1992 Stratos 2250 here we go again

[kcassells]

Thanks guys I just got a quote on tank with new size and it half obviously. thats pretty enticing!!!
As to the epoxy its making me look good. pretty easy to work with just a little more time consuming.
On that note my last tab on the transom did not cure everything else did except the bottom of the tab so i pulled it up wiped down with acetone and will see how it is tomorrow.

let's see how it turns out. Once in awhile I do that in a pinch in a small area. problem is the diluted resin in the glass now. Did you maybe go back in after the wipe with a fresh batch of resin? Just wondering. Although you have 2 hands at times feels like you need 6.

 

[ahmincha]

No kc it was still wet sticky this morning so I pushed the boat outside in the sun 70 degrees plus or a few hours, So about 2 hours total. the weird part is that the side on the transom cured. the side on the hull didn't. I did 3 tabs at once and with over lap there was 4 layers. Could that be the problem.

 

[kcassells]

No the tabbing wouldn't be an issue. Typically the resin pulls from each other to soak and bond up. if still tacky and the glass is clear roll some new resin on that area. The heat from the new may cure all of it. Could be other factors that caused the issue. May just be a little pokey to want to cure.

 

[Arawak]

No kc it was still wet sticky this morning so I pushed the boat outside in the sun 70 degrees plus or a few hours, So about 2 hours total. the weird part is that the side on the transom cured. the side on the hull didn't. I did 3 tabs at once and with over lap there was 4 layers. Could that be the problem.

The only thing that will stop epoxy from curing is incorrect mix ratio (or poor mixing but that's essentially the same thing). Even then it will usually harden eventually, but will never reach its proper strength. The epoxies we use should be mixed as close to stoichiometrically as possible, that is having the correct proportion of each side of the reaction. Otherwise you have unreacted parts that haven't cross linked, and don't provide any strength.

Heat helps the reaction along, but unlike polyester which cures by heat, you can never fully cure it if the reaction is unbalanced.

Another pitch here for mixing by weight.... it's easy and vastly more accurate than pumps or premeasured cups.

As to how to fix the problem... I'm not sure. Perhaps another layer after you clean up the dodgy one?

 

[ahmincha]

Thanks for your input arawak. I cut the one side of the tab yesterday and wiped down with acetone. Weird part is it cured in the cup. the leftover.This morning i rolled a thin layer over existing area and when that cures (fingers crossed) I'll re tab

 

[ahmincha]

Ok what I set today (thin coat over what did not set the day before) has cured this is what it looks like now These are where I cut the tab loose that did not cure.
It is all set hard now. Should I grind these areas or just tab over it all its flatter then it looks

 

[Arawak]

Sorry minch, I don't know what to tell you. If it were me I'd be inclined to grind back the hull part 2 inches or so, and then tab over the whole thing. Not sure if that is the right thing though.

 

[Teamster]

Another thought on the 100 gallon fuel tank,...

It might come in handy if you ever want to slip the boat for a 2 or 3 day trip, Wouldn't have to pay dock prices on fuel or pull it out to get fuel,....

Just because it holds 100 gallons doesn't mean it has to be full every time,...

 

[kcassells]

I'd say it looks fine I really don't see a problem at this point. Another tab will probably put you at ease and have that uniform look. Scratch it up if you want for adhesion, little acetone wipe tab and done. You can use an ocillating tool to remove some of the "white" there you don't like or a palm sander, no grinder required.

Ha ha...KFC :laugh:

 

[ahmincha]

Thanks arawak the good thing is the tab under the one that did not cure cured fine. Different batch of epoxy. The last tab was a after thought so I grinded anting that looked suspicious and put a 20" tab 10' each way over the whole thing. Then I rolled a thin coat over the whole transom.
Thanks kfc thats what I did
Teamster I hear you I am probably going to order the original size. thanks

 

[kcassells]

See....you already knew what to do! Good for you. Most times a gut feeling is right.

 

[kcassells]

Perfect!

 

[ahmincha]

Got the main stringers pb'ed in. I had some heavy gaps here and there so I ran my pb straight down to the hull and when that cures I'll go back and cove it

 

[Arawak]

Looking good!

Curious to know how much resin you have gone through so far.

 

[ahmincha]

5 gal . does that seem like a lot

 

[ahmincha]

I have this gimbal housing laying around. there is a crack in the side where the shift cable hooks up. is this worthless?

 

[Arawak]

5 gal . does that seem like a lot

Maybe a bit high I think. But if you've never used it before you tend use more than you need to wet out. The 3:1 mixes I've used are fairly thick too, which makes you want to use more.

I bought 6 gallons (5 resin + 1 hardener). I'm done the transom, stringers, bulkheads, and glassed over the fuel tank. I have about 1.5 gallons left which should be enough to finish the tops of the foam compartment. I've used a bit on some touchups on the console and on a longboard for my daughter. However, my boat is a lot smaller than yours, and my transom is very small even for a 17 footer.

Also, I prefer to use 12oz instead of 17oz (so, 3 layers instead of 2) and it doesn't take much to wet it out. It's nice to work with too... will conform to just about any curve.

It would be interesting to have a poll and see how much resin guys are using for their projects. Might be useful data for someone costing out their project.

 

[zool]

Im just starting my 6th gallon, filleted a double 3/4, 9.5 foot transom, and a 9.5 foot firewall, completed the entire mid ship area, engine hatch repair, stringers and bulkhead, and filleted most of the engine bay. all was precoated. Im about 3/4 done give or take, an im guessing ill use 10 gallons total. 3:1 with 17oz and 8.9 oz eglass for wrapping...I use just enough to wet it...for the areas I want to hide the print, I just make up a fairing mix and skim coat.

 

[kcassells]

I'm in @ 10 gals. But I also removed 3 large fishwells, and rear structure that required removing all bad wood and reglassing. In addition to the;
8' transom
4-8' stringers by 18"
@12-Multiple bulkheads to date
1- 8' keel and glassing substrate of that are.
-PB and other repairs.
But as I moved along I learned alot better how to get more yeild out of the resin.Still have alot to do figure another 5 gals. cause I'm gonna wet out the entire hull rear with glass prior to stringers.
So Guesstimate for mine is @ 15 gals.

 

[kcassells]

Of course there is then the deck......meomioh!