1992 Stratos 2250 here we go again

[jc55]

I guess you'll want to hone in on specific motors. Are you buying new? If you are, your choices become unlimited. (Twin Suzuki 115's would be awesome for weight (401lbs), cost, and reliability). But as I just researched, there's many pros and cons with twin motors. That's why I chose single

You might even research on how moving your tank and batteries forward can change your center of gravity. I found a formula online that helped me figure out that moving 90lbs of batteries forward 9 ft., moved my center of gravity forward 2".

Your transom will handle it. I've seen quad Yamaha 350's on erie. Those dual layer 3/4" transoms will handle 900lbs. I'm weird anyways and would add a third layer and beef up the stringers but totally overkill. Although Stratos doesn't seem very common in that config, you can usually find these types of boats in twin and single configurations.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Just saw your post.
You say re-hab you mean RE-HAB!!!
Remember twin motors don't equal double HP.
My twin 85s don't equal to 170hp more like 125.
Twins mean more weight and fuel usage.
While you got it that far, pull the tank and double check for bad spots.
I did the same job and found a screw that had almost rubbed it's way through the tank.
Another year and I'd be splitting the hulls to replace the tank.

Good luck.
Check out my repower I'm starting soon.

 

[Woodonglass]

Hey, Minch, looks like you're knee deep in alligators...AGAIN!!! I'd Seriously suggest you consider using VE Resin for this build. It's got a lot of the Good properties of Epoxy and 100% compatible with Poly. You could get 5 gals to do the Transom and then use the less expensive Poly for the rest of the build. Just my Old Okie Brain Workin overtime!!!!

 

[ahmincha]

Thanks kc yes I seen all the debates and issues this topic brings
Jc no plan on brand new motors so I do no finding used matching motors would be a problem on there own.
The extra weight of newer motors was why I was thinking of going epoxy
jj I actually did not no that for fact but kinda figured it would not be equal. Only reason I would want twins is boat will be used mainly on lake Erie and having 2 just seems better LOL
wog I actually ended up using v/e on last boat toward the end was buying locally and he ran out of standard. I liked it better then standard seemed to wet out a little easier. (may have been in my head) My thought process is that since I pulled the liner and cap all work underneath will not interfere with the top side thats why I was thinking epoxy. I guess I will price both with shipping and weigh that into my decision
​Thanks to all of you

 

[kcassells]

Well then check out US composites. They have a well rounded variety of epoxies that you can do the math on. The worst of it is freight the best of it no shortages.
I've been very happy with them.

 

[Teamster]

I'd look for a good 250 horse for the main,.....

And a 9.9 or 15 horse for a kicker motor,.........

But , That's just me,..

 

[ahmincha]

Just got off the phone with us composites and the difference in price on 20 gal of ve and 20 gal of epoxy is $270.00. Not as bad as I thought it would be

 

[ahmincha]

Repurposed my last cradle

 

[kcassells]

Just got off the phone with us composites and the difference in price on 20 gal of ve and 20 gal of epoxy is $270.00. Not as bad as I thought it would be

Wow thats not so bad at all. I guess the benefit with VE is you can go back with the gelcoat on deck areas etc. where work is performed vs. paints. On the other note ve has a shelf life that I don't need to think about when I'm doing work. Glad you looked into it.

 

[ahmincha]

little progress not on boat but needed to be done The last picture is the stern do you guy's think i have adequate support

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO...Golden!!!!

 

[kcassells]

little progress not on boat but needed to be done The last picture is the stern do you guy's think i have adequate support

Looks good to me. Nice and tight to/with the form fitting to hull.

 

[jc55]

That's quite some work...do you need to slide the hull forward just a few inches to support the rear transom to hull joint? I'm only asking so that once the stringers and transom are removed, there won't be any sag in the hull. But man, that's a cool set up with wheels and all!

 

[Teamster]

Looks good dude,............

 

[ahmincha]

Thanks for the replies. Thats what I was worried about jc I do not want to move hull forward then the supports will not fit as tight as they do now. I guess I will add some 2x's on edge to catch the transom

 

[jc55]

I don't know, maybe I'm wrong? Maybe the hull structure is rigid enough? Either way, it looks great man.

 

[ahmincha]

I was not sure either so I figured cant hurt to add more support One thing for sure this is much heavier then last build

 

[ahmincha]

Ok for the epoxy guru's I am thinking about using epoxy. But I have a few ? My boat has a liner so to speak so all work I do will be below the deck and not on the deck itself so that will stay as is gel coated topside. So transom stringers and bulk heads will be done in epoxy then I will glue down the liner with epoxy.

Will using epoxy in this manner create any issues do to the differences in flexibility? When using the epoxy is it a longer process wetting out the glass?

I will be doing this in a climate controlled garage should I use 3 to 1 or 4 to one? Anything else I need to know to make a good decision

Thanks in advance

 

[kcassells]

Ok for the epoxy guru's I am thinking about using epoxy. But I have a few ? My boat has a liner so to speak so all work I do will be below the deck and not on the deck itself so that will stay as is gel coated topside. So transom stringers and bulk heads will be done in epoxy then I will glue down the liner with epoxy.


I'm no Guru to say the least and have only used epoxy to date for my rebuild. I have no real comparison to make to poly or ve but they all seem to have a lot of great benefits.

Will using epoxy in this manner create any issues do to the differences in flexibility?
-I do not see that as any type of issue. Alot of rehabs do exactly what you are doing. for the strength.

When using the epoxy is it a longer process wetting out the glass?
-I have read it is but it's the same process. Just need to babysit it a little longer till it gets tacky.@ 1/2 hour pot life and that can depend on temps.

I will be doing this in a climate controlled garage should I use 3 to 1 or 4 to one? Anything else I need to know to make a good decision
-Then I would probably recommend 3 to 1. I did use last fall 4 to 1 for a quicker set up but didn't really need to, still have some left. 4 to 1 might just be too fast and I don't think you need that in a controlled environment. To date 3 to 1 is my fav.


US composites has a total spread sheet in regards to types, uses/applications, pot life etc..I'm pretty sure you already checked that out though.

[SIZE=+1]Description of Epoxy Hardeners[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]All working times(pot life) are based upon an optimum working temperature of about 80 degrees F. Temperatures variations will greatly affect curing times, and when below 65F can sometimes double curing times. Other factors that affect epoxy curing can be moisture and humidity, as well as the thickness of lamination.[/SIZE]
Description of Times Shown [SIZE=-1]Pot Life: [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]Represents the maximum amount of time that the mixture can remain in your pot. Once applied to your working surface(usually in thin layers) this will greatly increase the time you have before the epoxy sets.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Set Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]This is the amount of time after the epoxy is applied in a thin film that it will arrive at a gel state, still wet, but no longer a liquid. To recoat without sanding between coats you must reapply after this point but before the drying time has completed.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Drying Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]At this point the epoxy will be ready to sand and has reached about 90% of its cured hardness. Epoxy still might remain a bit flexible at this point but will complete 100% curing over the following 1-5 days. If air temperature get below 60 degrees, dry times can double from the times shown.[/SIZE]
1 to 1 Epoxy Hardener for Laminating and Coating [SIZE=-1]For Use With Only 150 Thick Epoxy Resin[/SIZE]	[SIZE=-1]Mixing Ratio by Volume:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 1:1[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Pot Life:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 30-35 Min @ 80F[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Set Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 3-4 Hours[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Drying Time: [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]12-14 Hours[/SIZE]	[SIZE=-1]Generally used in combination with our thick resin for an excellent coating epoxy.[/SIZE]
2 to 1 SLOW Epoxy Hardener (#556) [SIZE=-2]Using this hardener provides for maximum working time at high temperatures. Ideal in high humidity conditions and temperatures over 85F.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-2]Should not be used in conditions below 70F unless an extremely lengthy curing time is desired.[/SIZE]	[SIZE=-1]Mixing Ratio by Volume:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 2:1[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Pot Life:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 35-40 Min @ 80F[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Set Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 5-6 Hours[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Drying Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 24-28 Hours[/SIZE]	Slow NON-Blushing
3 to 1 MEDIUM Epoxy Hardener [SIZE=-2]Our most popular hardener choice, an excellent general purpose hardener for most conditions including high performance applications. Great for fiberglass and composite layup with carbon or kevlar.[/SIZE]	[SIZE=-1]Mixing Ratio by Volume:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 3:1[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Pot Life: [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]20-25 Min @ 80F[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Set Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 3-4 Hours[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Drying Time: [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]8-10 Hours[/SIZE]	Medium
4 to 1 FAST Epoxy Hardener [SIZE=-2]Our fast epoxy hardener is great for cold weather conditions or for those who prefer fast curing times at normal temperatures. It is good for fiberglass and composite layup as well as a fast cure bonding applications.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-2]The faster cure of this particular hardener will also result in a more rigid laminate.[/SIZE]	[SIZE=-1]Mixing Ratio by Volume:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 4:1[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Pot Life:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 15 Min @ 80F[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Set Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 1-2 Hours[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Drying Time:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] 3-4 Hours[/SIZE]	Fast

Thanks in advance

 

[Arawak]

Will using epoxy in this manner create any issues do to the differences in flexibility?

I don't think so. Your structures will be very rigid no matter what resin you use. The differences in flexibility come down to stretch before failure. About 2% for polyester and about 4% for epoxy. Glass is I think around 7%. Theoretically your epoxy repair will handle greater loads without failing than a polyester repair will. In practice I suspect there will not be much difference, we should be overbuilding to a point where it's a non-issue.

When using the epoxy is it a longer process wetting out the glass?

Not really, unless you are using 1708 or another cloth with mat. In general you don't use mat (CSM) with epoxy, it's not needed. The epoxies I've used were all more viscous than any polyester I've used, so there's perhaps a bit more rolling but not much. But if you're using 12oz or even 17oz cloth you won't really have any issues. You'll likely have longer working life anyway.

On that note, don't mix up a big batch of epoxy and leave it in the same cup. Divide it up into little batches or spread it out quickly or it will kick really quick. i usually mix up a red solo cup full, and then either pour it off into several cups or spread it out right away.

I will be doing this in a climate controlled garage should I use 3 to 1 or 4 to one? Anything else I need to know to make a good decision

I'd recommend a slow or intermediate hardener. Less (or no) blush, and lots of working time. I guess it depends on how you work. I tend to go over to my dad's place for a few hours, do some gluing or a layup, and then come back the next day or later. If you really want to motor through, faster hardener may be better.

Typically the 5:1 epoxy brands are stronger than the more user-friendly 3:1 or 2:1 ones. I think this is a function of the chemistry but that's just a guess. Again, in practice, this is likely not a big issue.

I will say that you want to get your mix ratio right. A food scale makes this super easy, even for small batches. Note that the mix ratio by weight is slightly different than by volume, if you go this route. It will usually tell you on the label what the ratios are.