1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

Joined
Mar 27, 2010
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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

Cooling System Flow Diagram- In my post #28 down the list. attached at the bottom. Click on it and it will enlarge. ;)
 

scv76

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 17, 2011
Messages
33
Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

This thread is confusing...It would be nice to have pictures associated to what is being checked.
You may have reported on this and I missed it, but I would like to know if when you remove the hose from the front of the heat exchanger and put water through the muffs (engine running), did you get good water out the hose?

Asking this because if you do get good water flow at this point, and get good water at the point where Stonyloam suggested in post #24 and 33, then you still may have a problem with your heat exchanger. You said you cleaned it out and ran a rod through the bores....I seem to remember that the end gasket blocks off flow depending on how it is installed. Maybe one of the experts here can verify is this could be a problem, or if the position of the gasket is a non-issue.

Also interested in the fact that you had to replace engine liquid when you first noted you overheated. Where did the fluid go? Did it go out the pressure cap, or has liquid been exiting through the weep hole at front of engine?
Power steering fluid cooler also plugged?
 

stonyloam

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Mar 13, 2009
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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

scv lit up a bulb here, so I went back and read over the manual again and looked at how the water flows through the exchanger. The seawater goes in the front of the exchanger and then flows through (17) tubes to the back, then (8) to the front, (9) to the back, (8) to the to the front, and (17) again to the back and out. So if a hunk of impeller came in the front it could block off some of the tubes at the inlet. I know you had the endcaps off already but it may be worthwhile checking again, and make sure the endcap gaskets are good so the water flows properly back and forth. If the gasket does not seal properly the seawater can "short circuit" and bypass some of the tubes. As for your ignition I just reinstalled (long story) a Petronix Igniter II and flamethrower coil, all my ignition problems solved. Good luck!
 

krepe

Cadet
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

So I went and spent the fortune $86 on a new coil and the damn thing still won't start. New coil, plugs, wires it just turns and turns over, I do smell fuel so it's not fuel. This has to be something stupid, there's no kill switch on it that I know of unless it's hidden. There's a reset switch on the motor that's all. There's a fuse up where the key is which ties onto the ignition and runs to the starter which the fuse is good, there's plenty of fuel in the boat. I don't know what to do, I didn't touch anything that I am aware of.. Sigh..
 

stonyloam

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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

OK it is not that hard: Just have to go step by step. First this is how it works: When the engine is turning over with the starter, +12V goes to the + side of the coil from the slave solenoid out through the - through through the closed points to ground. That current builds up a magnetic field in the primary windings of the coil. As the engine turns one of the lobes in the distributor causes the points to open stopping the current flow and the magnetic field collapses causing a voltage buildup in the secondary windings of the coil (20,000 volts or so). That high voltage travels from the center wire of the coil to the center of the cap, down into the rotor, which if timed correctly is pointed at one of the posts on the distributer. The spark jumps the gap and travels up into the plug wire, on to the spark plug where it jumps the gap to ground. So you got no spark. So no voltage no spark, as the engine is cranking, make sure battery voltage is being applied to the + side of the coil. Next if the points do not open and close properly no spark. Clean them up with a fine file (not sandpaper). With the key on, you should have 7 volts or so at the + side of the coil (reduced by the resistance wire). One way to check for spark, take off the distributor cap, take the center wire and place it about 1/4 inch from the block. Turn the key on. If the points are closed, open them with an insulated tool, every time they open you should get a spark. If open, short across them, and every time you remove the jumper you should get a spark. There is not much more that can go wrong. Sorry to be so long winded. Good luck.
 

krepe

Cadet
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Apr 18, 2011
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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

OK most of the people advising you have no clue. It is not a clogged riser because you have a closed cooling system with antifreeze that circulates through the exhaust manifold. On a seawater cooled system the riser can become clogged and block the water flow, on your engine the seawater used to cool the heat exchanger (long black tube) is simply dumped into the exhaust behind the riser. I would suggest that your heat exchanger probably needs cleaning, or you have some other blocage in the seawater half of the cooling system. Download manual #8 for the MCM 3.7, 470 engine ( I don't have the link, but I am sure someone here can give it to you) and follow the instructions. You probably should do a compression check to make sure the head gasket is OK. Stick with us, we'll get you on the water. Welcome to the 470 club:eek:

I just spoke with my mechanic and he said my riser is clogged. he said he put a hose on it and water barely goes through it. he said this is why when i go slow or when it is hooked up to muffs it doesnt overheat but when i get going the water isnt going through fast enough to cool it and i overheat. ? the boat is a 1987 thompson 20 ft. with a mercruiser inboard/outboard 165 hp. you had said that my riser cant be clogged. am i being screwed by my mechanic or is this a possibility on why i overheat?
thanks, phill
 

dn010

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
301
Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

This thread is way too confusing, and getting worse by bringing other issues into the mix. Start a new thread for your starting issues.

This shouldn't be too hard to figure out, there is only so many things to look at when it is a cooling issue. First of all I know you said the impeller was replaced, but you first say you had a mechanic replace it and then the PO replaced it... Was it replaced recently along with the housing? You need to take the cooling system diagram and start at the beginning, and check everything to the end. If the riser is suspect - remove it and check it out.
 

stonyloam

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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

you had said that my riser cant be clogged. am i being screwed by my mechanic or is this a possibility on why i overheat?
thanks, phill

That is what I thought, because it looked like the seawater from the exchanger just dumps into the exhaust elbow, but it looks like it actually goes in the inlet on the side and around the inside of the elbow (about 270 degrees) and exits through a slot on top. I assume that is to keep the connection to the rubber bellow cool. So that is where the clog could be. I don't know if you can call that the riser, but it would certainly act the same as a clogged riser. I guess the best way to fix it would be to remove the reservoir and turn it over and see if you can clean it out. I guess I was wrong, but I have never seen the inside of one, but looking from the outside it is pretty hard to tell. Your mechanic is probably right. Good luck.
 

krepe

Cadet
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
24
Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

it was replaced twice within a short period of time. this is all one issue. overheating. dont get bent out of shape, sorry im new at boats, sorry im confusing you.
 

dawson515

Seaman
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
61
Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

I have the same engine in my boat that I just purchased last week for nearly nothing. I took it on the water for the first time yesterday and it ran a little hot. I did not let the temp get over 200 degrees because I do not feel like replacing the head gasket. My boat was winterized and I bet one of my problems is that the drain plugs are not tightened all the way. Once i figure out what is causing my overheating, then I will pass it onto you.
 

stonyloam

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Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

Winterizing that engine consists of pulling the aft plug on the heat exchanger, that is it. If it were leaking, it would be dumping into the bilge. More likely your impeller.
 

dawson515

Seaman
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
61
Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

This is the first boat that I have owned with a closed cooling system. How hot should this boat run?
 

dawson515

Seaman
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
61
Re: 1987 mercruiser 165hp 3.7

Well then, I guess I dont have an overheating issue then. I overheated a boat last year and replaced and blew the head gasket and I did not want to do it again. Thanks for your help.
 
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