1986 Starcraft Mariner 210...I think?

[g0nef1sshn]

I could be wrong, but maybe its just the sealer thats old and separating if the wood still feels solid?

 

[laurentide]

I could be wrong, but maybe its just the sealer thats old and separating if the wood still feels solid?

Yeah, hopefully that's it. The easiest way to tell would be to get a phillips head on the screws behind that joint to make sure they're in good wood. Then seal it up with 5200 and paint after scraping that old junk out of there. Here's hoping it's just dried out sealant.

I see what GF is saying in this pic, but it could also be some movement going on there:

 

[GA_Boater]

I hope I'm wrong, but I think it's wishful thinking. It's easier to R and R the transom than doing the floors. After you get the motor off, anyway.

I bet the long wings up to the gunnel are going away. The hidden parts go first.

 

[classiccat]

+1 on what GaB said, see if the transom flexes when you apply force to the motor. If you see the gap vary, then the transom needs to be replaced.

Also, check the kneebrace for cracking at the screw tabs.

 

[Watermann]

Hey Lago, :welcome: to the Starmada. So how about some more info on your Mariner please? Year, length, power and full shot pic of the overall craft would be great. Where you're at PB after uploading your pics, look to the right on the page, at the line of links there click in the IMG code line as it will auto copy and then past it here in your thread. That's how the guys replying are doing it to see the pics in their replies.

 

[Lago86]

Thanks for the replies. I doubt I can check it out tomorrow as it's mother's day, but who knows.

Waterman...I posted a while back about the boat. Here's a link I hope;

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...ts/8550148-1986-starcraft-mariner-210-i-think

 

[laurentide]

You stated in that thread from last year that the deck was soft. Transoms will go at about the same rate, give or take.

Also from our buddy classiccat in that thread:

"Things start to go south on these in the transom area. Crawl underneath the splashwell with a flashlight and check for cracks in the kneebrace. While you're down there, look for corrosion around the bottom hull skin...esp near the kneebrace rivets. Also look for separation between the splashwell and the transom...(PO's often compensate with silicone caulk ) Look for cracks in the splashwell. Lastly, get a good grab on the powerhead (trimmed-down) and move it in/out to see if the transom flexes....any flex and the transom probably needs to be replaced."

With the deck rotting as well you will need to do a gut and rebuild. Probably $1-2K if you can do it yourself and a few weeks of dry dock if you're working part time on it. Don't be intimidated. If you can run a drill and a circular saw you have the skill required. It will also allow you to get that pour-in foam out and replaced with rigid flotation. Save all the old plywood as templates.

You do risk further damage to aluminum structural components if you continue to run it as is, and it's not necessarily safe to be on the water. That v4 is heavy.

 

[Lago86]

If I have to sink $2k into this I better be able to sleep in it

 

[Watermann]

If I have to sink $2k into this I better be able to sleep in it

Try looking at new boats sometime if you want to have a cardiac episode. :faint2:

A word of advice to get the most out of the forum, stay with one thread on your Mariner to avoid all the confusion about whats been said elsewhere being repeated over on new threads for each stage of your mariner encounter. Maybe ask a Mod to combine your threads here so guys don't have to go on the hunt in other threads to try and find out what you got going on. Motor topics on the other hand should be posted in their forum to get the best results.

Looking forward to seeing the Mariner on the waves! :happy:

 

[Lago86]

Ok...I asked to have my threads merged. Is the floor riveted or screwed down, assuming it's original.

 

[GA_Boater]

Ok...I asked to have my threads merged. Is the floor riveted or screwed down, assuming it's original.

Done, Lago. It does make it easier and less confusing for us members when a single thread is used when talking about the re-do. Of course motor or other non-rebuild questions should be in the other forums.

About the floor fastening - SC riveted the floor in the factory. If you have screws, a PO has redone the floors.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah standard SC decking is 1/2" and they used large flange aluminium blind rivets to secure the deck to the rib ends while using a strip of .080 to join the deck section seams.

 

[Lago86]

I finally had some time to get under the splashwell and it looks good. I put a phillips head on all the screws I could reach and they are tight. All the wood looks fine. The floor back there is rotted and wet, but it's not touching the transom wood. Here are some pictures. I know it looks like rot here and there but it's just dirt and such.











This is the panel I took off to access the right side of the gas tank. The tank is tiny! I have to add more fuel capacity. Should I mod the back to add a bigger tank or find a way to install one mid or forward? I'm a little concerned about weight in the back. I have the 115 Yammy and a Merc 9.9 back there also.

 

[GA_Boater]

I would look real close on the Port side, The motor lower clamp bolt has a bit of rust and water marks on the wood. Also I would pull the tank out and look around the port side of the ransom. To me, it looks like a lot of water marking there too. Judging by the goop smeared around, some one was trying stop water intrusion. Can you make out anything on the tank label a far as capacity?

Boy, I thought I had tight quarters under the splashwell, but I have a little boat compared to this 21 footer. You need some leprechauns to help out under there, Lago. LOL

 

[Lago86]

GA...you're killing me

Just when I thought I was home free...

 

[laurentide]

I believe that's an 18 gallon tank, which is about as big a tank as will fit under there. If you do a rebuild you can go to a belly tank under the deck between the stringers.

I'm with GA. You need to replace the deck anyway, so doing the transom isn't that much more work. It looks wet to me behind the tank, and I bet those skinny pieces up top will look the same behind the splashwell separation.

 

[Lago86]

Well, I hope the motors don't fall off this season and I'll have the woodwork done over the winter. I still want to try the standing on the motor test as soon as I reinstall the battery. Whatever the size of the tank, you're right Chem in that nothing bigger would fit anyway. I guess the splashwell could be modified but I'd like to keep it original. The tank does have a label on top but my phone can't really capture the text on it. I'll have to carry extra fuel for longer trips I guess. Thanks again for your help Gents!

 

[GA_Boater]

GA...you're killing me

Just when I thought I was home free...

:sorry:, bud.

We've seen this kinda thing so often. When a transom penetration has water marks, it's usually leaking. And with the goop all over, it's a sign the PO was trying to seal some leaks..

Really when you do the floors, the transom really isn't much more. After you do all the wood, she'll be good for years and years.

If you can measure the tank - L X W X D divided by 231 will give you a close approximation of the gallons.

 

[jbcurt00]

I think that's an 18gal tank, IIRC......

Or might be a 12gal....

Since it's steel, I doubt you'd ever regret replacing it.

 

[Lago86]

No Title

That certainly looks like the tank minus the lettering...thanks.

I'm guessing I should seal up the gaps/cracks between the transom & splashwell for this season. Should I use 5200 or just any flexible sealant? If this guy can do this, I can just spray the whole back of the boat and be home free right!:lol::lol::lol: