1996 115 Johnson Ocean Runner V4 Will Not Idle J115SLEDR

Chris1956

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You realize that the idle passages are in the throttle bodies, right? The side covers can come off to clean the idle passages. Also check the calibration pocket.
 

sguidry

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If it's a looper motor those screws are around 4-5 turns out from lightly seated.
It is a looper motor, I could t find in the manual where it said how many turns out. I was looking last night and the screws are way more than 4-5 turns out
 

sguidry

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Make sure you did not put the plastic washer under inlet needle when carbs where serviced
I made that mistake the first time I had them out. I ran it with them in for one test run out on the water, then I figured out via manual they weren’t supposed to go in this motor so I took them out. Still no change from the non idle issue.
 

sguidry

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You realize that the idle passages are in the throttle bodies, right? The side covers can come off to clean the idle passages. Also check the calibration pocket.
I figured they were in the throttle bodies, I just did not want to start taking stuff apart and not know what direction I was headed. Thank you for that. When I rebuilt the carbs, I did NOT clean these passages. I will be doing so this evening when I get off work. What or where is the calibration pocket? Thank you for the information
 

sguidry

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another question I cant seem to find the answer for. Do I need to perform a link and sync on this motor after rebuilding the carbs? I have also noticed that the throttle lever is kind of hard to move. might I add that the throttle cable and shift cable were disconnected on this outboard when I got it.
 

Chris1956

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The carb has a plate on it's side. That covers the calibration pocket. Carbs also have intermediate air bleed orafice. You probably already cleaned those, right?

Also check the carb bowls for warp. Just put a strait edge on the mating surface. They often warp.

The spaghetti seals between throttle bodies and carbs are a bit tricky. Rub the carb on the throttle bodies to make sure they seat before installing the screws.

If you do not disturb the plastic levers on the upper linkage, I do not think you will need an L&S.
 

sguidry

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The carb has a plate on it's side. That covers the calibration pocket. Carbs also have intermediate air bleed orafice. You probably already cleaned those, right?

Also check the carb bowls for warp. Just put a strait edge on the mating surface. They often warp.

The spaghetti seals between throttle bodies and carbs are a bit tricky. Rub the carb on the throttle bodies to make sure they seat before installing the screws.

If you do not disturb the plastic levers on the upper linkage, I do not think you will need an L&S.
Yes I have cleaned the calibration pocket. When I rebuilt them I ordered 4 new OEM carb bowls because that is what the guy told me they were leaking from and checked those for warpage before I installed them on the carbs. what did happen though, was one of the plastic pieces of linkage broke coming off of the first vertical connecting rod from the shift cable, so I took it off and replaced it with a new one also.
 

Chris1956

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You did swap your main jets to the new bowls?

After you clean the throttle bodies idle passages. You can remove the side cover to do so. Set the idle mixture screws to 5-3/4 turns open.
 

sguidry

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You did swap your main jets to the new bowls?

After you clean the throttle bodies idle passages. You can remove the side cover to do so. Set the idle mixture screws to 5-3/4 turns open.
Yes I swapped the main jets to the new bowls. They did not however come with the high speed orifice jets in the bottom of the bowls, I found this out last night after I took them off again. Surely this will affect running conditions? But would it affect the idle condition? I have been working really late so it is hard to work on it, I plan on cleaning the throttle body idle passages tonight and give the throttle body a good cleaning. and I can reassemble everything tomorrow during my day off. I will set the idle mixture screw to 5-3/4 turns out when I lightly seat them. I will attach a diagram of the orifice jet. it is number 15 on this diagram
 

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racerone

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The high speed orifice plug #15 must be installed for operation of this motor.-----Are you calling the FLOAT VALVE the main jet ?
 

sguidry

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The high speed orifice plug #15 must be installed for operation of this motor.-----Are you calling the FLOAT VALVE the main jet ?
Well I guess I was. what is the main jet? the tube that runs through the middle of the carb?
 

racerone

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The tube that runs through middle of carburetor is called the NOZZLE on these.-----#15 is the high speed jet and even the fuel for the low speed mixture must first go through #15 on most carburetors.
 

sguidry

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The tube that runs through middle of carburetor is called the NOZZLE on these.-----#15 is the high speed jet and even the fuel for the low speed mixture must first go through #15 on most carburetors.
Okay I’m going to try to find a high speed jet for each carb. Then install them. And see what that does. thanks for all your help
 

racerone

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So you threw out the old bowls with the high speed jet ( orifice plug ) stuck in them??----You would not be the first or the last one to make that mistake!
 

racerone

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High speed jets are listed as NLA----So you have to search E-bay / make some.----Or find a size close and modify them.---Not hard to come up with a solution, in my opinion.
 

sguidry

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High speed jets are listed as NLA----So you have to search E-bay / make some.----Or find a size close and modify them.---Not hard to come up with a solution, in my opinion.
Yes that’s what I was coming up with while searching for them. I will most likely end up buying a size smaller that I can find and machine them out at work, hopefully I don’t screw em up.
 
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