Thanks Matt, it will be my first boat so wanted to start with something inexpensive. My buddy is already giving me grief over buying a Bayliner lol.It's not a lot of motor for that boat. 4.3L V6 is what it should have. But it will make a good beginner boat if it's solid and checks out.
Bayliner built price point boats, and one way they did that was basically selling boats with smaller engines than they should have, and optioning larger engines. The other way they did is just cheaply manufacturing. They were/ are flashy boats, they appealed to first time boaters and became successful in the 80's when there was a boating boom
Dont take any bs for buying a bayliner, they are a cheap way to get on the water. Older ones didn’t hold up too well hence the chop busting. They have the same mercrusier engine as many other boats so mechanically the same.Thanks Matt, it will be my first boat so wanted to start with something inexpensive. My buddy is already giving me grief over buying a Bayliner lol.
i had a 15p 4 blade on mine.. worked wellDont take any bs for buying a bayliner, they are a cheap way to get on the water. Older ones didn’t hold up too well hence the chop busting. They have the same mercrusier engine as many other boats so mechanically the same.
on a boat of this age you need to be concerned about wood rot in transom stringers and floor Which can leave the boat structurally unsound. Look at some of the boats in the restoration thread to see what can happen.
the 3.0 will work fine, one of the best marine engines out there, very durable with basic maintenance. You may want a lower pitch prop for tubing
I ran two different pitch 4 blade michigan vortex aluminum props on mine (sea ray 170/3.0 engine) 16” for skiing, 18” for cruise and tubing. Was a really good value in an upgrade, they were like $125-150 each.I appreciate the feed back, its going to be our first boat and wanted it to be as versatile as possible. For the price its hard to beat, everything with the larger engines cause the price to jump considerably.
I have a 1998 Bayliner Capri 1950. The 3.0 is definitely rock solid. Look hard at the transom and floor. The floors usually aren't sealed on the underside when the boat is built and will rot from the bottom up. I'll be replacing mine this fallDont take any bs for buying a bayliner, they are a cheap way to get on the water. Older ones didn’t hold up too well hence the chop busting. They have the same mercrusier engine as many other boats so mechanically the same.
on a boat of this age you need to be concerned about wood rot in transom stringers and floor Which can leave the boat structurally unsound. Look at some of the boats in the restoration thread to see what can happen.
the 3.0 will work fine, one of the best marine engines out there, very durable with basic maintenance. You may want a lower pitch prop for tubing
Your experience is surprising. We had a 19' FG bowrider with a 140 3-liter. And it certainly was properly pitched. Of course much heavier than your tinny. With 4 adults in the B-T-B seats, 2 pre-teens in the bow and 2 pre-teens in the aft jump seats she would plane very nicely. Never had to move anyone around.I had a 3.0 on an 18' Starcraft Holiday...a light aluminum, open station (no cabin) boat, both of which I restored....so I didn't have water intrusion hull problems, aluminum lighter than FG, or engine mechanical problems and prop was properly pitched.
Without even attempting water sports, if 2 folks were sitting in the jump seats adjacent to the engine cover at the stern, and two more were up, driving and sitting across from there, it was a dog to get on plane. Usually the jump seaters had to get up, move up to where the other two occupants were and once up on the water they could go back and sit.
Versatile usually equates to compromised.its going to be our first boat and wanted it to be as versatile as possible
You said 140. I guess 30 hp and PT does make a difference. Mine was a 1965 with 110 and no trim.Your experience is surprising. We had a 19' FG bowrider with a 140 3-liter. And it certainly was properly pitched. Of course much heavier than your tinny. With 4 adults in the B-T-B seats, 2 pre-teens in the bow and 2 pre-teens in the aft jump seats she would plane very nicely. Never had to move anyone around.
Maybe you needed an induction tach and a prop meeting upper half of the spec rpm.....LOL.
Then that was a 2.5 l not the bigger 3.0. My neighbors growing up had one in a 17 or 18 ft starcraft (1969), skiied almost everyday with it. Was tough to get up slalom on it . Definitely could have used mire powerYou said 140. I guess 30 hp and PT does make a difference. Mine was a 1965 with 110 and no trim.
I wonder if it being a lighter aluminum hull that maybe it had a higher pitched prop , say a 21 vs a 19 that might be found on the heavier Bayliner. So even with that lighter hull the prop pitch wouldn't let you pop out of the hole as fast as the other guys are saying , but you have more top end once you get rolling. And the Bayliner might have more of a hole shot but less top end when propped correctly.I had a 3.0 on an 18' Starcraft Holiday...a light aluminum, open station (no cabin) boat, both of which I restored....so I didn't have water intrusion hull problems, aluminum lighter than FG, or engine mechanical problems and prop was properly pitched.
Without even attempting water sports, if 2 folks were sitting in the jump seats adjacent to the engine cover at the stern, and two more were up, driving and sitting across from there, it was a dog to get on plane. Usually the jump seaters had to get up, move up to where the other two occupants were and once up on the water they could go back and sit.
I'd pass and part of that answer is that if this boat is distasteful to you, it could ruin your perspective of the sport....a bad thing to happen (opinion).
I didn't keep track of the cu. ins in the little I4 Mercruiser engines. So that explains part of the difference in thrust.Then that was a 2.5 l not the bigger 3.0. My neighbors growing up had one in a 17 or 18 ft starcraft (1969), skiied almost everyday with it. Was tough to get up slalom on it . Definitely could have used mire power
To tell you the truth, I did this restoration over 30 years ago best I can WAG. I didn't have to do much if any mechanic work to my boats of the day other than with this restoration mentioned. I know I didn't change the aluminum prop and just used what was on it. Don't recall any instrument readings or any of that. I was so overwhelmed that I got that restoration finished and it worked, I didn't even think about fine tuning it and to have something like the Go-fast.com prop slip calculator available, and the money to invest in a new prop, maybe it would have had an different outcome.I wonder if it being a lighter aluminum hull that maybe it had a higher pitched prop , say a 21 vs a 19 that might be found on the heavier Bayliner. So even with that lighter hull the prop pitch wouldn't let you pop out of the hole as fast as the other guys are saying , but you have more top end once you get rolling. And the Bayliner might have more of a hole shot but less top end when propped correctly.