1986 glasstream

[Dlp78]

Ok, I will pull some measurements and all to check things, I don't know how I could've before pulling the cap because it was all one big mold, I have the boat sitting on something like a set of bunks I built out of some blocks and 2x4's, not sure if I should add more to it, I will make a sketch and all though kinda like a print. I have all the power mentioned and with what little bit I have done already I have been wearing it, I don't want none of it getting on me if I can help it.

 

[Dlp78]

In my last post I meant to say I have the ppe mentioned, anyway it's been a few days but I was able to pull some more measurements and check some stuff out, I also went ahead and built n put some more bracing on it too, I think I am good to go now. So I have a few questions though, first off should I still just do a few stringers at a time or is it safe to take them all out at once, secondly I have been looking into resin and if I get the 435 laminating resin for all my repairs do I need to get a wax or something for it in order for a full cure, the one place that was suggested I looked at said wax/sanding aid. I will try to post more pics tomorrow and as I go with everything, thanks to all

 

[gm280]

In my last post I meant to say I have the ppe mentioned, anyway it's been a few days but I was able to pull some more measurements and check some stuff out, I also went ahead and built n put some more bracing on it too, I think I am good to go now. So I have a few questions though, first off should I still just do a few stringers at a time or is it safe to take them all out at once, secondly I have been looking into resin and if I get the 435 laminating resin for all my repairs do I need to get a wax or something for it in order for a full cure, the one place that was suggested I looked at said wax/sanding aid. I will try to post more pics tomorrow and as I go with everything, thanks to all

Dlp78, those are very good questions. Most iboater building their stringers and bulkheads don't use waxed resin. And that is because it you use waxed, then you have to sand the surface and wipe them down really well for anything else to adhere to them. And so you usually just go with unwaxed for those reasons. The polyester 435 resins will cure perfectly without the wax.

As for building everything at the same time with respect to stringers and bulkheads. Each hull leans itself to different ways. If you can easily install each part on its own without any issues with installing other parts, that would be the easiest for you. But if you can't install it that way and have to install everything at the same time, you may need help and assistance to help you with that. So it really depends how you are doing your structure work.

If you can work it out to install everything piece part style, that is the easiest to do. JMHO

 

[Dlp78]

Thank you for the reply and advice, I was planning to build back piece by piece as far as work on glassing in one thing at a time and working on something else while that piece cures and such, what I am not sure about though is should I demo one stringer and then put that one back n glass it in then demo another stringer n so on, or can or should I demo all the stringers out at one time but then put them back one at a time. I guess it's more the demo process I am questioning

 

[gm280]

Thank you for the reply and advice, I was planning to build back piece by piece as far as work on glassing in one thing at a time and working on something else while that piece cures and such, what I am not sure about though is should I demo one stringer and then put that one back n glass it in then demo another stringer n so on, or can or should I demo all the stringers out at one time but then put them back one at a time. I guess it's more the demo process I am questioning

Okay, I guess I must have misunderstood what you were asking. That happens a lot with me. :sorry:

If you take very good measurement AND tons of pictures, then I would demo everything out first and then grind it all in prep for the new stringers and bulkheads. Then if you want and can, install each piece back one or more parts at a time, that would would be how I would approach it. But that is just my opinion.

 

[Dlp78]

No harm or foul and I appreciate the advice and opinions, this is my first boat and first resto, I will say I fished out of it all last year before doing this so I am looking forward to getting it back out and looking n being stronger than before, I just don't want to make things harder on myself or mess something up that will be irreversible. The stringers themselves seem kinda close to each other as far as working room and two of the I believe what looks like 7 total actually go all the way to the transom, I thought about cutting those two back to start and then going ahead and doing my transom first before digging in to the stringers themselves.

 

[gm280]

No harm or foul and I appreciate the advice and opinions, this is my first boat and first resto, I will say I fished out of it all last year before doing this so I am looking forward to getting it back out and looking n being stronger than before, I just don't want to make things harder on myself or mess something up that will be irreversible. The stringers themselves seem kinda close to each other as far as working room and two of the I believe what looks like 7 total actually go all the way to the transom, I thought about cutting those two back to start and then going ahead and doing my transom first before digging in to the stringers themselves.

You can approach it however you wish. But most demo the hull with everything out first before going back with new parts. But there really isn't any hard and fast rules or reasons. So which ever way you like is the best way for you. And every hull is different then any other hull. While the all share similar construction, each hull is built as its own boat. So whatever you like will work. JMHO

 

[Dlp78]

No Title

So I got all the foam removed and cleaned up, still got some vacuuming though, and now I can see more and more why everyone says it can will be better than it was, I have completed found several areas where that could have been way better where it wasn't even sealed up or looks like it wasn't wet out enough. Here are some more pics though

 

[Dlp78]

No Title

Those last two pics of the previous post is where the transom ties in, here are more. If I can I plan to actually start cutting more out today, I will keep y'all posted

 

[gm280]

I realize what you are saying and showing. But I think most boats have similar places like that. I know I did and more then I would have thought as well. But I did grind the entire hull to remove all those iffy areas and then covered the entire hull with polyester resin and CSM fiberglass. Did I really need to do that? Probably not, but it gave me pace of mind. You are proceed very well. Keep up the crappy, dusty, itchy, smelly, dirty work and it will pay off. :thumb:

 

[Inshoremac]

Very cool project. This boat seems very similar to mine and same year Glasstream. Very helpful to see the stringer layout thru the whole boat. And explains what this big globs of adhesive were for lol.

 

[Inshoremac]

BTW, can you tell me what your total length of your boat is? Mines like 15' on the dot.

 

[Dlp78]

Hi there everyone, been a few days but so far I have got four of the stringers cut out so far since last post, needless to say I have a big mess to clean out with all the rotted wood and such that I found. Hopefully after some cleanup today I will post some more pics. In regards to the length of the boat it was labeled as in the ad and I think on my title as being 15'6 but when I measure it I to come up with 15' on the dot, I have to dig it up and check but I cant remember what the title says. Inshoremac your boat looks a lot like mine but for the dual console setup, mine has like a rod locker that runs down the side where yours has the other console, but your stringer layout from what I can see in the pics in your post looks to be the same. Just for help if anyone would like to know the stringer removal was going slow and kicking my butt at first but after some trying several different methods and tools I have found that a 4 1/2 inch grinder with a segmented concrete or masonry diamond wheel seems to work the best, not only will it cut through the fiberglass but it also cuts or scores into the wood better than a cut off wheel and some of the other stuff I tried, I got more done in a few hours after work with that wheel than I did the previous two days before without it. As of right now I have the entire transom cut all the way out and ready for clean up along with the two little kick panels I guess they are that the transom tie down mounts was mounted that were located to each side of the transom. I also have 4 of the 7 stringers cut out and ready for cleanup and grinding. Hopefully I can get some more done today and will keep everyone posted on the progress