can I clean out the carbs with carburetor cleaner by spraying into the drain plug after draining excess fuel and oil? Or must I really disassemble those carbs to perform any kind of cleaning?

Also, I realize things will be obvious if I disassemble a carburetor, but I'm confused about that high speed orifice that is located ahead of the drain plug screw. The video didn't really clear it up for me. My manual calls that part an "orifice plug."

When I pull the float bowl drain plug I assume that orifice will be visible, but I'm not seeing a part in my manual for a needle of any king fitting into that orifice. What is its function?

In addition, there's a groove in the back of the orifice plug. And my float bowl plug screw behind that happens to have a flat "screwdriver" tip, but I can't imagine that flat tip for the float bowl plug is supposed to fit into the orifice plug groove--or does it? Can someone explain things to this novice? I do learn eventually.

Thanks

 

[Chris1956]

Your engine likely has the 6 plastic carbs, and 2 three barrel throttle bodies. If so, the main jet (High Speed orifice) is behind the brass plug in the base of each carb. The idle jets are in the throttle bodies, but are adjusted by a needle valve, thru the carb bodies. The carbs should have a side plate.

There is an intermediate air bleed orifice in the carb body that can get clogged as well.

If you think you need a carb rebuild, you will need 6 kits, and to remove and disassemble the carbs. It makes sense to replace the inlet needle and seat, and the floats as well.

Get a workspace set up with the kits and tools, and remove and clean 1 carb at a time. A spray carb cleaner is good, but wear safety glasses to keep it out of your eyes. When it is off the motor, see if you can clean the idle passages. On my '98 150HP Johnny, that are easy to get at, once the carbs are off. Removing the idle needle will require you to adjust all carbs upon reassembly. That can take some doing. I have had luck removing the side plates on the throttle bodies and spraying the inlet needle and passages from there.

A Carb rebuild will not help your issue, if she runs good when warmed up. If she just stalls when cold, you likely have another issue (choke primer, Quickstart system).

 

[racerone]

The orifice plug has a calibrated hole.-----It meters fuel flow.----No adjustment on it.----Special screwdriver ( easily made ) to remove these plugs.

 

[dingbat]

Bear in mind you’re working with plastic carbs with self tapping screws.

When putting a screw back in, I turn the screw counter clockwise until I feel the threads “sync” then start tightening from that point. The last thing you want to do is cross thread or cut new threads, Torque values are in inch pounds if I remember correctly.

Grease is your friend when installing the “spaghetti” gaskets between carb and manifold. A word of caution when installing the carbs back on the manifold, don’t over torque the bolts.

Long story, but a local boat shop cracked the mounting flange on 4 out of 6 carbs. The cracks were not visible upon inspection. Stumbled on to the problem spraying starting fluid on the base of the carbs looking for leaking “spaghetti” gaskets

 

[KVH]

The wire on my primer solenoid apparently connects using this kind of electrical connector. Can someone please explain how that thing works?

My guess is that the two “fins” at each end are used to secure or hold the piece, and are then are discarded after the wire is soldered into the bullet.


View attachment 394903

Instead of using these supplied bullet wire fastening components for the primer solenoid wires, wouldn't it make sense that I just use either: 1) a quality insulated crimp-type bullet connector, or 2) a soldered connection with heat shrink?

 

[dingbat]

Instead of using these supplied bullet wire fastening components for the primer solenoid wires, wouldn't it make sense that I just use either: 1) a quality insulated crimp-type bullet connector, or 2) a soldered connection with heat shrink?

Too much vibration....no solder connections on a boat

No reason you couldn't use a crimp bullet...just larger foot print

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

just to clarify: when the carbs were rebuilt, did they also do the throttle bodies? basically the entire idle circuit depends on the little holes in the calibration pockets in the throttle bodies and MUST be whistle-clean or it wont idle. the little covers with the 2 phillips screws all have gaskets as well, and can get warped or loose, sucking in air making it sneeze and stall from running lean. be sure those are replaced as some kits do not have the correct ones, or the incorrect kit was ordered which works for the carbs, but not the throttle bodies and get ignored.

 

[KVH]

Too much vibration....no solder connections on a boat

No reason you couldn't use a crimp bullet...just larger foot print

Can you tell me why soldering is not recommended with boat vibration please? Just intuitively, that would seem to make it even more important to solder connections together.

 

[dingbat]

Can you tell me why soldering is not recommended with boat vibration please? Just intuitively, that would seem to make it even more important to solder connections together.

Several reasons

Soldering is a skill. It requires training in the techniques and processes few outside the industry possess.

As such, soldering is expense and problematic in the field even for skilled technicians. Crimps are easier to install consistently.

Solder is permitted but cannot be the sole means of making the connection. This is because if the connection can become very hot the solder might melt.

Solder also tends to make the end of the wire into a solid wire as it wicks into the stranded conductors. Metal fatigue causes microscopic cracks in the wires over time leading to intermittent operation, increased resistance, heat buildup and potentially fires.

 

[Faztbullet]

KVH...just slide the insulation sleeve over the wire and break off wings on connector and crimp on

 

[KVH]

OK will do. Thx all—