I was referencing the carbs for each cylinder. Some of these old engines have a particular order that the carbs have to go back in even though they look exactly the same. Not sure if your engine falls into that category. You thought about doing another rebuild of your carbs again? Did you remove and clean out under your welch plugs? You can get cheap punch set from harbor freight for under $5 to redo your float kit.
For the tach, first is finding out if your motor already has been setup with wiring for it. Once identified how it is wired, just getting a simple tach for reference is easy enough. You can pick up a cheapo off fleabay for $15 or you can go and get a true marine tach for $50-$100
I knew what you meant. My carbs have right angle connects for the fuel lines. One points up, the other points down. Plus there is the connector between the carbs for the throttle plate. One has it on top, the other on the bottom. Unless you strip these all the way down and take apart every last component, which I did not do, it is physically impossible to put them in backwards. Also, they are identical other then how things were mounted. Just in case, though, I kept all parts separate and with each carb to avoid mixing up parts.
So the horn I was planning on putting on for the automatic switch. Can't remember whose thread I saw it in, but they referenced there's was going and they didn't know it. Finally figured it out when battery was dead and boat was partially submerged. That way I will know if I am taking on more water then I should. Also plan to install a little toggle switch so I can turn the horn off if I think it is getting annoying.
When I was in trucking we had a light and buzzer in the dash that went off when we received a critical message, like info about the load changing, we're no longer bringing it to the destination and are swapping with another driver, etc. The red light would go on and the buzzer would sound to get our attention, but thankfully there was a switch to turn off the buzzer, though the light would remain on until the message was read. I was going to wire in something similar. A red warning light and a buzzer with a switch to kill the buzzer so I don't abandon ship just to get away from it.
Like this:
Boating within your limits is always good. With as small a boat we have I don't plan on exiting the bay or going out past the jetties. Sorry, but going a couple miles off shore just for some fish isn't worth the risk in my opinion.
I would have no issue venturing further out if either a) the motor ran perfectly with no issues or b) I had a 15-20 HP kicker/emergency motor. My 55lb trolling motor gets us up to a decent speed, but we'd probably run out of power before getting back to shore.
. (Side note, I typed "videos" and the phone auto corrected to "evidence")