1985 Bayline Capri Cuddy rebuild, The boat that just keeps on giving..

[sheboyganjohn]

Looks like you did a good job grinding. Pictures came through fine.

 

[TheAbyss]

Well, got another 3 hours grinding tonight, just as it seems the grinding is almost done , one cant help to got a little more, then find something else.

My question is when tabbing and glassing in the stringers and bulkheads in this boat, How far should I go from the stringer up to the side of the boat. I have from the inside of the stringers to the center line all ground out so the glass will go from stringer to stringer on the inside and on the outside of the stringer I have 6 inch approx all cleaned up. The factory stringer well it was a joke, it was glassed on the outside up over the top and up a ways towards the deck and on the inside it had some CSM about 1-2 inch up the side of the stringer and then bare wood..

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I usually do 3" tabbings of 1708 up the stringer, and to the floor. The second layer extends 3" more for 6" up and down. I really dislike using PL to bed and do fillets because as it gasses out it develops bubbles. The popped bubbles make it extremely difficult to lay glass over. Since PL is fairly soft, its hard to sand the bubbles out. I used thickened resin with 1/4" chop for all my bedding and fillets. I find the extra strength and tool ability much better than PL. If you get the PL too thick, it may not fully cure in the center. This happened to me, and was very frustrating. PL is made for glueing items together that you tightly clamp, I don't think it makes a very good filler or filleting material. I used PL for gluing my layers of transom wood together, and other wood items, so I am a fan of it in those applications.

 

[redneck joe]

I just opened a photobucket account and put all my pictures for the forum there and just paste the link in. I have over 300 pictures in a free account and still have not even used 1/4 of the space they give you.

Lower the resolution on you phone or camera. Ive got over 1000 and am less than 10%

 

[TheAbyss]

as a general surface condition, when one is done grinding, just how smooth does the surface have to be, when grinding with a 5" 24grit disc one tends to leave waves in the glass, is this ok or does it have to be near perfect, or will the poly resin fill in the gaps and such.with a little csm if need be.

 

[ondarvr]

If the surface has some irregularities the CSM will fill them and bond fine, worst case you may need a second layer of CSM.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I learned that PL will not bubble if you just leave it as it lays. If you try smoothing it out, then it starts to bubble. I bed the stringers in PL and then put a fillet at the joint with peanut butter (after a few days of drying for the PL) so the glass will lay nice.

I did basically the same for tabbing. I used a 6" wide piece then a 10" wide piece, if I remember correctly. I also tend to do wet, on wet, on wet. I put the fillet in, then put the first tabbing over it and then the second over that and let the whole mess dry as one unit. I found that laying the tabbing out upside down and wetting the CSM side first then putting in place makes the wetting out process much easier.

 

[gsxrdan]

nice alien feature - is that etched in the paint or the metal underneath? (or is that just a dumb question??) good to see the grinding is nearly done, but i havnt seen the obligatory dust monkey selfie yet - mask goggles and suit!

 

[TheAbyss]

No Title

The alien is Laser etched into the paint down to the primer and aluminum then i clear coat it to protect the base metal.

I can cut acrylic and thin wood (depending on the type) cork, rubber, gasket material like butter, so for the most part as long as it isnt a metal gasket I can cut it basically anything a 60 watt co2 laser can cut. And for anyone needing help, I can help out with any gaskets you may need just need to CAD it up and away we go (please don't consider this an advertisement and if this is against the rules as it sits let me know and i'll remove it)
Me and the wife run a vinyl decal and laser etching home based shop

So by the time I'm done this boat it will be quite custom indeed, Once my new Numbers are registered then it's time to make a set of custom Numbers, The big problem is the amount of colors and metallic color vinyls available and the sheer number of fonts I have, they are my own worst enemy. Most people want the standard block letters in black, thats no fun

Ok so on to my next question, From the deck to the hull how far should it be tabbed and glassed? right now there is right around 8-9inches from the edge of where the ply will sit to the cleaned up fiberglass. I guess this question would go for everything else, and I've read 20 different answers, how far does one need to glass from the wood onto the existing fiberglass, like for bulkheads and the seat boxes and such. This will all be done with Polyester resin, and there again I know a lot of people swear by it and only use it and others say epoxy only, but the bank says at 3-4 times the cost of Poly at $175 5 gallons here. So poly 100% it is.

Thanks for you time all.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

For the 1708 tabbing, one layer going anywhere from 2 to 3" out onto the hull and the second layer going 5 to 6" out on the hull. Each piece will be twice as wide as listed so it can also go up the stringer the same amount.

 

[kcassells]

Exactly like just said and you will be super fine.

 

[TheAbyss]

well, the boat is ground out, and ready for wood fitting fun. I have been reading and like everything else 1 question 30 answers. I've been reading and it seems white oak is the go to wood for stingers. I priced it out and its right around $160 for the 6 pieces. The old stringers were 100% not oak, and i cant see the point spending the $ on material for a 60k$ boat in a 8k boat when done, on a good day.. What is everyone else using in this stringer application. Judging by the glass thickness and the fact that one side of factory stringer had what amounted to no glass or resin, the stringer is designed to be active. From everything I can read I see that unless very carefully glassed in the stringers will one day again go to crap, but with proper care it should be 30 years from now. With this in mind, Spruce, fir, pine? I have a thickness planer and jointer So i can laminate or build with rough wood, but gotta figure out which is the best bet. I do understand that it needs to be straight grained and no knots. I'm also gonna go with some 7ply exterior plywood as marine ply here is $90+ a sheet.

Thanks Again
Jerome

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I just used 3/4 ply. That is what came out so that is what I put back in. Now if you were building an all wood boat with mechanical fasteners, then white oak would be a good choice. It does not need to be marine grade plywood. Exterior glued and very few to no voids is the key. If you were making actual hull sections I would then say marine grade. It is verified not to have voids.

 

[TheAbyss]

So being that solid wood stringers came out of this bayliner, should I put solid back in, it feels like a softwood of some type, almost pine, and some real nice knots in the bottom half of one side making it as strong as a toothpick..... In the end if others are using plywood for the stringers on way bigger boats then all should be well if I take some 3/4 and lam 2 pieces together then that should be good? or would some pine or even spruce be good.Right now i have the 4cyl 2.1 to put back, but next season or somewhere around there i would like to put in a v6 or v8, so if I can over build right now to some amount when i go to repower there will be no issues

 

[Jbasham]

The general consensus around here is to use plywood for the stringers as it is much stronger than dimensional lumber. My boats stringers were also solid dimensional lumber but I replaced them with laminated ply ( 2 layers of 3/4" glued together) Im currently restoring my boat as well, check out my thread below.

 

[TheAbyss]

plywood it is then.. and lots cheaper as an added bonus. I can only expect that the more ply the better i can get my hands on 7ply acx not sure what the acx means but its in homedepot and rona aroubd here

 

[sheboyganjohn]

The first two letters are the grade of the 2 faces of the plywood. From what most people will see in the stores it goes from A the highest to D the lowest. So a AC plywood would have one side A grade the other C grade. X indicates that it has waterproof glue. The Tigerply ACX from Menards is what I used for the Sea Ray.

 

[TheAbyss]

Do you remember what type of wood the tigerply is? The ACX around here is from AraucoPly which is that radiata pine wood and from what i have read on here and else where is it not rot resistant at all. This leads me to the thought that once sealed in glass , no wood is rot resistant. if or more so When water gets into encased wood of any type short of teak or similar it's gonna rot no matter what you buy, maybe not as fast but once the water is there, it's there. The upside to the ACX from arauc is they state the the cores are nearly void free there by reducing the "rot pockets". So at half the price of marine ply I can get the stuff for $50 a sheet @3/4 and 7 ply. At the end of the day does it really matter if it is the radiata pine, or would it be better to use standard spruce or Doug Fir but it's only 5 ply iirc

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I looked on Menards website and they no longer list tigerply, but they have ACX which is the same radial cut pine. Looks just like the stuff I used for the stringer. For the deck I used BCX 5 ply since I was glassing over the top and was not as concerned if there was a void. Personally I believe at the end of the day you either need wood that is fully encased and not getting wet or you will have rot. I have left pieces of the radial pine ply lay outside over the winter on the ground. Other then a bit of a warp, they were still structurally sound. Actually cut a few of them up to use for temp. brackets on other projects and the core looked brand new.

 

[TheAbyss]

my thoughts as well. I can only imagine that the best way to prevent the horrible rot syndrome is to glass the crap out of everything. So as it seems that others have used the radiata pine and i cant see why it shouldn't work for myself as well. After doing more reading I understand that fiberglass will wick water quite badly and i understand the gelcoat on the outside keeps the water where its supposed to be, but my big question and thoughs are is there a way we can coat the stringers and bulkheads in something that the resin will still bite into, eg a thin layer of gelcoat or something to that effect. I'll imagine the best way is to keep the outer gelcoat in good order and gelcoat the deck? add in proper limber holes, the absence of foam (this boat didn't have factory foam) inspection holes and hell i have an idea that most would consider way overkill, i happen to have a blower motor for them blowup kiddie castles has a 4" output. so if i have a inspection port in one end of the deck and a second om the other end i should be able to push a wack of air through the underside thereby drying everything out should it get wet. I like to try different things but need to make sure to follow the best bang for the buck theory.