1992 Bass Tracker

Wilson320

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Dec 18, 2023
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I’ve got my grandpas old boat. Sat in a barn for about 20 years. Wood is all rotted underneath (I’ve gotten most of it out at the point, and let me tell you… My lord that was a “B”. Haha).
My question is, how likely do you guys think this thing will float? Any tips on checking it with out taking it down to the water?
And the most important question is, what is the easiest most recommended flooring to put in this? I don’t care about anything other than putting seats back in it and going fishing,
It does have big “dips” in it where the foam that helps keep it afloat goes, I assume I need to replace this with something, create a flat surface and then lay a rubber mat down? Lol.
Please help with ideas. It does NOT have to be pretty or last 10 years.
I’ve been saving up to buy a used boat for 3-4K, wondering if I should just go that route, or if getting this thing on the water is “doable”? The motor and steering is fine, I’ve had it fixed/replaced.
IMG_6217.png
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 18, 2009
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10,904
Usually a 3 to 4k boat will have issues as well so imo you are starting with a gifted boat and most importantly you can make it 200% what you want it to be. If most wood out, take all out then go float it. Do trailer bearings before you do. Just float and sit in it with a beer or two and a ham sandwich and see what happens for a couple hours.. If trolling motor works take it with you and putt around the ramp.

I'll let the smarter people chime in now.

Pics. Always need pics. Then more pics.



Welcome to the forum and good luck.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I would carefully pull the boat apart. making drawings and taking pictures as you go.

then rebuild it back the way it came.
 

Willyclay

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Sep 8, 2006
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3,257
Welcome to the forum. The members here are great and can help you with most any issue you find. If you have not already do so, thank Grandpa for buying an aluminum boat. It is a much better stating point than FG. Good luck!
 

roscoe

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Oct 30, 2002
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Why wouldn't it float?
If the aluminum isn't split open, and the fill/drain fittings for the livewell aren't broken, it should float.

My plan would be to rip out all wood structure.
If the foam is dry all the way to the bottom, leave it alone.
If the foam is wet, rip it out and replace it.

Remove the livewell through hull fittings, cover the holes with a piece of aluminum, secure it and seal it.

Build yourself a new floor out of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood, sealed with spar varnish. Don't use pressure treated wood.

Secure your seats to the plywood.

Should be able to slap it together for $100-$200. A bit more if you need to replace the foam.

Is that stick steering operated from the front seat?
Or is that a tiller handle motor?
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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Ok it wasnt just me. And to scotts post dont see any evidence of a console?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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had to go thru the old BT catalogs. it appears that is a pan-fish special. and not the larger Bass Tracker series. the panfish was narrow enough to be stick steer.... but just barely at 71" wide beam, the controls are about 60" apart.

It would have looked like this.
img_3862-jpg.29854
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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Forgot about the panfish series. When i started making money that was what i was looking at. Only thing my new found 'wealth' could afford. Never got one.

five foot span seems a bit much.


to the OP id look at changing that to a tiller mode l if you want/need to change the motor. If not since you are pulling the floor pull one or both of the controls closer to you, unless you are minimum six foot tall.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 30, 2002
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It was easier to see once I put the phone away and viewed it on the 'puter.
I remember seeing one years ago, where the stick was mounted to the side of the seat base, I think. Anyway, rare animals up here in the north.
 
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