1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
26
Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

I'ts been a about a week since my last update but I have been able to work on it a little bit.
So I was working on it in my back yard until I began grinding and using a cutting wheel. The dust was ending up everywhere, all over the back and front areas of my house the dog, the neighbors, the neighbors dog.
This stuff if bad!!
Last Friday I decided to put the boat in the garage. Luckily It fit!!! I had to lower the winch all the way down. I put up plastic to border off an area to keep the dust out of the house and off my tools ect.. . Worked out great considering the weather we've had in DFW.
Today I was able to get after it for a few hours. The stringers are ground out and all the wood is cleaned out. I may have to replace the transom, still have to take some core samples.
Now that I've grinded out the stringers I have a question on how much I should grind away the old mat.
You may be able to see in the pics that there is alot of layers of mat on top of the hull. I guess this is from mounting the stringers and building up the engine mounts and bilge area. I ripped some of it up and grinded the soft areas down(more to go).

So my question is, do I have to take all the old mounting fiberglass down to the hull or just prep it and fiberglass over it?
Any sugestions on what wear when doing this? The clothes I've been wearing Aint cuttin it! I'm itchy!! I do wear gloves, respirator and goggles.
 

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Friscoboater

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Jul 3, 2009
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

I do believe you have to take everything absolutely flush with the hull. You made some serious progress with that thing. I just wish it would get above freezing here. Oh, a tyvek suit will help with the itch.
 

archbuilder

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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Jay is right, grind it down till all of the little pieces sticking up perpendicular to the hull are flat. Any of the glass running parallel to the hull that is still bonded well can stay. If there is any doubt then grind it down to the hull glass. Make sure not to take up much of the hull glass. As a rule if it is adhered and structurally sound, just clean it with acetone, and rough it up with a 24 grit and you should get good adhesion.

Some people recommend cleaning it with acetone after grinding. I don't, what you are doing is creating a mechanical bond to the old glass. The rough surface creates tooth for that bond. The acetone actually will melt the existing glass, giving it a smoother surface. Its my theory (for what its worth) that this creates a weaker bond. Looks like you are getting there, that is a lot of boat!
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
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26
Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Good info! Ok, looks like I still have alot of grinding to do in the aft area. Can you get the tyvek suit at Home Depot?
I'm glad I'm not the only one going through this, not sure if I could make it.
I'll update soon,
Looks like we're in for another round of snow tonight. You guys be careful!
 

Friscoboater

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Jul 3, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Yep we are. I am right up the street from you, and I am getting tired of this. I got a suit from a paint store.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Really nice work so far on the demo phase. It gets better from here!
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
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26
Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

NO MORE ROTTON WOOD!
Still more grinding to do though.:(
Have I mentioned this stuff is itchy!!!!!!!!
After making a few drill holes, I pulled out the gimbal and began tearing out the transom. At this point I would have to agree with everyone on this site about doing a core sample on the transom. If the floor and stringers have rot than chances of a bad transom are high!
This one had 5 seperate sections of different thickness. I removed the middle section first. There was still wet wood on the smaller sections on each side so I removed it also. The upper sections were only 1/4 inch thick but were glassed to the foam that's in the swim platform.

Wow, cant wait to start rebuilding this thing.
 

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archbuilder

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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Nice job, looks like you about have her cleaned up!
 
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

First, I want to thank everyone for all the great help up to this piont. This was realy only supposed to be a repower, interior and paint. That would have been nice. Now that I'm past the tear out phase I feel I'm almost over the hump. I enjoy building and constructing so I'm pretty excited about the rest of the project. I haven't purchased anything for the rest of the build so I need to put togather a list of supplies I need. Not sure where to begin so any help in this area would be greatly appreciated!
All ply will be 3/4" out door or should I use 1/2" instead. 1/2 is what it came with and I plan to put the foam back for structure. I dont want to make it to heavy if I dont have to. Should I use treated ply on everything? I'm going to try to find some dry wood from somewhere.
The deck 2-3sheets
Transom 1 sheet
Stringers 2-3 sheets
Polly resin 8-10 gal

I'm really at a loss with the fiberglass. The boat is 19.7' long and 8' beam. The deck is about 18" at the tallest point in the aft area. I can get better measurments if needed.
Chop strand..? ounces?
1708 ?
1708 biax ?
The fiberglass mix, mabey 5 gal?
I can get some of the stuff like the PL adhesive and misc stuff local.

This is where experience really helps!

Thanks again!
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
26
Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

I do believe you have to take everything absolutely flush with the hull. You made some serious progress with that thing. I just wish it would get above freezing here. Oh, a tyvek suit will help with the itch.

The Tyvek suit works great!!!!! They had it at Lowes
Now the grinding's not thad bad, thanks's a ton Frisco!!!
 

Friscoboater

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Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Holy cow you are flying. How in the heck have you been working in all this cold? Ohh thats right you have it in your garage. Well I have a tiny garage and my boat still has snow on it, and I am only 20 minutes from you.
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

It's fixing to slow down, it dosen't cost much to tear out, but now I have to start dropping the cash. I own landscape company so it's pretty slow this time of year. Just chipping away a couple hours atleast every 2 days.

When I bought the boat I moved the compay out of the garage into a warehouse. Been needing to do it for a while.
 

Friscoboater

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Messages
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

I just did the same thing and moved my company from my house to HUGE storage unit. Right now it is the opposite for me. This is our busy time of year. I own a Home theater company.
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Just starting this project

Well, I'm at the point of using the pl to glue the transom together. Another few days and the wood should be good and dry. I have some questions on this process though.

Do I coat each sheet with resin before I glue them together? Or do I glue them then coat it as a whole peice?

Also, I still need to buy my resin and fabric. Can I use the 1708 Biax for everything? I plan on buying it by the roll. It would cost alot to buy a roll of csm, woven and the 1708.

Any advice on this will be very helpful
Thanks again!

I'll have some more pics soon
 
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Jan 16, 2011
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Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Full Restore

Re: 1990 Phantom 20' Full Restore

I picked up the outdoor 3/4 ply from Fort Worth Lumber @ $24 per sheet. Nice and flat, seems like a good price.

Most of the wood is cut and I've mocked it up. Wanted to cut it soon so it would dry faster.
 

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Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
26
After a few years I am finally getting close to splashing it. Its been real hit and miss when I work on it. I want to be on the water in three weeks.
Currently Motor is in and running, I just finished the final piece of upholstery today.

This link is to about 30 pics over the past 2 years progress.

https://www.dropbox.com/l/yFoeRT1IbaktVvLX0iiPIn if link doesn't work I'll upload pics

There's one more layer of csm to put down on the floor.
Before I do I am contemplating whether to do the pour in foam or not. I did not leave any drain holes in the stringers and right now everything is all sealed but there's always that chance water could get in at some point.

Any suggestions on doing or leaving out the foam? I did beef up the stringers from 1/2" to 3/4".
 

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
Looks like you're getting real close now! I also wavered back and forth on the foam issue, but in the end I decided to use it. My boat doesn't have any drain holes in the stringers and bulkheads, and there wasn't any in the original build either. I just foamed and sealed everything up as well as I could. I like the safety aspect of using
foam, and the insulation aspect for sound deadening and warmth. I'm thinking that with the space completely filled with foam there is no room for condensation, and
without limber holes you don't have to worry about bilge water backwashing into the area between the stringers under the sole. Just my opinion, and I'm just another guy fixing my old boat, so take it for what it's worth.
 

juanage69

Recruit
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
1
Ever get it in the water? Curious I recently bought the same boat and have yet to get it in the water.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Ever get it in the water? Curious I recently bought the same boat and have yet to get it in the water.

Welcome aboard, Juan.

Superior hasn't visited the forums in over a year. We prefer members to start new topics about their boat than post to inactive threads. We can then help float your new boat.

Thanks.
 
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