1992 Evinrude 150hp EXEN will not run correctly

[striper chaser]

Yes , the S.L.O.W. existed in 1992.----Triggered by overheat.------Need to learn how to use a timing light to pinpoint the loss of spark I think.-----Check that shift switch again.----I suspect spark was lost on 3 cylinders.

"Check that shift switch again" If it were a bad switch would it fire on only 3 at all rpms? not just over 1500?
"-I suspect spark was lost on 3 cylinders" It purrs under about 1500rpm but anything over that and it's firing on 3 only so there must have been something let loose and put into SLOW.
Wouldn't unplugging the black/white wire from temp sensor to the power pack bypass that??

 

[racerone]

I can not do the testing for you.----Learning on your part is required !!

 

[striper chaser]

I can not do the testing for you.----Learning on your part is required !!

I'll check the neutral switch when I get a chance

 

[stresspoint]

if that motor has a OIS sensor , that little sensor can be problematic with heat cycling. Random failing used to be common back in the day.
there have been a few instances where direct sunlight has caused random damage.

if you have a OIS ,the test procedure is in the OEM workshop manual , please feel free to PM if it is not in the manual you are receiving

 

[striper chaser]

if that motor has a OIS sensor , that little sensor can be problematic with heat cycling. Random failing used to be common back in the day.
there have been a few instances where direct sunlight has caused random damage.

if you have a OIS ,the test procedure is in the OEM workshop manual , please feel free to PM if it is not in the manual you are receiving

I have a new optic sensor and power pack installed. I put those in last week. I'm thinking racerone might be correct with the neutral switch. If I get a chance I'll check that today or tomorrow...

 

[racerone]

Shift switch on the motor.----Not the neutral start switch in the control box !

 

[striper chaser]

Shift switch on the motor.----Not the neutral start switch in the control box !

10-4.... I had pulled it the other day to make sure the plunger button on the bottom of it was not stuck, seemed to work freely but that is not to say the switch itself went south.... I don't want to permanently bypass it either, if it is bad it will be replaced...

 

[striper chaser]

put the boat in. Fired right up, ran rough at idle, I can deal with that. Motored out about 1/2 mile to open water where I can WOT. The motor ran mint at 4000 rpm which is as fast as I really feel comfortable going as it was low tide, after 1/2 mile the buzzer went off and it went into SLOW mode definitely only running on 3. I killed the motor, unhooked the temp senor started er up and the same thing, after about 1/2 mile the buzzer went of and it went into SLOW again. I shut er down and unhooked the shift switch on the shifter at the motor and it did the same thing. So I tried it at 3500 and it ran perfect for several miles, as soon as I take it up to 4000 it craps out again. Now I'm really stumped as I have the temp sensor (blk/white and tan wires) disconnected and the neutral safety switch disconnected and the buzzer still goes off.
I just put in a new Mastertech double fuel pump. I don't feel it's a fuel issue.
If it goes into SLOW I can shut it off for a few seconds, turn it on and it runs mint for a 1/2 mile then it starts all over again....
It's getting better though, I can at least go fishing even if I don't catch anything.. and I don't have to go 50 mph...

 

[racerone]

Time to send it to a shop I think.

 

[striper chaser]

Time to send it to a shop I think.

it has to be something simple. I'm prusing thru my service manual now looking for something I may have missed... There has to be something that sets it off over 3800 and then reset. I used my IR temp gun and each side stays at around 125-130. I might put the old power pack in and see it that changes anything, maybe I got a bad one...

 

[dwco5051]

Check for spark on each bank with a clamp on timing light while it is cutting out. A two man job. A fuel restriction well also cause the buzzer to go off. Had a friend with a similar problem of going into slow now and then but it rarely happened. He asked me to look at it later because of what was an erratic reading on the volt meter. Discovered a sometimes short where wires from the regulator would short where they went under a clamp. After that was taped up and fixed the problem with going into slow mode also went away. Another friend who is a tech said that a possible overheat of the stater due to the short could affect the ignition. Never heard of that before but I figured he knew more than me.

 

[striper chaser]

Check for spark on each bank with a clamp on timing light while it is cutting out. A two man job. A fuel restriction well also cause the buzzer to go off. Had a friend with a similar problem of going into slow now and then but it rarely happened. He asked me to look at it later because of what was an erratic reading on the volt meter. Discovered a sometimes short where wires from the regulator would short where they went under a clamp. After that was taped up and fixed the problem with going into slow mode also went away. Another friend who is a tech said that a possible overheat of the stater due to the short could affect the ignition. Never heard of that before but I figured he knew more than me.

HMMMMmm. if fuel restriction can cause the buzzer and SLOW then I'll check that tomorrow. Kinda makes sense seeing how it only happens over 3500 rpm where it's wanting more fuel... Thanks dwco5051

 

[dwco5051]

I don't think fuel restriction is connected to the SLOW, just the buzzer. The buzzer would sound a steady buzz when my fuel line got pinched once or twice when I tilted the motor from up to down.

 

[striper chaser]

Well, I received the new conversion pump system from Master Tech last week. I put it in and it ran fine, I thought, till I ran out fuel, like real fast. Apparently the O-ring that seals the forward pump plastic cover fuel inlet was the wrong size by about 1/4" in diameter to big so the cap never sealed properly and fuel was pumping out.
I went to 4 different parts stores and could not find a good enough fit so I sent 3 emails and left 3 voicemails to Bill at Master tech asking if he could send me a new O-ring over the last week and have got no reply. Is this guy out of business??

 

[Faztbullet]

Cause they are Chineseem pumps and OEM parts wont fit.

 

[striper chaser]

Cause they are Chineseem pumps and OEM parts wont fit.

Go Figure, and this is in his ad on his website!!! Pump Kits Made in USA by Mastertech Marine!

 

[racerone]

Maybe try a factory pump cover.----New style with o-ring.-----Or older style with flat gasket.-----Simple solutions are always best.-----You will have this motor running correctly soon !!

 

[striper chaser]

Maybe try a factory pump cover.----New style with o-ring.-----Or older style with flat gasket.-----Simple solutions are always best.-----You will have this motor running correctly soon !!

I'll get it dialed in. I need to find the time to get the correct O-ring seeing how mastertech will not respond. Thought I would a quality part for what he charges... shame on me...

 

[striper chaser]

just got a call from Bill with Mastertech, a rebuild kit is on the way, he has no idea what happened, slipped thru some how, but he is making it right, can't ask for anything more....

 

[Faztbullet]

There is a difference in manufacturing and assembling. You can take pieces from anywhere and assemble in your kitchen and states item was made in USA.