1986 Starcraft Islander

[choover852]

I am doing some work on a 22' islander and have a question regarding the decking. I have torn out one section of the old decking, cut new, and painted with Tuff Coat. I bought some coated TEK self tapping wood to metal screws and thought these would be pretty slick. The problem is, the aluminum sub framing is too thin and the hole strips out very easily. Any suggestions on what kind of screw to use for fastening the deck? I would rather use screws than rivets.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

I have used decking screws in the past, predrilled and coated in 5200.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

Same here. I used a adjustable torque cordless drill to drive the screws and reduced the torque after the screw got into the metal. I didn't strip any out.

Post some pics. It won't help solve your problem, but it puts a our faces.

 

[choover852]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

I will try to get some pictures up soon, we pulled the outboard off tonight to start replacing the transom.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

I used the SS Sharx screws, they have some serious teeth and bite that thin aluminum very well. I would use the size 10 in the length you need for your decking and counter sink the holes.

316 SS Sharx Flat Head Phillips Screws

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

If your aluminum is that thin, then rivets would be best. Lots of starcrafts come with riveted decking (OEM), there's a reason for this and I think you found out what that reason is.

 

[choover852]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

This was my grandfathers boat, and it started as "just needs new batteries and fresh fuel" and has turned into a lot more than that! A lot of fun to work on tho.

 

[choover852]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander



Some progress photos, I don't think they are all rotated the right way?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

it started as "just needs new batteries and fresh fuel" and has turned into a lot more than that!

They always do.....:facepalm:

Hey, she'll make for a great project though!:thumb:

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

This was my grandfathers boat, and it started as "just needs new batteries and fresh fuel" and has turned into a lot more than that! A lot of fun to work on tho.

That is a true statement. After you finish the re-build it "just needs new batteries and fresh fuel" before the splash.

Don't give up and you can salute your Grandfather after every trip. Like you said - A lot of fun to work on.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

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Some progress photos, I don't think they are all rotated the right way?

Rotated right if you have foam on the ceiling...:lol:

It will be an adventure that creates new friends and memories.

 

[choover852]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

I have made some more progress on the "Freebee". The old transom is pulled, it was in a lot worse shape than I had thought, can't believe how much water logged weight it was carrying. I have the new transom cut and the glue is setting. Used screws to temporarily hold the boards together while the glue is drying. Any suggestions on what to "seal" the new transom with? I was thinking 2-3 coats of epoxy paint. Also, what is the recommended caulk/sealant to use around the bolts/screws when putting it back together?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

I'm hoping that you had spread that adhesive otherwise you'll have voids in between the two plys.

Epoxy is good, varnish is good, porch and floor paint is good, lots of options there to seal it up.

For fasteners, 3M 5200 works super.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

OK, that's not fair that your transom was such an easy cut out! Doesn't the transom wood extend up on the sides of the cut out on that Islander?

On my transom wood I used a 3 step process after drilling the holes. Oil base zinser primer 2 coats, oil base rusto enamel paint 2 coats and then 3 coats of Helmsman spar varnish. Ya it took a while to get it done but the finish looks real nice.

 

[choover852]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

I did not think to spread to glue, hopefully the temporary screws will help with the voids? Yes, the transom does extend up the sides, but the sides were two separate pieces (three separate transom pcs total), got lucky there which made the removal a lot easier. Drilled a few rivets out of the back corner cover on one side and was able to slightly bend it up along an existing crease to allow the main transom piece to come out with a little maneuvering. I got the two corner pieces cut tonight, hopefully start sealing tomorrow and maybe start putting it back together over the weekend? I am thinking I will leave the bilge pan off until the floor is replaced, just makes for easier access. I am also debating using SS screws and nuts to re-install the bilge pan in lieu of rivets, just in case I ever have to take it back apart again. Is this a good or a bad idea?

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

Your glue have any squeeze out to show that it spread itself out filling the voids? If so you should be fine. By the way what type of glue did you use?

I used SS machine screws and t nuts with teeth underneath on the wood for my splashwell. I think it's a good idea to use the SS screws with nylocks for putting your side pieces on the main splashwell piece. I think the splashwell is what you're calling a bilge pan?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

Your glue have any squeeze out

Yup, this is what yur after ^^^. Ensures a solid bond ya know.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

Yup, this is what yur after ^^^. Ensures a solid bond ya know.

For sure, and when you use the 1" hole saw bit for the drain tubes take a look at the plugs cut out to check your bond between the plys.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

it appears that you used Liquid nails for your adhesive and if the pic indicates all the adhesive that was used, IMHO it will be inadequate for the transom. The transom is one of the most critical structural components of your boat and on an aluminum boat the adhesion of the two layers must be 100%. Since the adhesive was not spread over 100% of the mating surfaces the lamination will probably fail at some time in the future which will not be good. If you have not installed it yet, I would highly recommend redoing it. But hey, I'm just an

and a "Glasser" to boot, so what do I know.

 

[low277]

Re: 1986 Starcraft Islander

If you are still looking for screws to fasten your deck down, I have used these on a Lund Tyee that I replaced the floor in a few years back.

10-24 x 1-7/16 Self-Drilling Metal Screws, Stainless Steel, Wafer Head, Phillips Drive, Screws - McFeely's

The tyee that I redid had screws similar to this from the factory, although they were not stainless.