1990 Bayliner

[edjunior]

Hullo all, I have a line on a 1990 Bayliner with a 140hp Mercruiser (3.0L???). The guy I'm getting it from says the outdrive was stolen, and he has the replacement, however, he just bolted it up...didn't connect anything. He said something about a "pin" that needed put in when connecting the outdrive to the engine (which he has also). What I'm trying to find out is, what needs to be done when attaching the outdrive to the motor? What is this "pin" he's referring to? I really don't have much more information on this, but from this kinda vague question, I can hopefully find out at least what questions to ask him. In case you can't figure it out, I'm new to IO's. I've done some work on my outboard Merc and Mariner, but never messed with an IO yet. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Ayuh,............

My WAGuess is the Trim Ram Anchor Pin........

he just bolted it up...didn't connect anything.

Ayuh,.... I suggest you get the $7. gasket set,+ Pull it Off,+ Start Over........
You'll also want to grab 2qt.s of Oil,+ a pump to refill it.....

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Thanks for the quick reply. I take it the $7.00 gasket set is a pretty common item?? And for the oil, you talking about lower unit oil? I have that oil and a pump for my outboard, is it the same thing?

Again, appreciate the quick reply and help.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Ayuh,........

Lower unit Oil is lower unit Oil.....

I use Mobil 1, 75W-90,....... Choices,+ Opinions are all over the board......

18-2614 is the part # for the gasket set,....for both here at iboats,+ your local Napa.......

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Okay, so it looks like we're gonna deal on this boat, and wanted to get a bit more info to see if I can find out for sure what the deal is with this outdrive. This is what the seller gave me:

"the pin is about 1/2 in long and it's what connects the gear shaft to the lower unit. apparently it's easy to install, but I have no knowledge about how to do it.the motor is a mercruiser. if you tinker around with boat motors you may be able to put the lower unit on yourself. "

So, do you know exactly what this pin is he's referring to? It does sound easy, but he was also saying something about getting it just right so forward and reverse work properly, or something like that. He's not mechanically inclined at all, so it's hard to get precise information from him. And as I said earlier, I haven't done IO's before, but it doesn't sound terribly complicated.

Thanks again, and if I do indeed get the boat, I will end up getting a manual for it.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

So, do you know exactly what this 1/2 in long pin is he's referring to?

Nope..........

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

It sounds like he is talking about the shift shaft lever.....
If he is, you will need to pull the upper & lower cases apart, tpo put it on.......
If you can't get a used one they are like $50 from Merc.....

 

[Don S]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Click here for the section on how to remove and reinstall the outdrive.
It's section 2 of this manual http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6covr3.pdf (click on the section LETTER in the outline)

 

[tommays]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

IMHP you are just learning and it would be a BAD move to BUY a boat that is not in running condition



Tommays

 

[John_S]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

No outdrive, means no test drive, which equals HIGH RISK.

Not bashing Bayliners (I own one), but their runabouts in that year timeframe tend to have floor, transom, and/or stringer rot. Be it poor owner care or whatever, there are many a thread on Bayliner floor/stringer/transom restoration. Please make sure you have done a careful inspection. All boats that that have wood in them should be inspected for same.

So if that is in perfect condition, that only leaves engine, alignment, steering, shifting, couplers, outdrive, etc that can not be tested. Please factor in any price considerations. Is it free to haul away?

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

No, it's no freebie. We're working a trade for my motorcycle. The hull and floor all appear to be in real good shape. Some "scarring" along the outside of the hull (not good use of bumpers), but nothing major. The floor feels very solid everywhere I checked in my initial run through. Same with the transom. Upholstery is fair, with some tears and lack of good cleaning, but again, nothing major. I am taking it home and will have it all weekend and I'll be giving it a good going over, to include the motor and outdrive.

As far as the motor and outdrive, I have done lots of work on my outboard, and lots of other "backyard" mechanic type stuff, so I'm not green by any means. I just have not done any work on an IO before. I look at all this as a learning experience for me, and am not expecting a perfect boat. As long as it is in the running condition he states (he says the motor runs great), and is up front about what is wrong, I have no problems with that. The boat is in overall good condition, but I cannot say great condition. I do understand I could end up getting screwed on the deal, but sometimes you can't forsee the unseeable. I will see if I can find anything else, and really appreciate y'alls input. As I said, it's a learning experience. I learned a lot with my outboard and feel pretty good about it. Thanks again for the input...I value it all. And something tells me, I'll be asking for a lot more.

OH, and Don, thanks for that pdf. That will help a lot. As always, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Okay, I'm back. Now I have the boat, I have the pin and I have lots more to go with. It turns out this pin is part of the shift shaft in the lower unit. All the rest of the outdrive is actually hooked up and complete. It's just this one pin for the shift shaft in the lower unit. It's only about an inch long, and the ends of it are kinda beveled on the top and bottom. I've attached a couple of pics to help explain it all.

This first pic shows the drive shaft and the little shaft at the front is the shift shaft (by the speedo tube). He says the shaft from the stern drive itself connects to this shaft, and this pin goes in somehow to lock it. I have not removed the lower unit yet (this one is a spare, with the good prop!).



The second pic is the actual pin:



I will actually take the lower unit off this weekend and hook this up. It looks fairly simple at this point. Don, would you happen to have the section on the lower unit? Once I get this done, I'll hook up the muffs and crank er up. Me and my wife looked over the boat, and as I said above, the rest of it is in pretty good shape. This weekend also, I will look at the stringers I can get to, check out the engine compartment and transom a little closer, and see what else I can find. Overall, I think it's in pretty good shape though.

Thanks again, and I appreciate your help.

Ed

Oh, as I look above, it looks like Haut Medoc nailed it. Agree??

 

[Don S]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

That is a Mariner OUTBOARD lower unit, not a Mercruiser outdrive!!!!!!!!\

You need to repost this in the Mercury and Mariner Outboard forum. I would just move it, but it's so long with so much wrong information for what you actually have, no one would read it all.

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

No, it's not a mariner LU. That is just the cover to another motor I have in my garage. Sorry about that. This is a LU from a Mercruiser. Again, sorry for the mix-up. I guess I need to clean my garage, eh??

 

[Don S]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

No, it's not a mariner LU.

No, that is NOT a Mercruiser lower unit. I work on these things daily, and that is a lower unit from an outboard. A Mercruiser does not have that pin.

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Okay Don, I have sent the seller another e-mail asking him more about this pin and this spare LU. I certainly won't argue with you. I know he said he got that LU mainly for the prop. So I'll get back up here when I get more information. Thanks again. I certainly don't want to go tearing into anything only to find out I either didn't have to, or am looking for the wrong things.

 

[oops!]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

hey ed.....

uh....don s really knows his stuff.....it is what he said.

that means the seller gave you the wrong part....

and youll go around in circles trying to fix it.

take it immeadatly to a seperate marine machanic...and tell him the story...

if you have the wrong part.....the origonal dealer will have to make it right or give you your money back

cheers
oops

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Okay, I'm back. Now I have the boat, I have the pin and I have lots more to go with. It turns out this pin is part of the shift shaft in the lower unit. All the rest of the outdrive is actually hooked up and complete. It's just this one pin for the shift shaft in the lower unit. It's only about an inch long, and the ends of it are kinda beveled on the top and bottom. I've attached a couple of pics to help explain it all.

This first pic shows the drive shaft and the little shaft at the front is the shift shaft (by the speedo tube). He says the shaft from the stern drive itself connects to this shaft, and this pin goes in somehow to lock it. I have not removed the lower unit yet (this one is a spare, with the good prop!).

View attachment 8650

View attachment 8651

I will actually take the lower unit off this weekend and hook this up. It looks fairly simple at this point. Don, would you happen to have the section on the lower unit? Once I get this done, I'll hook up the muffs and crank er up. Me and my wife looked over the boat, and as I said above, the rest of it is in pretty good shape. This weekend also, I will look at the stringers I can get to, check out the engine compartment and transom a little closer, and see what else I can find. Overall, I think it's in pretty good shape though.

Thanks again, and I appreciate your help.

Ed

Oh, as I look above, it looks like Haut Medoc nailed it. Agree??

No, that is not a Mercruiser lower & that is not the part I was referring to.....

 

[John_S]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

For checking stringers and transom: Use a small drill (around 1/8"). Access as low of spot on the transom from inside the bilge area. Drill no more than 1/2 way in. A drill stop set at 1" should do. Examine the wood fibers on the drill. If wet and/or water coming out of hole, you have or will have rot in the transom. Seal the hole with Marinetex 5200. If dry, try accessing other side of transom and doing same. Do same for stringers you can reach, but the depth might be a little less.

The typical soft floor spots:
- In the bow, between seats, usually from storing in a bow down position and water collected and sat in there for some time.
- Between main seats.
- Back corners/sides, near transom. Waterlogged foam.

PS: check 2 or 3 times on drill position to make sure you are going into wood and not at an angle that will take you to the outside of the hull.

 

[edjunior]

Re: 1990 Bayliner

Okay Ooops, I agree. Completely. I would not even presume to argue that. And I sure didn't mean to imply anything Don. Sorry if I came across that way. After talking with the owner again, he said he got that lower unit for the prop only. He said he got the new lower unit for the motor from a dealer in Florida. So the LU on the motor is the right one. He said he put it on himself, but did not do it correctly. I will probably take it to a mechanic close by (if I can get it in for a check without waiting a week) and have him check it out. But before I do, I would like to give it a shot myself. The owner says the only part not done correctly was hooking up the shift shaft in the LU. Don, if I could get the procedure for dropping the LU, I would appreciate it. That (with the procedure for the outdrive you already provided) would give me an idea of whether really want to tackle this or not. I always like to do stuff myself first if I can, and I have the tools to do it, just not the "complete" experience. But one way to get experience is to do it.

imported_John...thanks for the procedure to checking the stringers and stuff. I will get in and look at that stuff this weekend also. The floor is very solid in the "main" areas you mention. No soft spots noted anywhere. I think the hull/floors/transom and motor are going to be fine, it's just that dang outdrive piece. And again, it's a new outdrive, just not installed correctly.

Again, I want to thank everyone for their comments and help, and sorry if I come across as not knowing anything or argumentative. I have experience with mechanics and I have the tools to do stuff, and I really want to know how to do things myself first. Sometimes I end up paying in the end (sometimes more than it would have been had I just taken it to a pro to begin with), but that's all part of the learning process. And especially with boats (B.O.A.T), things aint' cheap, so if I can do it myself first, I'd sure druther!