1992 Skimmer 18' Flat Bottom Skiff Restoration

[Fastatv]

Well, after a period of time, they will dry out at the tops of the stringers but its unlikely that they will dry out in the bottom areas because of the encapsulation in glass. There just isn't any way to get air/heat circulating into the bottom areas...but again, maybe the water intrusion is very minimized, just in an area or two. For piece of mind, if you need it, you might take a few core samples of the stringers....at the bottom, then you will know. Good luck!

 

[studioq]

I haven't entirely made up my mind not to replace them - I'm just saying that I don't really want to. And when you see the condition of the wood on the front of the boat (I believe it was only in the water for a year) you'll see that it's in very nice shape. I can walk on it at 300lbs without it cracking or breaking away. I'll know more once I get it all sanded down and cleaned up. I can even core it in a few places. The rear half of the boat might be a bit more suspect. If I could lift out the wood without having to cut out all of the old stringer glass and PB, I might look for that option. I've seen it done on another boat here. But their wood was rotten. Mine is just wet.

 

[Woodonglass]

You are absolutely correct in your assumption that wet wood will eventually dry out IF it's left exposed to a dry environment long enough. The problem is once it's been saturated and then does dry it usually develops mold and bacteria which will eventually lead to rot. This can take several years to occur but it usually does occur. It's best to replace the wet wood to ensure the rot does not occur especially in the case where you will be covering it up with resin and glass and then laying a deck over it. No one wants to do unnecessary work but this is NOT the case here. You will be much better served to completely remove and replace these stringers and ensure that your boat is in a good sound structural state. But as I always say, It is Your boat and you are free to do with it as you see fit.

 

[studioq]

I think my hangup is the PB and glass-work along the bottom of the stringers and keel.. If I can find a way to do the work while leaving that in place I'd be happy. It's a ton of material and quite heavy duty. It seems like a lot to take it all out - particularly seeing as how it's in really good shape. I get what you're saying about it continuing to go bad because it got so wet in the first place..

 

[studioq]

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I found these wires abandoned in the console. Anyone know if they're the old OMC cables for the system alarm - system check gauge?

 

[studioq]

Ok. 2Lb foam or 4Lb foam? Looking at the structure of the boat it seems that 4Lb would be necessary. Is it "overkill". I know at least one of the board members is a fan of "overkill".. Thanks..

 

[jigngrub]

2 lb. is what your boat was made with, and if you plan to store your boat covered and dry when not in use you won't have any problems.

4 lb. will be a stronger build and the 4 lb. foam is more water resistant than the 2 lb.

 

[studioq]

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In planning for the new deck and other work during the rebuild I decided to do some test runs of some various composite orders...

My first 2 poly test composites... The one on the left is 3 layers (1 piece of 6oz cloth between 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM) and the other is a 7 layer composite of 1.5 oz CSM and 6 oz cloth. (mat, cloth, mat, cloth, mat, cloth, mat). I set a phone behind them just to show the translucence.

 

[studioq]

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And here is a test composite with gel coat. 4 alternating layers of CSM and cloth.

 

[studioq]

At 8oz per square foot the 7 layer - while overkill - isn't that bad weight wise. That's around 42 - 50 lbs for the deck. I don't want to do the bare minimum. I'd like it to be really solid. I'm just wondering if I can get the same strength for less using another grade of cloth or biaxial..

 

[studioq]

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This is the area of the stern that I want to close in once I get the deck on and the panels made. I'd like it to be a battery box - as well as a water tight enclosure for the control cables. I thought of putting a live-well in to port.. But I'm still thinking on that.

 

[studioq]

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Stripped off the gel coat down to bare glass while I was removing the lip from the old deck. Had to be done. Why not now.

 

[studioq]

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After a lot of thought and examination - and reading these forums - I dug deeper and found more rot and decided to go ahead and remove the stringers and transom. I'm now firmly committed to doing things completely. It'll be better off for it.

As I suspected, the stringers were cut incorrectly and simply glopped in there with tons of PB. They weren't attached to the hull on the bottom of the stringer - rather they were built in on piles of glass and thickened resin. At one point they were well over an inch off the surface of the hull.

This has left huge ridges of PB along the length of the hull. My choice now is the kill myself trying to smooth them out completely - or lay the new stringers back in the gaps and re-glass them in... Thoughts?

 

[djm3801]

Big job but I commend your determination and work.

 

[Woodonglass]

It's never a good idea to attempt to place the stringers back in the old channels. You'll never be able to achieve a good bond. I KNOW you don't want to have to grind away all the old bedding material and you won't have to. Just enough to get it fairly smooth to allow the new stringers to set level and allow you to create new fillets to the hull. That will be the correct method for installation. That's my recommendation.

 

[studioq]

That will be the correct method for installation. That's my recommendation.

Yes - I didn't WANT to take out the stringers either.. But at this point I'm going to grind away enough material - if not all of it - and do it over. I was also going to prep the whole inner hull and lay some new glass along the bottom. It's pretty flimsy and I'd like to tighten it up a bit. Considering 2 layers of 1708 or one layer of 38oz stitch-mat with a layer of 1708 over that to create a new bedding and a firmer bottom to the hull - then lay the new stringers in.

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, if it's real flimsy that might warrant some extra glass but remember if you're gunna be pouring foam it will really reinforce the hull a lot. What seems flimsy now will not be once the deck is in and the foam expands and presses firmly against the glass. Not saying you shouldn't do it, just something to think about. Unless it's extremely think in spots It might not need it.

 

[studioq]

Yep. I've considered that. There are just some spots where the glass cracks a little when I'm walking on it. I'd like to strengthen that a bit. I noticed that it got really bad once the stringers were out and I suspect it will only get worse once I grind out the rest of the old work.. I'll keep an eye on it. Chances are I'm going to flip the hull too and give the whole bottom a once over and address any repairs that might be needed.

 

[Woodonglass]

You're there "OnSite" so you Know Best and what seems right. An extra $100 bucks of resin and cloth and couple hours of work as insurance is not all that much to ensure a sound craft.

 

[jigngrub]

Yes - I didn't WANT to take out the stringers either.. But at this point I'm going to grind away enough material - if not all of it - and do it over. I was also going to prep the whole inner hull and lay some new glass along the bottom. It's pretty flimsy and I'd like to tighten it up a bit. Considering 2 layers of 1708 or one layer of 38oz stitch-mat with a layer of 1708 over that to create a new bedding and a firmer bottom to the hull - then lay the new stringers in.

I'm just glad to see you've finally come to your senses and have decided to replace your stringers, you'll be a lot happier and more satisfied with the completed job along with the peace of mind knowing your boat will last a lot longer and be safer too.