1992 Malibu Sunsetter Euro F3 rebuild seeking advice

[todhunter]

I just coated mine in resin and let them cure, bedded them, then did 2 layers of 1708 for tabbing and one layer of 1708 to cap them. I think as long as you are fully encapsulating, you're good. I think the CSM is overkill here. I also only get evenings and weekends to work on my project, so I understand. I like doing as much wet-on-wet as possible. If you don't have the time to do a full stringer in one evening, only bed the area where you are going to lay tabbing, then you can pick up where you left off the next day. Sanding fillets sucks. Knocking the hairs down on a flat area of 1708 so you can pick up where you left off is pretty quick and easy.

 

[Diamondb33]

I just coated mine in resin and let them cure, bedded them, then did 2 layers of 1708 for tabbing and one layer of 1708 to cap them. I think as long as you are fully encapsulating, you're good. I think the CSM is overkill here. I also only get evenings and weekends to work on my project, so I understand. I like doing as much wet-on-wet as possible. If you don't have the time to do a full stringer in one evening, only bed the area where you are going to lay tabbing, then you can pick up where you left off the next day. Sanding fillets sucks. Knocking the hairs down on a flat area of 1708 so you can pick up where you left off is pretty quick and easy.

Great advice on not running all the fillets first. I bet this post alone saved me several evenings of work.

 

[Reserector_]

Odds are that your new transom piece will be bowed a bit. Use that to your advantage when clamping/pressing into place. For example, if the center hits and the ends are bowed inward, there may be no need to clamp the middle because clamping the ends will create pressure in the middle. Or vice-versa.

You could clamp blocks to the stringers to butt boards against. Make the boards the right length so that they can be butted against the blocks and the other end against the transom and tapped in place to wedge them. You may also be able to wedge some boards between your cap and the transom.
In this photo, you can see a 2x4 that I wedged between a flotation box and the transom, just to give you a picture of what I am trying to describe.

 

[Diamondb33]

Nice work! I dry fitted my transom in with my clamping system the other night and it is very snug. I was pleased. I had to drill a hole in the middle to add one more pinch point but not that big of a deal. Transom is glassed and stringers are resined and 1708 patched on top of the scarf joints and all are ready to be bedded in. It’s been raining here quite a bit this week so I’ve been working on cutting and glassing as much as I can in the garage until the rain stops. I took two hours off of work today and got a big section of my floor stencils built from cardboard. Hopefully I can get them cut and prepped for glass tonight and then start the floor glassing process tonight or tomorrow. Trudging right along.