1989 Johnson 60 VRO

[mngatorhunt]

Ok,

I just got this boat from my neighbor and I am very proud of it. It's not the greatest boat but I only had $800 cash to spend.

Anyway, my neighbor and I are taking it out today and after reading about the VRO, I am slightly alarmed. He disconnected the VRO fuse because he said it was always going off. We checked and it is for sure getting oil.

He did say that the VRO gasket he put in was a little bigger than the required gasket and we also found a crack plastic piece on the fuel filter that we replaced.

So, my neighbor is an older fella and does not have the knowledge of these forums, so is there any ideas on why the VRO alarm goes off?

He said it started right after he replaced the VRO gasket...

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

There is no VRO fuse..... I strongly suspect that he in fact disconnected the Warning Horn which is the only warning you will receive if the engine overheats, runs out of oil, encounters a VRO failure of any kind, etc. Not Smart at all!

Reconnect that warning horn and make sure that it works by doing this.......

Engine not running but having the key in the ON position.

Find a TAN wire protruding from the cylinder head. Do not disconnect this wire but do short it out to the powerhead. This completes the circuit for the warning horn.

The horn should sound off steady. If it does not, find out why. Without it, the engine could overheat to a point where it turns brown and seizes up among other things.

(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Ok,

Here is what I found out yesterday from my neighbor. You are correct, he disconnected the warning horn. He said that it was a constant alarm and this is why he thinks it is sounding and why he disconnected it:

1. Anyway, he said that there is a small o-ring in the VRO that deteriorated due to alcohol, when he tried to purchase the small o-ring they told him that he would need to buy the complete VRO for around $250. So, he went to the hardware store and purchased an o-ring that was as close to the same size as he could find. Well, the only one he could find was a little larger and he said something about the actuator being stuck and that is why the alarm sounds...

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

There are repair/rebuild kits for many of the VRO's. Check with your dealership to see it one is available for the one you have.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Sorry to sound so ignorant, but how do I find out which one I have? I'm not really even sure what the exact year is of the Johnson 60 VRO.

 

[DJ]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Look on the engine clamp bracket for a model number and serial number.

If not there, look for a core (freeze) plug on the block. It will contain at least a serial number. A dealer can decipher it for you.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

There is usually a part number painted upon the VRO in a white color. Hopefully it is still there. If you want to premix your fuel/oil as in the past, do the following.... and RECONNECT that warning horn as without it you could find yourself with a locked up engine and a storm brewing.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.

********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

NOTE: If the VRO is completely shot, you could also do away with it altogether and install a regular fuel pump. Some other member will need to supply you with the smaller fuel pump part number.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Well, judging by you guys post counts I am in good hands. So what would you guys do? Would you keep the VRO or eliminate it?

I think I have found the o-ring that I need: http://www.offshoremarineparts.com/fuel-system/gaskets-seals/outboard/o-ring/prod_6106.html

But, my boat is equipped with a 10 gallon stainless tank under the floor on the front of the boat if that makes any difference on whether to keep the VRO or mix my own fuel.

 

[hidef]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

I would disconnect the VRO and start premixing the fuel 50:1 with TC-W3. Then you don't have to worry about the engine getting oil.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

I will go home after work and look to see what the model number is on my motor. But now I am questioning this entire VRO unit. With a 10 gallon tank, why not just pre-mix and be certain that my engine will never lock up.

ok, even if I use a pre-mix, will I still need to replace the o-ring in the VRO pump?

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

I just ordered an o-ring for the VRO at my local dealership for $3.20. I am 100% certain that is the issue with the warning horn going off steady. I mean, it just makes sense that the issue here is the larger o-ring being installed which in turn causes the actuator to stick which in turn makes the warning horn sound.

But now after all the post I have read, I'm just trying to decide if I even want to keep the VRO active!

Why trust a machine to do what I can do by myself. And I know that I'm not gonna screw it up...

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

J60TLCDS - So it looks like this motor is a 1986.

I tried testing the warning horn and it does not seem to work. Is the horn replaceable?

I followed the instructions listed above but I could not get the horn to sound.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Before tossing the horn, apply 12v directly to the slide on terminals. If the horn sounds, it is okay and a problem exists with the wiring.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Joe, I am very new to the garage and tools and to be quite honest I grew up with my grandparents so I never had that "working in the garage" time with dad growing up. So please excuse my lack of knowledge. But I must admit I am learning my way around pretty quick. Anyway, I used a battery charger and connected the black to a ground and the red to the side of the tan/brown wire terminal and no horn sounded but it did attempt to turn the engine over.

Before tossing the horn, apply 12v directly to the slide on terminals. If the horn sounds, it is okay and a problem exists with the wiring.

Here is a picture of the current wire configuration. I tried doing what you suggested but I kept blowing a fuse (picture included). Using the current configuration it does not blow the fuse, but I can not get the horn to omit any sound. But I'm not sure the wiring is the way that you said it should be in the current configuration.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

OK Joe, I am an idiot, but at least I found it out on my own. I thought the pic on the left was the warning horn. So I spent (2) hours last night and blew (6) fuses trying to get the horn to sound by using your "test the horn" instructions. But, it appears as though I was testing the "STARTER" !!!!!!

Where is the VRO Warning Horn located?

NOTE TO SELF- Following the "test warning horn" instructions that you gave will blow the fuse in the red casing EVERY SINGLE time if you are changing the wires on the STARTER and not the WARNING HORN...:facepalm:

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Horn would be within the white control box or under the console, depending on what kind of control you have.

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

1. Ok, I will post pictures tomorrow. But on the control box below the key is a (3) pin connection but it only has (1) brown wire running through it and the other (2) spots are plugged with clear plastic caps... Is this the wiring that runs to the warning horn?


2. I ordered an o-ring for the VRO pump to replace the larger o-ring that my neighbor installed. He claims that the warning horn started sounding all the time when he installed the larger o-ring because he thought the larger o-ring was keeping the acuator stuck open. Does this sound possible?

 

[mngatorhunt]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

Ok,

Here are the pictures that I promised of the control, and I just called my local dealer and it appears that my VRO O-ring should be in today.

Anyway, under the ignition is a plug in wire that has only one brown wire running into it. I am curios if this goes to the warning horn. I am going to take the control apart and test/check the warning horn to be sure it is hooked up right.

1. What is the dial for that is circled in red?
2. What is the connection that is circled in yellow?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1989 Johnson 60 VRO

The electrical plug normally has three wires connected to it and is a plug that a tachometer would normally plug into. It has nothing to do with the warning horn. The warning horn should be inside that control box and is wired directly from the ignition switch.

The knob you speak of is a friction control to keep the throttle lever from moving around (changing rpm) due to vibration.

If you don't have a service manual, it would be a good idea to get one to avoid expensive mistakes.