1985 StarCraft Islander 221v fixer upper.

DCampbell

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Aug 16, 2018
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I can see the purpose of the bow rail on the bow, but what purpose does it serve on the cabin ? tie down maybe ?
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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I can see the purpose of the bow rail on the bow, but what purpose does it serve on the cabin ? tie down maybe ?
grab rail for walking on the gunnels...since most humans who have reached puberty can't fit through the bow hatch 🤣
 

DCampbell

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grab rail for walking on the gunnels...since most humans who have reached puberty can't fit through the bow hatch 🤣
yeah , I was wondering that. I havent tried it yet. The rails are a little low for me to grab, guess I could try for one on the way overboard, lol
 

DCampbell

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what thickness aluminum to seal outdrive hole ? Im assuming its .100 transom thickness , so do I need a little extra thickness?
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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what thickness aluminum to seal outdrive hole ? Im assuming its .100 transom thickness , so do I need a little extra thickness?
I guess alot of the design/thickness depends on what your plan is. You don't want the patch interfering with outboard mounting, kneebrace supports, splashwell, etc.

Several members have used large buttered with 5200 and scabbed almost the entire transom.

I would probably have 2 pieces...one that sits flush inside of the hole as close as possible to the transom thickness. The exterior piece I'd probably make the full height of the transom...and width depending on whether you're going with an offshore bracket or mounting directly to the transom.
 

DCampbell

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I was hoping I had a binnacle control shifter, lol. NOPE! this thing is a single cable electric shift lol. my other one too a crap and I thought sweet I might be able to use this one . apparently these stringer drive model parts are all alone.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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I deleted the all the rails on my Chief, makes for a less cluttered look to my eye.

I would use .080 -.100 AL for a the cover plate, thickness of it really isn't an issue it's just to keep it sealed up is all.
 

DCampbell

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I deleted the all the rails on my Chief, makes for a less cluttered look to my eye.

I would use .080 -.100 AL for a the cover plate, thickness of it really isn't an issue it's just to keep it sealed up is all.
brother if i can get my rig to look as good as your rigs , I will be a happy man. Fantastic work on your boats. Your Chief has got me thinking, lol I love the bigger cabins on those.

I have decided to use the bracket , I ordered two pieces of aluminum yesterday. a .100 piece and a .250 . One to fill the hole so its flush and to build a plate to cover the hole. I may tack the inside one just to hold it in place then I can butter the outer plate with 5200 over the top and rivet it down along the outside edge. I can use the .250 to fab up some knee brackets to the stringers. I have a 1/2 thick aluminum c channel I can use for the inside bracing to strengthen the transom. crazy part is the .100 was more expensive then the .250 . same dimensions other than thickness. go figure.
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Thanks, lots of fun and don't think of it as work. :)

That pricing is odd, didn't think AL was a supply and demand item it should have been priced by the amount of material one would think.

Yeah the .100 is the right thickness for the transom skin and if the .250 was cheaper why not use it for sure. (y)
 

DCampbell

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I started pulling the waterlogged foam today. The foam was poured around the Gas tank filler hose and the vent hose, no saving them . The foam was frozen so it made the job a little different . not harder really just slower. being frozen helped it stay together in blocks , lol. I got the Gas tank cleaned off some and it seems I have a 44 gallon tank. there is a red and chrome sticker on the top that tells the alloy as 5052 and 44 gallon capacity. I will take a pic tomorrow . it seems to have three partitions or baffles by the looks of the top. I got the transom removed . It has had trim tabs mounted, I still have the hydraulic hoses and fitting attached to the pump. a couple of sonar transducers and a outboard aux bracket screwed on the back so it took a few minutes to get it all loose. It came right out. I removed the back plate rivets and the rail about three feet along the edge slid the rail over bent up the gunnel at the end and walla! I was surprised at how well this transom was braced for a I/O. it had the main stringers braced with angles and the side gunnels screwed down to the Transom as well. My Crestliner sportfish was an I/O and there were no braces from the stringers to the transom. I guess they figured a welded hull was enough, lol. The outside stringers were kind of thin on the starcraft , but it seems the foam was more structural than I originally thought. I may think of a way to stiffen these since I wont be putting pour in foam back in. just poly styrene . I will get some pics tomorrow for sure.
 

DCampbell

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Aug 16, 2018
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guys , the gas tank is surrounded by foam. It looks like I will have to dig it out all around before I try to pull it. is that everyone experience as well ? I havent tried to just pop it out , worth a try ? lol
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Mar 8, 2017
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Pour foam gets everywhere, so not surprised tanks is encapsulated. You may be able to setup a short pulley system at both ends to try and lift it out or at least pop the tank.

SHSU
 

DCampbell

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Sorry guys , no pics yet . taking a little longer getting all the foam out . froze. getting the two panels , bulkheads under the dash is taking a little longer as well. I got the cuddy pulled apart and the roof panels out. working on it though.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Mar 8, 2017
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1,073
Sorry guys , no pics yet . taking a little longer getting all the foam out . froze. getting the two panels , bulkheads under the dash is taking a little longer as well. I got the cuddy pulled apart and the roof panels out. working on it though.
I think we all run into poor time line prediction on our restorations. lol

Join the party :D :D :D

SHSU
 

sidingguy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
84
Take a handsaw and saw down the sides of the tank.Very gently!Then very gently pry up on corners of the tank.My tank had foam only where it leaked thru the stringers at the ribs.I think some of the foam was used to keep the tank from moving also.
 
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