1993 GW Invader Rivera 220 restoration: Deck and Stringers

[hangdogger512]

Hey all,
I just bought a 1993 GW Invader Rivera deck boat (w/ Mercruiser 4.3LX, Alpha 1 Gen II)... knowing that it would require some work... but after some digging and some advice from the iboat Mercruiser forum folks... I'm thinking that this might turn into a deck and stringer restoration also. :-( I have never done any glassing on boats, but I'm not worried about tackling the project if it's needed.

Here is what I know (and pictures below):

• The deck has some soft spots, and looks like the PO replaced some of the decking sternside.
• After cutting away some of the decking around the fuel tank... I found that the stringers near the tank have rotted. Looks like condensation from the plastic tank was a primary contributor
• The transom looks pretty solid across, but far on the port side, I can see some discoloration where the wood certainly got wet. Does not look too extensive, but I would certainly like to make sure

Where I could use some help and advice is:

• Where are the best places to drill and inspect the transom and stringers?
• How many locations should I check?
• Drill 1/4" holes looking for rot, and seal afterwards?
• What are the primary "Oh ****" signs? And what are the "needs to be fixed, but can run the rest of the season" signs?

Assuming I find more rotten stringers, then I will plan on a complete stringer rebuild and glassing this fall... I am stubborn and meticulous, so I am not that worried about the time that this process will take, but would love some advice for prep work and budgeting:

• Is there a good method for determining how many yards of fiber I should estimate for, before pulling up the whole deck? And what types? I have read the Sticky's on this page, and have a firm grip of what I need to do, but not how to estimate the project.
• Same question as above, but for resin.
• Knowing that this will be my first attempt at replacing stringers... should I simply match the factory layout?
• Where do you prefer to buy your fiber, resin, and plywood? Does Ground Contact treated wood suffice?

Thank you all in advance for any advice!

PHOTO ALBUM: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm5eNxg1

 

[Scott Danforth]

drill low on the transom and stringers, however you already know the answer......the last thing to rot after the stringers, bulkheads, and transom is the floor.

there is no you can run it for the rest of the season. your boat is over 15 years old and your floor is rotten. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...at-design-life

don on the tyvek suit, fire up the implements of destruction and start gutting

to estimate, carefully calculate the time and money needed......then multiply by 4. for wood, resin and cloth, multiply by 2.5 (your going to make a few mistakes)
for plywood - I use exterior grade Arauco ply from Menards (Lowes and Home Depot no longer carry it)
for resin, I use US composites
yes, follow what the factory did for layout
dont use treated wood.

 

[hangdogger512]

Thanks for the input Scott Danforth

Great writing on Design Life as well... I worked in the bicycle manufacturing world for many years, and design life is something that we discussed quite a bit. I had not even considered that here yet. But, luckily, I probably fit well into the "labor of love" category and enjoy projects for the sake of projects. ...and I certainly don't fit into the category of being able to afford a new boat every few years!

But, advice taken... I'll start gutting this week. :-O

And for a random shop rate question: What is a fair/reasonable going rate to have a shop pull and then re-drop in a motor? I don't have a cherry picker... and the closest service shop to me is quoting $900, which seemed steep to me...

 

[hangdogger512]

Answered my own motor pulling question. I can rent a picker for $50, or buy a Harbor Freight 2 ton one for $200... though it probably wouldn't have the height... or build a rack and buy a hoist... for way less then a $900 shop fee.

Game on.

 

[chevymaher]

Look on you tube. Several guys used cherry pickers. It has been done if the boat on the trailer isn't to high. Lifting the nose of the boat up high lowers the rear of the boat. I did measurements on my boat and hoist. I am not that far yet but it will be close.

Anyway look at what they did and judge yours for yourself.

 

[Scott Danforth]

pull the trailer wheels, put a few 2x4's on the floor to set the trailer hubs on. there....just lowered your boat 10"

 

[ezmobee]

Have you had this boat in the water? The early deck boats had a pretty harsh ride. You might wanna make sure you're going to be happy with it before putting all the time and money into a full restoration.

 

[hangdogger512]

ezmobee Yes, I've had it out a few times already. It actually rides pretty smooth. I think I'll need to do a little balancing work on it, but that would factor into the rebuild. And I'll probably foam it also, to get a little more dampening and torsion stability.

Should I rebuild it... probably not. But I think this will make a great first I/O boat project and first glassing experience for me. Might sell it right after, but who knows.