1996 Evinrude Vindicator 200hp--engine keeps quitting on start-up

[Crosbyman]

if you have wires going to the red handled thinghy it is an electro-magnet driven pump to spit fuel in the engine.

 

[racerone]

These primer valves are very simple.-----Very reliable.-----Used from 1980 to 2005 on motors from 9.9 to 300 HP.-----Lots of good used ones are around.----See post #5.----Yes the mechanic was correct in his explanation.

 

[dingbat]

Yes, thanks, I meant to bypass the carbs and allow direct fuel. And I'll replace the bulb.

But I'm still unclear on the primer valve solenoid. On the Youtube I watched, I note that the narrator says you can bypass the carbs by opening the red lever, then starting the engine, then turning the lever back down to normal running position. Is that the way it works? When I bought my boat ages ago the mechanic at the shop said to open the valve, squeeze the bulb twice, then return the valve to normal, then start the engine. Can you clarify?

Finally, if my solenoid is bad, how strongly do you feel about getting a new OEM valve for $230 compared to an aftermarket one for $60?

Thanks again for the help.

The valve by-passes the fuel pump and carbs dumping fuel directly into the manifold.

Normal operation, you push the key in to activate the solenoid while cranking the
engine.

In theory, the only time you would need to use the lever is when your solenoid dies.

I have to fully investigate, but the $60 solenoid I put in last year appears to have failed already.

Fortunately, I kept the old one (turn out being a bad key switch) and will most likely put it back in service again

 

[racerone]

The primer valve is fed by the fuel pump when the engine is cranking.----Or when the bulb on the hose is squeezed.------And fuel from the primer valve does NOT bypass the fuel pump.---It bypasses the carburetor bowls and metering circuits !----Lots of used factory ( and good ) primer valves are available.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

From what I remember, the red valve is to be used when hand pulling a motor with a low battery. In my old 90 if it was cold....it didn't really work but if even slight warm I could get it running.

Those were the days when my young strong arm could complete the task. Not sure about today or if I ever could get a 200 to start.

Used primers are a dime a dozen in my area.

 

[racerone]

This site does not like it----But lots of used primers in my area too.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Just an example of my ability to get a used motor. It's about 1 mile from my house.

Even if it's dead the parts alone are worth grabbing it. (Port side temp sensor)!

Great northwest has lots of used motors so might be somewhat unfair.

 

[dingbat]

And fuel from the primer valve does NOT bypass the fuel pump.

My bad… it by-passes the fuel manifold, not the fuel pump

 

[racerone]

When you understand how things work , the trouble shooting becomes so much easier.

 

[KVH]

Fortunately, I kept the old one (turn out being a bad key switch) . . .

I'm wondering about my key switch, as well. Since I'm not in the water, I'm hoping I won't need to crank the engine to test the primer valve. Will the valve click when the key is pushed in without turning the key?

 

[Crosbyman]

on some drawings the valve is controlled by a white purple from the key so the key must be ON

 

[dingbat]

Will the valve click when the key is pushed in without turning the key?

No…..you have to turn the ignition on/run (self test sequence) before you can push the key in to activate the solenoid.

If the motor will not start/stay running using the primer manually, a bad solenoid isn’t the problem.

The other thing to check is the filter screen inside to solenoid. Remove the 4 screws from the top of the primer valve to expose the screen below.

Careful removing the cap, if I remember correctly a little spring comes flying out

 

[KVH]

No…..you have to turn the ignition on/run (self test sequence) before you can push the key in to activate the solenoid.

If the motor will not start/stay running using the primer manually, a bad solenoid isn’t the problem.

The other thing to check is the filter screen inside to solenoid. Remove the 4 screws from the top of the primer valve to expose the screen below.

Careful removing the cap, if I remember correctly a little spring comes flying out

Okay. I've got lots of info to go on from here. I'll head back up to the lake and play a bit with the key and solenoid. But I think you're right about my solenoid not being the issue--because I manually bypassed the fuel manifold by using the red lever, and it still wouldn't start. I'm going to replace the plugs and the fuel squeeze bulb, and I'll try to be careful not to flood the carbs this time. I'm also going to drain the carbs more carefully, and tilt the engine when I do, to be sure I really did get all the old oil out of the system. As I mentioned before, only two of the six carb bowls (the two lowest) released any oil/fuel, so maybe there's something to that. Anyway, thanks for the info and guidance. I'll see where I can get on this.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Okay. I've got lots of info to go on from here. I'll head back up to the lake and play a bit with the key and solenoid. But I think you're right about my solenoid not being the issue--because I manually bypassed the fuel manifold by using the red lever, and it still wouldn't start. I'm going to replace the plugs and the fuel squeeze bulb, and I'll try to be careful not to flood the carbs this time. I'm also going to drain the carbs more carefully, and tilt the engine when I do, to be sure I really did get all the old oil out of the system. As I mentioned before, only two of the six carb bowls (the two lowest) released any oil/fuel, so maybe there's something to that. Anyway, thanks for the info and guidance. I'll see where I can get on this.

One thing I do is pull the plugs, run the starter and blow everything out (gas, oil, whatever), inspect the plugs and if they look ok I spray them out, run a stainless brush over them, re-gap them and burn them out slightly with a plumbers torch rolling them the hole time.

Most of the time I clean them, and then replace them only when there physically burnt.

I've have good success when doing this.

 

[dingbat]

I'm going to replace the plugs and the fuel squeeze bulb, and I'll try to be careful not to flood the carbs this time.

Only use QL77JC4 spark plugs.

You can not flood the motor using the primer bulb if your float valves are functioning properly. Primer bulb simply gets hard and stops pumping. If the bulb doesn’t get hard, you have an issue

Would highly suggest you rebuild the carbs if the black gaskets are still in use.

 

[stresspoint]

ha ha , im sitting here wondering why OP is sending more fuel to an already flooded motor 2 smoke , flooded motor = never going to start till there is enough air to bring the mixture to somewhere near enough to fire !.

disconnect power to the coils , pull the plugs , crank over with your finger over the plug holes one at a time " lots of black shyt will come out , .
( on 2 smoke motorcycles i use to hold a lit cigy lighter in front of the plug hole and wait for the bang ).

hook up coils > plugs in > push WOT and crank """ no primmer red lever in normal position "".

when it pops keep cranking till it starts , it will run like crap > feather the throttle till it runs well

remember to hook up the flush ears and have a helper at the ready on the tap so as when it starts it has water flow.

personally i think your needles and seats are gummed up and bleeding fuel , so i would pull the carbs , make sure they are not gummed first before attempting the above.

 

[KVH]

Guys, what is part Number #15 (see below)? High speed orifice? I need to replace a marred up screw plug (#6), but have no idea what that orifice thing is:

 

[dingbat]

Guys, what is part Number #15 (see below)? High speed orifice? I need to replace a marred up screw plug (#6), but have no idea what that orifice thing is:

View attachment 394827

Its a jet
Shouldn't need to replace unless you damaged it

 

[racerone]

#15 is the high speed jet.---Calibrated to provide the correct amount of fuel at full throttle.-----Often forgotten / overlooked during cleaning.----Or missing altogether when changing out warped float bowls.

 

[Crosbyman]

part #15 see video metering around minute 7:05......


old style carbs used pointy needles to adjust fuel supply... these needed to be fine tuned manually.


the jets (orifices) are calibrated and non-adjustable.