When I put my two leads on the two blue wires, my meter goes all the way across to the zero. same thing happened when I put the leads on the yellow/green stripe wires. same thing when I checked the two yellow/ green striped wires still attached to the rectifier.When you says you have 0 Ohms do you mean infinity or short circuit.
If infinity the stator is bad, there is an interruption in the winding.
If short circuit the stator is bad too.
Charge coil should read 680-800 Ohm at the winding and infinity to ground.
I have it set at 1000Okey you are using an analog VOM with a needle gauge.
In what range to you have it when measuring.
I suppose you can change the range from example 200 Ohm, 2000 Ohm (2 KOhm) and 20000 Ohm (20 MOhm).
And yes, it is an analog meterI have it set at 1000
Ok sir, back to the plan of replacing the stator. I am going to reinstall the flywheel this evening and double check the voltage output again just for the hell of it. Thanks again for all your help and guidance in helping me troubleshoot this. I will let you know how it turns out after I replace the stator.
When I put my two leads on the two blue wires, my meter goes all the way across to the zero. same thing happened when I put the leads on the yellow/green stripe wires. same thing when I checked the two yellow/ green striped wires still attached to the rectifier.
Did you try reading between a blue wire and a yellow wire? Based on the original schematic, there should only be 4 wires from your stator. 2-Blue Wires and 2 Green/Yellow wire. If there are six wires then that stator is not the original stator with 6 wires there should be 2-Blue, 2-Yellow and 2- Green/Yellow. If you have two green/yellow for the rectifier then the other 2 remaining wires should be brown or solid yellow. This is an indication the stator is for the "D" model. Check schematic again.Ok sir, back to the plan of replacing the stator. I am going to reinstall the flywheel this evening and double check the voltage output again just for the hell of it. Thanks again for all your help and guidance in helping me troubleshoot this. I will let you know how it turns out after I replace the stator.
Be mindful of the color scheme, when a wire is solid color that is given what color is indicated, e.g. blue wire means just that solid blue color. However, if a wire has a stripe color, then the main body color is described first followed by a slash on the color of the stripe, e.g. Yellow/Green (abbreviated Yel/Grn or even Yl/Gr) means the main color is yellow and the stripe color is green. Which is different from Green/Yellow or Grn/Yel where the main color is green with a yellow stripe.
Yes sir, I understand. I misrepresented my colors. I do have the 4 wire stator with 2 solid blue wires and 2 striped wires, Green with a yellow stripe.Did you try reading between a blue wire and a yellow wire? Based on the original schematic, there should only be 4 wires from your stator. 2-Blue Wires and 2 Green/Yellow wire. If there are six wires then that stator is not the original stator with 6 wires there should be 2-Blue, 2-Yellow and 2- Green/Yellow. If you have two green/yellow for the rectifier then the other 2 remaining wires should be brown or solid yellow. This is an indication the stator is for the "D" model. Check schematic again.
It is definitely not the D model. Model # 507Y8C 1988 US Marine Force 50 HPYes sir, I understand. I misrepresented my colors. I do have the 4 wire stator with 2 solid blue wires and 2 striped wires, Green with a yellow stripe.
Well it's great to know it only has 4 wires, 2-blue wires and 2-grn/yel wires. If you read zero ohms between the blue wires then that stator is shorted. I'm presuming you at least had one wire disconnected from the terminal board before taking the reading or better yet all wires disconnected. Between the grn/yel wires, getting a zero reading is not necessarily bad as the resistance (ohm) reading on this charging circuit is pretty low, i.e. less than 1 ohm or 0.5~1.0 ohm depending on temperature of the winding.Yes sir, I understand. I misrepresented my colors. I do have the 4 wire stator with 2 solid blue wires and 2 striped wires, Green with a yellow stripe.
When you receive your CDI stator it will come with instructions and diagram. And you should follow it to the letter. With six wires you have the option of either putting two wires of the same color (Brn/Yel to Brn/Yel; Brn/Blu to Brn/Blu) together or just using one of each colored wires (except for the rectifier wires) and just taping off the remaining two wires. Unfortunately, the forum system for attaching files is not working.I think it is safe to say my stator is bad. I'm looking for a stator now and found a CDI stator with 6 wires instead of the 4. It is what came up on CDI's website as well. Can you tell me what 4 wires to hook up once I get the stator? also, the outward appearance of the stator looks a little different but the bolt pattern appears to be the same as mine.
Jiggz, I went on eBay to search for a stator before I tried ebasicpower or crowleymarine to see if I could find one a little cheaper. Much to my amazement, someone had just put up a stator for model #507R8C and it is exactly like mine but it's used. My model # is 507Y8C. I purchased the used one because it appeared to be in good shape. The wiring on it looked new and nothing appeared burned on the windings. Plus, I got it for $108.00 with free shipping. I also bought a new rectifier for $20.00 so I am going to replace it too just for the heck of it. Once the parts come in, I will jump right on them and get them installed. I will return to the forum and let you know how it turns out. I can't thank you enough for all your help and support with this ignition issue. If you were from around here, I would most definitely treat you to a steak dinner to show my appreciation!!When you receive your CDI stator it will come with instructions and diagram. And you should follow it to the letter. With six wires you have the option of either putting two wires of the same color (Brn/Yel to Brn/Yel; Brn/Blu to Brn/Blu) together or just using one of each colored wires (except for the rectifier wires) and just taping off the remaining two wires. Unfortunately, the forum system for attaching files is not working.
Try not to destroy the old stator. Maybe it can be salvaged unless there are burn marks in the windings.
Since it is used. Make sure you do the following before installing it.Jiggz, I went on eBay to search for a stator before I tried ebasicpower or crowleymarine to see if I could find one a little cheaper. Much to my amazement, someone had just put up a stator for model #507R8C and it is exactly like mine but it's used. My model # is 507Y8C. I purchased the used one because it appeared to be in good shape. The wiring on it looked new and nothing appeared burned on the windings. Plus, I got it for $108.00 with free shipping. I also bought a new rectifier for $20.00 so I am going to replace it too just for the heck of it. Once the parts come in, I will jump right on them and get them installed. I will return to the forum and let you know how it turns out. I can't thank you enough for all your help and support with this ignition issue. If you were from around here, I would most definitely treat you to a steak dinner to show my appreciation!!
I will definitely check it good before installing it with my Ohm meter. I have a digital Fluke that measures in the thousands on ohms. The rectifier I bought is also from the same engine and it looks identical to mine. I may just keep it for a spare and continue to use the one I have already. I don't believe anything is wrong with it.Since it is used. Make sure you do the following before installing it.
1. Read the resistance of the blue-blue wires and it should be around 680-800 ohms. Anything less is a bad sign.
2. Read resistance between the green/yel wires and it should be around 0.5-1.0 ohm.
3. Read insulation resistance one blue wire and then the other probe to the core or laminate core of the stator and it should be in megaohms or at least greater than 2 Megaohms.
4. Read the charging circuit insulation resistance doing the same one probe on the green/yel wire and other probe to ground or laminate core and it should be in megaohms.
Step 3 and 4 ensures the unit is not grounded or shorted to ground.
Is the rectifier the same as the old one?
