1989 Starcraft Islander 221V repair and repower

[matt167]

you could add fresh water cooling/ closed cooling to any engine, but you would want to do it to NEW manifolds and risers ect... rust scale and closed cooling does not mix well.. I think Sierra still makes the I6 manifolds/ risers. The I6 was discontinued in '81, but parts are not hard to find for it.

FWIW, the 3.0L never came with closed cooling unless someone added it, and Mercruiser did have kits for it, so with the 3.0L vs 250 6cyl, your still stepping into the same thing except you have a complete 250. There is no need for fresh water/ closed cooling except in salt water

 

[Capt Spaulding]

you could add fresh water cooling/ closed cooling to any engine, but you would want to do it to NEW manifolds and risers ect... rust scale and closed cooling does not mix well.. I think Sierra still makes the I6 manifolds/ risers. The I6 was discontinued in '81, but parts are not hard to find for it.

FWIW, the 3.0L never came with closed cooling unless someone added it, and Mercruiser did have kits for it, so with the 3.0L vs 250 6cyl, your still stepping into the same thing except you have a complete 250. There is no need for fresh water/ closed cooling except in salt water

yes it will be used in salt water. if used I will have it gone thru tanked and cleaned. do you think it will fit in same motor cutout or some cutting will be needed?
would it be better to purchase a top unit with the correct ratio or a new prop will be enough?
thanks

 

[baddad1]

Thought this link might be of use:

MerCruiser Alpha Outdrive Gear Tooth Chart - NuWave Marine

Marine supplies, boat parts, and fun things for boaters. We promise the best price and customer service in the industry!

info.nuwavemarine.com

I would suggest you try and keep the gear ratio and prop pitch as close to OEM as possible. Marine applications are based on prop speed and unless you fully understand the performance curve of props, your likely to spend more money making bigger mistakes.

 

[mattsteg]

Starcraft Islanders are great towable boats, very seaworthy. Their only real issue is how light they are and tend to beat the wave rather than break it.

A youtube video is worth a thousand words...

I understand about 200 lbs in the bow in conjunction with trim tabs has a very positive effect on keeping the bow down and reducing the pounding. I intend on moving the batteries forward as well as adding an anchor chain as a ballast.

The lowest cost engine rebuilder I've come across so far is: https://www.rapidomarine.com/default.aspx?p=/engines262.aspx
Unfortunately looks like they don't offer smaller motors, but hey give them a call, you may never know...

I don't run an Islander, but I do have a 22ft V5 SS on the same hull. Adding a trolling motor with forward batteries as well as trim-tabs in back made an enormous change in wave-breaking ability. I haven't yet been out in big seas since making the upgrades, but it's been night and day cutting across big wakes from the "tuna trawler" day cruisers around here.

 

[Capt Spaulding]

I don't run an Islander, but I do have a 22ft V5 SS on the same hull. Adding a trolling motor with forward batteries as well as trim-tabs in back made an enormous change in wave-breaking ability. I haven't yet been out in big seas since making the upgrades, but it's been night and day cutting across big wakes from the "tuna trawler" day cruisers around here.

thanks for the input. when you say trim tabs what size did you use. and are they auto/fixed electric or hydraulic?

 

[DarrinT]

Compression test the 250 , if good then save the bucks for the fabbing you might have to do at a machine shop to get your closed freshwater/antifreeze cooling system.
Big fan of the 250 - that motor has was in production for decades. Parts blocks everything pretty much everywhere in any scrap yard so fabbing a custom cooling system from new means with time the might poop but you should be able to find another easy enough. Cheaper than a rebuilt unless of course you DYI. My 2 cents.

 

[mattsteg]

thanks for the input. when you say trim tabs what size did you use. and are they auto/fixed electric or hydraulic?

Bennett M120 (10x12 hydraulic)

 

[Capt Spaulding]

 

[Capt Spaulding]

ok took a bit longer than expected but finally working on boat out with the floor. what's the best way to remove the foam from under deck?

 

[Capt Spaulding]

about 3 hours and transom is on the ground

 

[MNhunter1]

I just tore out all my poured in foam this past weekend...what a pain. Was so much easier with the sheet goods they used on my '72 and '78. I used a flat pry bar and was able to get most of it out in larger chunks. Some of the more stubborn areas where it stuck to the ribs and such blasted off with the pressure washer. Still have to clean/address the hull where the foam sat against the aluminum for all those years. Doesn't look to be any pitting or anything, but I won't really know until I clean it all up.

Before and after pressure wash...still going to need a good scrubbing

 

[Capt Spaulding]

I just tore out all my poured in foam this past weekend...what a pain. Was so much easier with the sheet goods they used on my '72 and '78. I used a flat pry bar and was able to get most of it out in larger chunks. Some of the more stubborn areas where it stuck to the ribs and such blasted off with the pressure washer. Still have to clean/address the hull where the foam sat against the aluminum for all those years. Doesn't look to be any pitting or anything, but I won't really know until I clean it all up.

Before and after pressure wash...still going to need a good scrubbing
View attachment 345835View attachment 345836

good luck with project

 

[Capt Spaulding]

good luck with project

what kind of boat is that? can you take a picture of the area at the base of the transom wood on both sides does it contact bottom of hull?

 

[MNhunter1]

what kind of boat is that? can you take a picture of the area at the base of the transom wood on both sides does it contact bottom of hull?

Not sure if this was directed at me, but the pictures I posted above are of my MR180. I do not have any good pictures of the transom at the moment, but it is configured the same as my previous 15' Nova and 16' Super Sport. These are all outboard models and do not have transoms that go all the way to the bottom of the hull. There is a channel they sit it that is typically just above the height of the finished deck, and a knee brace (or sometimes multiple knee braces in certain outboard models) that is solid riveted to the bottom of the hull and comes up to through bolt to the transom.

Here are some pictures from my Nova that should give you an idea:


Again, this is common for many of the outboard models. Most of the I/O models I have seen are similar to yours with the full transom and keyhole cutout.

 

[jdvasher]

show pictures of the heat exchanger... That is for sure a 3.0L leg of the correct vintage. They are easilly swapped but for sure you have a 3.0L leg now.

I'm confused because you called the 3.0L obsolete, when it's far from it as it's still in production I think. It's nearing the end of it's lifespan, but it derived from the Chevy Nova 4cyl before becoming hugely popular in industrial and marine applications.. However the 3.7L IS obsolete, and it uses a heat exchanger, so without any pictures, 2+2=4.. This of course may not be the case, and it really does not matter.

What I would do is find a 2.5L or a 3.0L pre Gen 2 from a rotted boat. Make sure it's not cracked and let it run... Having been in multiple 2.5L and 3.0L powered SC's including a 3.0L 21' Chieftain, the 3.0L will get you where you wanna go

I would never suggest finding a 3.7L and swapping that in.. By the time you do all the upgrades, your left with something that still isn't great. They scoot but just not worth it.

its still in production but they are not really the same engine. the older ones are really getting hard to find parts for. the newer ones can be adapted to work with the older drive setups but require some different parts, flywheel, engine couple etc. They are good motors though

 

[matt167]

its still in production but they are not really the same engine. the older ones are really getting hard to find parts for. the newer ones can be adapted to work with the older drive setups but require some different parts, flywheel, engine couple etc. They are good motors though

I've never had trouble finding parts... Old style nail gimbal pins are technically NLA at this point but still found many places. It would take a machine shop no time at all to whip up a set of pins if SHTF and you can't find them

 

[jdvasher]

I've never had trouble finding parts... Old style nail gimbal pins are technically NLA at this point but still found many places. It would take a machine shop no time at all to whip up a set of pins if SHTF and you can't find them

I have, rear main thrust bearing for one. I was able to find 1 for sale luckily. It was new old stock and by the looks of the box was at least 30 years old. All the other bearing are standard an used in other motors but the rear main is wider by about 1/8 of an inch. Some of the older engines used wider crank journals and those parts are getting scarce as well.

 

[Capt Spaulding]

Best place to buy pour foam? Is there a weight I should get 2 ,3, 4 lb?

 

[jdvasher]

Best place to buy pour foam? Is there a weight I should get 2 ,3, 4 lb?

Not sure on best place but I went with Total Boat 2lb, I'm Happy with it. I would imagine any 2 part closed cell foam from a reputable company would be about the same. It really stiffened up the boat a lot.

 

[jbcurt00]

US Composites is very competitive