1988 Glastron X19-S rebuild

[Willyclay]

I will not test this on purpose but I figure any type of setup like this if I do the accidental "oops I forgot the drain plug" when I launch the boat is worth a try.

BTDT and my experience with a different brand's version was that a small piece of trash prevented the seal from being absolute which allowed water leakage. Be safe!

 

[snowman246]

"Now THAT'S more like it!!! Thanks for the detailed description. With the epoxy and 6.5oz cloth you now have a Tank for a transom!!! As I said, not typical for this forum but very well done. You will be following up with an overcoating of the several layers of the 6.5 oz fabric and resin on the outside and tabbing to the hull as well or will you use a heavier fabric like a 17oz biax???"

Wood, Thank you and that is correct. Once the transom is fully cured, I will start cleaning up the surrounding areas and begin the process. First thing is the back side of the transom. Top and both sides need to tabbed in, remember the transom is wider than the hull mount surface area, I have to seal those joints together. I will have to use fully soaked pieces of CSM for the 90 degree corners. Dip the CSM into the resin and install in place. I have to use CSM because the fabric will not hold the 90 degree angle as well while the resin is curing.

Once that is complete, I will use the same 6.5 ounce fabric and place 2 layers on the engine side of the transom, making sure it lays over the top and sides to completely seal the new wood.

Finally, I will seal the entire inner area where the center hole is cut out. I plan on using one layer of cloth and resin to seal the wood.

Willy, I was kind of nervous about it as well but I have had rubber plugs leak as well. I plan on using some teflon tape on the plug each time i install. Little extra work but totally worth changing to a new plug housing that isn't 27 years old. Also, I am installing an auto bilge and a manual bilge (console switch controlled). Total of 1300 gallons per hour for that just in case moment.

 

[Willyclay]

Also, I am installing an auto bilge and a manual bilge (console switch controlled). Total of 1300 gallons per hour for that just in case moment.

Sounds great!

 

[Woodonglass]

Wood, Thank you and that is correct. Once the transom is fully cured, I will start cleaning up the surrounding areas and begin the process. First thing is the back side of the transom. Top and both sides need to tabbed in, remember the transom is wider than the hull mount surface area, I have to seal those joints together. I will have to use fully soaked pieces of CSM for the 90 degree corners. Dip the CSM into the resin and install in place. I have to use CSM because the fabric will not hold the 90 degree angle as well while the resin is curing.

Once that is complete, I will use the same 6.5 ounce fabric and place 2 layers on the engine side of the transom, making sure it lays over the top and sides to completely seal the new wood.

Finally, I will seal the entire inner area where the center hole is cut out. I plan on using one layer of cloth and resin to seal the wood.

Willy, I was kind of nervous about it as well but I have had rubber plugs leak as well. I plan on using some teflon tape on the plug each time i install. Little extra work but totally worth changing to a new plug housing that isn't 27 years old. Also, I am installing an auto bilge and a manual bilge (console switch controlled). Total of 1300 gallons per hour for that just in case moment.

Uhmmm, I'm going to disagree with you here. CSM has little to no structural strength. Especially when it comes to being used with epoxy. It's meant to be used with Polyester resin since the poly with its styrene will break down the fibers and use them as a binder for the mix. Epoxy won't do that. If you use the 6.5 oz fabric I think you'll find it will conform fairly will to the structure especially if you "tug and pull" on it prior to the install to loosen the fibers a bit. The fabric will give the strength needed for the tabbing. That's my thinking on it but...it's your boat and you are free to proceed as you and your thinking see fit.:joyous: Again, what weight of cloth will you be using for your final layer??

 

[snowman246]

Since I have time to play with the cloth I will try your idea.

Wood....I think you misunderstood me. There is no structural strength needed on the rear corners. Picture the wood transom overhanging from the hull surface approx 3 inches on each side(picture putting a book 10"x10" on top of a book meauring 5"x5". The new transom is the 10x10 book.) All I am doing is sealing the back side of the transom from any water that could possibly come in contact. I added the three extra inches to allow more surface area, this will allow me to run wiring and hoses etc even further away from the engine and pass thru.

The tabbing at the bottom of the transom (down by the drain plug) will be done with the 6.5 oz. fabric also. All layers of glass will be done with the 6.5 oz. cloth. I could have purchased a small piece of 17oz or bigger but I have an abundance of the 6.5oz that will do the job in layers.

 

[Willyclay]

Once that is complete, I will use the same 6.5 ounce fabric and place 2 layers on the engine side of the transom, making sure it lays over the top and sides to completely seal the new wood.

Finally, I will seal the entire inner area where the center hole is cut out. I plan on using one layer of cloth and resin to seal the wood.

I will jump in here with a reminder about the overall thickness of the transom including the existing outside skin. It cannot be more than 2.25in. MAX and must be parallel. Good luck!

 

[snowman246]

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Willy, I did build it 2" but forgot about the 3/8" hull. To correct this, I will trace the mid- mount section and use a router to trim off the 1/4" I need.

Also got the stingers installed last night. While that is curing, I have started the swim platform. I'll post more info tomorrow along with more pics.

 

[Woodonglass]

Again I disagree. That junction at the rear where the transom meets the outer skin IS structural and needs to be tabbed with fabric.IMHO. Even though your boat is and I/O and may not have the Torque that an Outboard has if you do any towing etc on the tow eyes and the weight of the swim platform etc will place structural load on it and that seam needs to be well supported to prevent delamination. Again just my opinion and worth every cent you paid for it!!! At the very least you should really make sure the edges of the plywood are sealed extremely well all the way around. That's the first place water will try to attack the plywood.

 

[snowman246]

Wood, I tried your idea and it will work just fine. Thanks for the tip. I will use two layers of fabric on the joints. Thanks again for the tip. That's why I post my progress here. I have done repairs but nothing this extensive. Thanks to you and Willy for the input. I greatly appreciate it.

 

[snowman246]

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Got the platform together and the back trim piece installed. Overall size is 84"x28". Rear plate is 3-1/2" tall to accommodate 3" letters for the boats new name, which I will not give away just yet.

I still have to place bracing for the ladder, will be a side climb instead of rear, and fabricate the braces from transom to platform. Once done, I will glass the entire platform and cover with white anti slip coating.

Heck, I'm actually thinking this might serve as an extra fishing spot....folding camping seat area....maybe

My reasons for the platform are many...play days, easier to recover a large fish, prevent water coming over the rear of boat when in the bay or quick deceleration, and I always wanted one because they look good and make for easy on-off the boat.

 

[Willyclay]

Looks good. Making great progress!

 

[snowman246]

Willy, off topic question. Have you ever messed with Gamefisher outboards? I have a 7.5 for my small Jon boat but can't get it to run right at all.

 

[Willyclay]

Sorry, cannot help you with that one but start a new thread about it in the "Other Outboard Brands" forum and F_R and the other gurus will probably jump all over it. Good luck!

 

[snowman246]

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After 72 hours, I removed the clamps holding the transom in place. What I learned was to plug all holes prior to squeezing the transom and hull together. The inside came apart just fine. The exterior 2x4's took over an hour and a half due to the run off resin that got between the hull and the boards. This process took me the longest to keep from ripping off the gelcoat. I did pull up a few small pieces of the gel coat, maybe the size of a quarter was the biggest area affected. My thought on repairing this, chime in please Wood or Willy, I am considering sanding down the entire area around the pass thru hole and re-gelcoating white.
I figure I will mess up more spots in this area as I start installing my livewell pump and the swim platform brackets so why not repair it last and do it all white to blend in.

I have never applied gelcoat before so I will have to research the process.

Also today, I tabbed in the back and bottom of the transom. Woodonglass, your tips worked flawlessly, THANK YOU. Also, Willy, I measure the transom thickness and it came out to 2 9/16" total thickness. One night this week, I will dust off the old router and cut out the inner surface to the 2 1/4" maximum.

What type of paint do you guys use to paint the transom and the bilge area (under the engine). Is there anything specific you guys have used and really like?

You guys have been incredible with your knowledge and passing it on. I don't know how to thank you enough. If you guys have any input on the gelcoat repair for the rear, let me know. Thanks.

 

[Woodonglass]

IMO, you have 3 viable options...

1.) roll on gelcoat. It'll be the most durable, not that hard to do in this instance since the final finish doesn't have to be show room quality. You DO have to work a bit quickly since, like resin, it "Kicks Off" in about 15-20 mins soo... you only want to mix about a quart at a time to make sure you get it all rolled out before it does.

2.) BilgeKote paint. Very durable and holds up well in this area of the boat.

3.) Good old Rustoleum oil base paint with added hardener. I'll hold up really well and is very inexpensive to use and readily available. All are very good choice. Take your pick and..."Git er Dun!!!!!"

 

[snowman246]

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[snowman246]

Got the floor, rear deck and foam boxes cut to fit today.

 

[snowman246]

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So, I got LOTS done yesterday. I routed the transom to the spec depth (Thanks again Willy). I will smooth it all out using a grinder with a lap pad on it.

Also, began building my engine bay wall. I decided to go with an engine access door in the middle and hard permanent sides. This entire piece will be glassed and then painted white. My door will open towards the front, being hinged on the bottom. To prevent engine noise from escaping I will seal the edges by the hull with glass and cloth and the door opening will have wood trim on the inside (stop the door from going in and create a noise barrier).

Due to the curves of the boat, I will have to mount the deck over the engine permanent. I plan on installing 2x4's on the sides of the boat, approximately 8" long. I will drill 1/4" holes thru the deck and the 2x4 plates and attach the deck using Stainless Steel bolts, lock washers and wingnuts. Still removable if necessary.

While I was looking and measuring, I found my new styrofoam cooler was a perfect fit for my livewell mounting area. I will shim it up to the bottom of the deck and cut a hole in the lid matching the hole in the deck. This cooler is approx 1-1/4" thick all the way around and only used once.

I have already started glassing the outside of the cooler, just to give added strength, and planning the plumbing. Using a 500gph bilge pump, I will build an aerator setup inside the cooler with a ball valve set up. Easy drain and no maintenance.

I am off Fri, Sat and Sun so more work will be done while the weather is nice. More photos to come.

 

[Willyclay]

Looking good. Good luck this weekend!

 

[snowman246]

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Got the foam boxes finished up. Each one is glassed with tape on all edges for added support, same as it came from the factory. I also got the fuel tank installed (along with a new fuel sending unit), and the deck installed and glasses in place on the sides, same as factory. Also, put the top layer of cloth and resin on the transom. Everything is solid as I think it could get. Got the first coat of paint on the boxes, bilge and transom about 20 mins ago. Second coat will come tomorrow evening. Hoping to get the foam poured in Tuesday evening and the anti-slip paint on the deck Wednesday morning and let it set up and dry over the holiday weekend.