1991 Wellcraft 197 Eclipse Restoration questions

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I am deeply involved in restoring my Wellcraft and have some questions about finishing up the fiberglass so I am prepared when that time arises. Currently the boat is gutted and I just completed my 40 hours of fiberglass hull grinding last night. I will be using polyester resin with CSM and 1708 on all the new plywood stringers and the floor. What is the best way to finish the final layer? PVA or wax additive? I would like to paint the bilge and cuddy floor when complete. What kind of prep would be needed to the surface for good paint adhesion? Or would a waxed gel coat be a better alternative. Also would a wax or PVA finished Fiberglass surface inhibit carpet glue adhesion?20220313_174953.jpg
 

todhunter

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Congrats on finishing the grinding - my least favorite part.

I did not do any final cure on my stringers or bulkheads - anything under the floor. I filled those cavities with foam, so the tackiness will never be an issue.

For the top surface of the deck I used a wax additive to the final layer of resin. Similarly for the bilge and ski locker, I added wax to the final layer of gelcoat. I don't recommend PVA - I tried it and it's hard to tell when you've got it all removed.

If you're laying carpet (like I did), use rags and a liberal amount of acetone to remove the wax from the surface of the deck after it's cured. You'll want to do this before laying glue, or before sanding.
 

Scott Danforth

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I sprayed PVA

then came back with simple green and a scrub brush to remove the PVA a week later
 
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How many layers of gel coat can I expect to have to lay on in the bilge and other areas? How much might I need for the bilge and ski locker?
 

Scott Danforth

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I sprayed 3 layers of gel to get coverage
 
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Thanks for the info guys. Should I use unwaxed gel coat for the first layers and the add wax to the last, or can I use all waxed as long as I topcoat it before it cures?
 
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I have laminated my transom layers together and while I wait a couple days for it to cure I have started making a template for my 1st bulk head. I have read that you should have 1/4" gap between stringers and the hull when you bed them. why should it be bedded up that far away? They were clearly installed directly onto the hull when it was manufacturered. I intend to bed the Bulk heads and stringers with PL then filled with pb.
 

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buxmj

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You want to get the wood up off the hull so when you add the PB you have the filets on both sides and PB under the plywood as all one continuous wide support instead of the small contact point of the plywood to the hull which could cause a stress crack or worse when hitting a hard wave. Others might be able to describe that better but it made sense to me. I used quarter inch thick rubber as spacers.
 

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buxmj

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I suggest you skip the PL and just use PB. You won't have to wait for the PL to cure and having it all be the same bond and having the fibers will tie it all together. Just my .02.
 

todhunter

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You make a large gap between the stringers and hull so you can be sure you completely full the gap with PB. The thing you want to avoid is gaps (even small ones) with no filler between the hull and stringers, as the edges of the gaps are stress risers and the center of the gaps are areas where the hull can flex. You want a full, continuous bed. If the stringer was sitting directly on the hull, you've got to imagine there will be some spots you won't be able to cram your bedding material into.
 
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I have my transom ply laminated to the hull with 1 layer of csm and 1 layer of 1708 laid up. I intend to complete the final layers of glass this weekend. How many total layers of 1708 do I need to add to the 1 3/4 to bring it up to the target 2 1/8" thickness?20220412_185901.jpg
 

McHans

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Do you have any before pics from the motor mount blocks? I have rotten wood under the motor mounts, but everything else is dry, at least around the gas tank.
 
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