1990 Force 120hp melted ring/piston?

puffitu

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After inspecting spark plugs I’ve come across a capped off plug due to piston ring failure in #2 cylinder. Took the head cover off to confirm and yes there are significant gouges in the cylinder walls. This would explain the misfire/sputter I was experiencing yesterday. I’m not sure what I am capable of doing at this point. Will try to upload some pics of the site will let me.
 

puffitu

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puffitu

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puffitu

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puffitu

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puffitu

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puffitu

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With a head hung low I again ask for advise as to what I am looking at here. I’m pretty mechanically inclined and I’ve done a ton of work to this engine but I am aware that the parts for these are hard to find
 

Jiggz

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You can remove the piston by accessing it from the intake side. Remove the remaining plugs so you can rotate the crankshaft through the flywheel to have an easy access to the piston rod cap. Caution, you need to place the engine in full vertical. Stuff the space below the carbs with rags to prevent losing parts/bolts from falling in the space between the mid-leg.

Dismount the following:
Upper carb, intake adapter and V-block Reed. Using an extension and a 12 pt socket (1/4 inch), remove the two 1/4" bolts on the rod cap. Roller bearings will fall and make sure you recover them all. You will reuse them.

With the rod cap off, push out the piston and do further inspection of the cylinder.
Caution:
1. Note the orientation of the piston rod
2. Check the size of the piston and hopefully it's still the same as the rest. A number stamped on the piston head or crown indicates if it's still standard size of oversized. "1" indicates it's still standard. A shadow of "1" seems to be still readable.
3. If the gouging is light, you can try honing it using honing stones (Harbor Freight has them for like $30) and cutting oil. Otherwise, you will need to have it machined which means dismantling the head from the rest of the motor.
4. If you decide to use Wiseco piston (which is recommended and you can order one with the rings already installed) make sure you also order the wrist bearing kit. The new wrist is not pressed in but uses circ clips to lock in place.
5. The old wrist is pressed in and needs to be pressed out so you can re-use the rod.
6. Use your camera to take pics of everything you are not sure of.

Meltdown happens mostly due to lack of lubrication or cooling fluid. Did you have an overheat scenario? Or maybe failed to mix oil into the fuel? Or made the wrong ratio of oil and fuel? Or used the wrong type of oil?

There also seems to be too much gasket maker/sealant used on that head. In reality, you don't even need sealant to install the head gasket except for exceptional situation. But even then only a small film is needed. You might want to check the straightness of the head the block.
 
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jerryjerry05

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That hole looks like it melted away, got plenty hot!!!
ALL the parts are still available.
Not hard to find at all.

You need to figure out where it was sucking air or it's gonna do it again??
Inspect the gasket on the port cover?

Jiggz's method of repairing the cyl. will work, IF you don't have any scoring on the walls , you do :(
 

puffitu

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Thanks guys
scouring is heavy;well enough to catch with fingernails. Here’s the rundown that I remember from previous owner( now it all makes sense; as at the point of sale I paid limited attention to). He said that that particular cylinder had been “honed” already, and he did mention over heating a couple times. Additionally, this engine is comprised from 1990 120hp bottom and 1989 125hp powerhead which are virtually one and the same; at least to my level of understanding. But this cylinder had the low compression from the start; and I think the PO got this engine running then sold it-fully knowing that it will not last long.
Hers the thing. I have spare time but my funds are limited after just dumping $ into this thing for coil and pack. I mean I’ve really put in the effort here both with $$ and time. You name it and I probably replaced it-
I feel it’s not only challenging but a huge learning experience as I’ve never dug this deep into an engine.
ive been popping by a local marine salvage yard and saw a couple of powerheads laying around but don’t k ow conditions; maybe I should check them out??
thank you for all the advise guys, I’m trying to muster up the enthusiasm to dive into this
 

racerone

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Find yourself a 115 HP Johnson / Evinrude to rebuild.------Well worth doing one of those.
 

Jiggz

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Racerone recommendation is something serious to consider. With a boat yard nearby you can always compare cost. Always do a compression check on all cylinders, it's the most important check when buying boat motors. Goodluck.
 

puffitu

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Still shell shocked
thanks guys. Would it make more sense if I found a similar powerhead to what I already have?? Instead of going Evinrude or else? Just considering the whole switch out ..
 

racerone

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The FORCE line up are simple motors and easy to maintain.-----But parts is parts and I recommend changing to something more reliable easier to get parts for.----Just picked up a 1995 Johnson 90 HP.-----Very , very recent rebuild.----No wear on pistons / rings / and cylinders .------Took it apart and was pleasantly surprised at it all.----No lower unit ( have those on hand ) with about $150 US invested so far.
 

puffitu

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I’m strongly considering all avenues here. At the moment I’m not able to repower but it makes all the sense in the world as force parts are becoming more and more hard to find. Additionally I have limited experience with this caliber of a rebuild if I chose to do so. Financially it’s also pointing me towards a re power. Not sure where to start looking. I’m in Sarasota but willing to travel
 

jerryjerry05

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More reliable?? part are parts and motors are motors.
No matter what you do even top dollar motors break down.
The parts are readily accessible for most any outboard.
I've never had any trouble locating parts for any Force.

Repowering: requires new cables, wiring harness, controls, gauges, and drilling and filling holes.
 

atengnr

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Not to sidetrack this thread, but as someone who is new to Force (from OMC), is this parts availability issue a big deal? I looked online parts site that I use and I dont see a huge difference in parts avail for Force piston/block parts vs similar vintage OMC. Thanks alot.
 

puffitu

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