1987 trophy 170 restore

[b4drowning]

I have been lurking on the forum for a while and decided to jump in. The advice given here is second to none for honesty and content. I have figured out this is a process requiring advice and knowledge from many different angles and do appreciate all advice anbd discussion about my project.My goal with this project is to completely restore the craft tobasicaslly a new solid vessel with a few modifications to increase available room for fishing and joy riding. The boat was in fairly good shape, but there is some pitting in the bottom of the hull, as well as a crack in the midship bulkhead. I also would like to modify the transom to add a jumpseat on either side of the slashwell. I planned on a new transom plate, but $1000 says i modify the one I have- this presents questions as well. the question I have today is:
1. how best to repair the crack in the bulkhead- I was thinkin a .090 plate solid rivited on ceach side.
2 What is the best way to modify the transom- was thinking to get a sheet of .032 5052 and make a new transom plate that will cover the old. Hammer form this over the transom template i made and solid rivit the hull, old transom plate and new transom plate together, then cut a couple of scrap pieces of .090 to fill in the splashwell-0 should it be a concern for warpage if I have the splashwell fill in pieces welded in.

i hope you can see these pictures- im really green at thjis stuff
http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/plkluge/slideshow/

 

[jbcurt00]

Wow, jumped in is right:

Is this ^^^ where the boat is currently?

 

[b4drowning]

for the most part yes- I have brushed most of the interior, as well as the old transom. expect to have the entire inside done at the end of the weekend.

 

[Woodonglass]

WOW, Never seen THAT done before on a TINNER!!!!:jaw::rockon:

 

[b4drowning]

i hope this works out

 

[Woodonglass]

I remember this project now!!! Was there a reason for starting a New thread on the same project??

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-transom-plate

Have you read the Forum Rules?

Forum Rules

 

[b4drowning]

yes i have read the rules- i was asking one off questions before deciding to start posting my entire project. I am sorry if I have offended or upset anyone.

 

[jbcurt00]

Iboats is much more active then other forums, often responses are posted minutes after a question is posted. Usually in less then a couple hours, but very infrequently does it take a day or 2.

W/ frequent posting, if someone hadn't read thru the other topics about forming the transom or anything else discussed in those topics, they might again bring up work hardening the aluminum hammering it over a form. Since it was already brought up, and you still intend to do it that way, it isn't really necessary to discuss it again.

During a boat rehab, many areas overlap and when they do, having multiple conversations about similar details gets complicated for those trying to follow along and either learn how to do something similar or help you accomplish your goal, if they can't see where you started, and how you got to where you are in a rebuild.

But just it's your boat, it's your topic and your posts, if you'd prefer to post separate parts of the rebuild separately, that'd be fine too.

Just trying to keep track of a bunch of topics can get challenging.....

 

[b4drowning]

thanks- i want to keep it all together. I originally wanted to pound out .090 6061 and was advised it was to hard and to thick to avoid cracking. I found some folks who would make the piece of 5052 but want over $1000 just for the one piece- i cant afford that so- my next thought would be to reuse the transom plate I took out and put in a .032 shell over it, but I suspect this would need to be flanged like the existing plate to rivet to the hull. Am I still barking up the same tree with cracking on the .032 piece, would this be massive overkill, or just plain un-neccesary. my attempt is not to be overly redundant in questions, but I am looking for the best cost effective solution. I thought taking out the transom plate made sense, but that was probably not the right thing to do. I just dont want to dig my hole any deeper than I have. Thanks again

 

[kcassells]

Well I'm not a tinner but the work looks pretty cool. Ya got wood...so your good! I like that transom replacement. Time for glassing and tinning. Interesting. I'ma gonna keep an eye out on this thread. Stick to 1 thread and you'll be just fine.

 

[b4drowning]

finished cleaning and polishing the old transom, verified new wood transom cutout. will start coasting the new wood transom with epoxy this weekend, while I finish cleaning the inside of the hull. plan is to modify existing transom plate and re-install with 1/4 solid rivits- should I fill all the existing rivit holes on the transom plate with JB weld and smooth out before re-riviting the plate in place?

 

[b4drowning]

well things always take longer than expected, but after 12hrs of work I am almost done getting inside clean toi white metal. I do have some pitting about 1/2 way through the hull on the starboard side. I was able to get all the corrosion out, but will still give it a vinegar bath and wash. Is the best way to fix this marine -tex, then gluvit??? Also wondering if it is best to fill the drilled out rivet holes with JB weld and redrill all holes before re-attaching the transom plate?

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah290/plkluge/IMG_01671_zpsww8nfjyl.jpg

 

[Woodonglass]

I've never seen a project here on iBoats or any other restoration forum where the aluminum stern was removed from the boat and then replaced, so I have nothing to reference or guide you with. Maybe some of the experienced "Tinners" will come along with some answers. I WILL be watching and learning!!! I truly Wish you Well!!!

 

[b4drowning]

Thanks- i jumped into this as practice to build an airplane. The way they make ribs (from scratch) and such made me ask the question about pounding out the transom plate- EAA approved. This project was a training exercise in sheetmetal and aluminum work with solid rivets for me. Sounds like im paveing a path here for others if the thing floats when I'm done. I am going to reuse the transom plate I took out, fill all the existing 3/16 rivet holes with JB weld- sand smooth, apply a good bead of 5200 between hull and transom plate after drilling new matched 1/4 rivet holes, and buck the rivets. after a week Ill do a leak test- I hope it holds water. If anyone out there has any suggestions- im all ears. thanks for the support all

 

[b4drowning]

this weekend I vineger washed the inside and dug out all the corrosion, rinsed with pressure washer, sealed all rivet holes with jb weld and made patch for cracked bulkhead. when I went to rivet the patch, I found they did not send the proper bushing with my new rivet gun. thought a simple trip to hardware store would solve that, but no such luck- Batco uses a "special" bushing for air supply. contacted the company and they will send me an entire new air hammer. Onto sanding the rivet hole and corrosion fixes and get the transom plate ready for re-install
http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/plkluge/slideshow/

 

[Woodonglass]

What sealant will you be using for the install?

 

[b4drowning]

when I took the transom out it looked like Alumicraft used some type of sealant tape, I was planning on useing 3m 5200 sealant adhesive with a good ooze. can you think of something better- I have 2 10oz tubes of 5200- it was a bit expensive.

 

[Woodonglass]

I am NOT a "Tinner" Never owned one, never worked on one. My next door neighbor is an autobody GURU!! I've asked him about your boat and he suggested this stuff.http://www.eastwood.com/2k-seam-sealer-and-cartridge-gun-kit.html He thinks it would be perfect for the job. Says it's used on auto body seams and is 100% waterproof when cured. Again, I DON'T KNOW but it might be worth investigating. It seems plausible. But, then again, I AM an Old Dumb Okie so what do I know!!!

 

[b4drowning]

i will look into it- thanks a bunch- you guys know stuff, im the one who doesnt know anything, but sometimes thinks he does. Thanks WOG

 

[b4drowning]

Appreciate the tip on the eastwood seam sealer, but the set time is really short. When i put the transom in, I expect it to take a few hours to keep striaght and pound the 150 or so rivets. This may be good to use on the seam inside and out after the transom is riveted, then Gluvit on the entire bottom of the boat. could be overkill, but I really dont want any leaks for some reason.