1990 Force 120HP trim and tilt not keeping motor up no leaks

[topgun3690]

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/some-hints-on-the-t-t-repairing-the-relief-valve.697972/ Look at this thread by Jerry....the valves have to come apart.....without damaging them. He used some panel clip pliers, washers, and heat to get them apart. It's all in that thread.....if the check valves get damaged they will be no good, that is the hardest part of the whole deal. I bought the pliers from Harbor Freight.....they were pretty useless. There are better ones out there.
Take the black o-rings off and save them....before using heat. You will need them when putting back together.

 

[topgun3690]

Saw these on Amazon....look better made than the HF crap I bought. Lol.

 

[gica]

So they pop out not unscrew. Good to know

 

[topgun3690]

So they pop out not unscrew. Good to know

Yes. Be careful because when the cap lets loose if will fly away.....put a towel over it or something to catch it. Member 59Hustler did this not too long ago. He was outside....when the cap came flying off he had a heck of a time finding the parts. Using the panel clip pliers, washers, and heat will be the best chance of getting them apart without damage.

 

[gica]

Ok one done. I use a heat gun. Safer.
The black are is tye old seal I guess.

 

[topgun3690]

Good job! The little black seal in that hexagon shaped part....use a pick to get it out....then put one of those red ones in there.
Three more to go......and great idea using the heat gun.

 

[gica]

In the link it showed flat side out for the little seal

 

[topgun3690]

That's correct, according to jerry's pic.....

 

[gica]

Wanted to point out that there is a lip on the contact area and it is not flat with the surface so it will press against the seal.
I hope that's the way it should be.

 

[topgun3690]

I didn't get this far with mine, lol. Jerry will probably see this early in the morning if you want to be sure and ask him.....but I don't see any other way to do it.

 

[gica]

I put it back and even without bleeding it stays put. So it should be right.
But as I staryed to do the second engine
the line that goes to the tilt cylinder broke off the cylinder. Wtf.
The little part that's left spins and it might come off. I was trying to remove the cylinder by taking out the 4 big nuts but the bit bolt s won't come out even hammered. Looking for pointers.

 

[topgun3690]

Maybe use some penetrating oil and heat......salt water probably has them solidified in there.....
may be able to find that fitting and a new line on ebay.....

 

[gica]

So it's supposed to come out on eithwr side right? I will do it tomorrow

 

[topgun3690]

So it's supposed to come out on eithwr side right? I will do it tomorrow

Either side......if threaded on both ends.....
If you could bang em out towards the port side, would only need to move them a couple inches to get the tilt cylinder out......

 

[topgun3690]

Maybe after penetrating oil and heat, try putting double nuts on one end and try to twist it to break it loose....when beatin on it try not to mushroom or deform the ends of the shafts.....FYI

 

[jerryjerry05]

Did you bother to read the sticky (post #4 ???)
It covered a lot of these things for the T@T
Pic# 193650 shows a broken Banjo bolt, can be expensive!! last one I bought was over 25$. Take the top of the ram and get it loose and the banjo bolt will fit over the top.
Taking the bottom bolt out is an almost impossible job, Most times they get damaged and need replacing.
An acetylene torch will help, just remember it gets so hot the aluminum will melt and it will NEVER come out.

 

[gica]

Sticky in post number #4? of the main Force forum?

 

[topgun3690]

Yeah. Probably the same one i posted in #41
…..any luck with those shafts?

 

[gica]

I moved the top one. The bottom is stuck. That nipple is pretty bad I tried to spin it to remove at it did a few turns really hard to grab.

 

[gica]

That sticky deals with the valves I don't see any references to the broken Banjo bolt. I could be wrong