1995 Yamaha 130 oil injection lroblem

weslayton

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Jun 26, 2023
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New to the forum so thank you in advance. I have an issue with the oil injection not sending oil to main tank on engine. Emergency switch operates and fills. When the key is turned on the tach shows green for about 8 seconds then immediately to yellow. This has never worked in the 4 years I’ve owned it. Always used emergency switch to putt around. The gauges were inop when I purchased. Recently had them rebuilt and now function correctly, but still no automatic transfer.
 

99yam40

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Sep 7, 2008
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some motors limited auto operation if motor is tilted or if it thinks motor is tilted.
does your trim indicator/gauge work properly?

Does the remote tank level work properly?
If it thinks it is low it will not pump automatically.
 

weslayton

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Jun 26, 2023
Messages
7
some motors limited auto operation if motor is tilted or if it thinks motor is tilted.
does your trim indicator/gauge work properly?

Does the remote tank level work properly?
If it thinks it is low it will not pump automatically.
Trim indicator does work. I have pulled the sensor and moved up and down with no change on the gauge. The gauge was just rebuilt and to my knowledge is working correctly. Rpm’s are shown and tilt indicator seems to be functional
 

boscoe99

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Aug 22, 2013
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The yellow light is telling you that the remote tank in the boat is low on oil. Or the oil control unit thinks that it is low.

When there is sufficient oil in the tank a sensor switch closes due to a float in the tank rising. In which case a ground goes from through the switch and on to the oil control unit.

If for any reason the ground cannot get to the oil control unit, the unit thinks the tank is low on oil. In which case the automatic transfer system stops working.

Get the ground issue fixed and the automatic transfer system will start working again. The yellow light will go out and the green light will turn on.
 
Last edited:

weslayton

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Jun 26, 2023
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I have checked continuity with the harness from the sensor on the remote tank (under console) to its connection under the cowl. No breaks in the line. Where is the sensor switch grounded? Should I check to see that the sensor itself is working and how do I perform that test? The sensor on the main tank (engine) seems to be operating correctly. It throws the alarm when the oil level drops to bottom line on the reservoir
 

weslayton

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Jun 26, 2023
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Thank you for the diagram! Forgive my naive questions here, black/red and black is the circuit i need to be checking that goes to The blue connector under the cowl? From that connection it should ground to the block somewhere, so just follow that and ensure that ground has good connection to block and free of corrosion? Is the switch you are referring to the sensor? Is it possible my sensor/switch is bad? Thank you for the reply.
 

boscoe99

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Aug 22, 2013
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Black to the switch. Black/red from the switch. From the blue connector.

Notice that at a junction point with the engine harness the B/R turns to green/black. G/B to the oil control module and G/B to the oil connector (#25).

The switch referred to is within the sensor switch assembly located within the remote oil tank. Certainly it can fail open.

With the remote tank full of oil you can test for continuity at the sensor switch connection points.

Try this. With the key on, jumper a ground wire from the engine block to the B/R terminal pin in the engine side blue connector. See if the lamp changes from yellow to green.
 

weslayton

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Jun 26, 2023
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Ok, continuity at sensor. Connecting blk/red on engine side to ground with no change.
 

99yam40

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since the tank is full and the switch is closed that indicates the switch is not what is causing your problem.
if you drain the remote tank and the switch opens , that will mean the switch works as it should.
something else is not letting the system know the tank is full.
open wire/bad connection maybe
 

weslayton

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Jun 26, 2023
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Guys! Thank you for all the help. After chasing wires and connections, it ended up being where the blk/red connects to grn/black on engine side of harness. I should have checked continuity from blue connector engine side to the round connecter where the black/grn plug into the oil controller. The wiring was very brittle and fell apart as soon as I tried to remove the heat shrink. Reconnected and light went green!
 

99yam40

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Sep 7, 2008
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sometimes it is a simple thing, and easy to find after you look everywhere else
 
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