1989 Bayliner Capri Hard Steering

Barrelmaker

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Don't want to overthink this but need to clean and relube steering cable on the Bayliner. The big question is; do I need to remove it?
Guessing yes, as removing the old and tacky grease would need to thin it first.
My other question is; would this light penetrating grease do the trick?
 

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harringtondav

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I'd first remove the cable end from the steering tiller arm and see if the steering wheel effort improves. There could be other issues with the gimbal ring pivots causing resistance.
As far as removing, cleaning and lubing it I can only guess. I'd remove the cable from the boat if you can detatch it at the steering wheel mechanism. If the cable core won't pull out of the sheath, modify a funnel so it slips over the smallest end, duct tape seal it, and flush the sheath with mineral spirits while working the core. ...repeatedly. Also I think thin lube is better than thick grease.
 

Barrelmaker

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Thanks, harringtondav. Mineral spirits sounds perfect. I wanted to clean the old, sticky grease out with low detergent and couldn't think of any. Was going to follow up with this penetrating grease after. Did some research and it seems to be a good choice - or is there another you would suggest I could buy in Canada?
 

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harringtondav

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Thanks, harringtondav. Mineral spirits sounds perfect. I wanted to clean the old, sticky grease out with low detergent and couldn't think of any. Was going to follow up with this penetrating grease after. Did some research and it seems to be a good choice - or is there another you would suggest I could buy in Canada?
I've never used a penetrating grease. ...CRC aerosol power lube is my go-to.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,852
Clean and grease the steering rod at the motor. That is the first place it will get stiff. Use mineral spirits to clean it up real well, and marine grease to lube it up. Pulling the steering cable can help, but is not really necessary. Just do enough iterations of clean until you get all dirty grease off.

If the steering is rack and pinon, the inner cable will not be accessable, and therefore not greaseable.
 

DeepCMark58A

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Aug 17, 2015
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2,355
I do not use grease, that becomes a sticky mess. Periodic oiling serves me well. Easier because I pull the boat and it is sitting where I can work on it during the week.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Marc, Mercury Marine makes a special lube just for steering cables and prop shafts. It is called "Special Lube 101". 1 tube last for years. That is what I would recommend, if in the business of recommending.
 

poconojoe

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Sep 10, 2010
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I would first determine if it was in fact the cable. If so, and if you are thinking about removing the cable to clean and lube it or replace it, attach a string or wire to one end before pulling it out. This way you can use the string to easliy pull the cable back in and this will also ensure the cable has been pulled through the proper route.

That being said, if it were me, no way would I go through all of that work without using a new cable.

The steering on my 185 Bayliner (with power steering) got real stiff a few years ago and it was in fact the cable. I wasn't going to mess with a 15 year old cable. I found a part number written on the outside sheathing and ordered a new cable. I can now turn the wheel with one finger. Before the fix, I was literally struggling with two hands.
 

harringtondav

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I would first determine if it was in fact the cable. If so, and if you are thinking about removing the cable to clean and lube it or replace it, attach a string or wire to one end before pulling it out. This way you can use the string to easliy pull the cable back in and this will also ensure the cable has been pulled through the proper route.

That being said, if it were me, no way would I go through all of that work without using a new cable.

The steering on my 185 Bayliner (with power steering) got real stiff a few years ago and it was in fact the cable. I wasn't going to mess with a 15 year old cable. I found a part number written on the outside sheathing and ordered a new cable. I can now turn the wheel with one finger. Before the fix, I was literally struggling with two hands.
Same here. My previous boat had very stiff steering. I went through everything, including buying a snubber valve to check PS pump pressure.
I had new style Merc power assist steering. Even though the steering effort was low with the cable disconnected there was enough resistance to interfere with the sheath push/pull actuation of the steering valve.
I installed a new Teleflex rack & cable assy. The first time my son drove the boat after he thought the steering was disconnected due to the zero wheel effort.
 

poconojoe

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I will add that there's no way to determine if the cable has any fraying going on somewhere inside the sheathing.
The OP's boat is from 1989 and it might very well be the original cable. There's probably no way to tell.

When I replaced my cable I bought a kit that also included the helm. I did that because I wasn't sure if a new cable's gear would match my existing helm. I don't know why I was worried about that! I ran the new helm for a while, but it wasn't the tilt steering wheel type and I didn't like the tight leg clearance, so I switched back to my old tilt helm with no problems.
 
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