1984 starcraft islander

[Neschenbrenner]

Are these loops for lifting?

 

[Gibbles]

Are these loops for lifting?
View attachment 396098

yes sir!
Lucky you have them too.
Many outboards require an adapter for the flywheel (Merc for instance).

 

[Neschenbrenner]

Building a makeshift gantry to remove the engines so I can get at the transom.

 

[Gibbles]

Building a makeshift gantry to remove the engines so I can get at the transom.

For an outboard, my father-in-law made one using two ladders.
He was able to remove and reinstall one of those v4 evinrude from his boat.

It was super sketchy, i didn't want to be anywhere near it... lol


I'll also warn you, his evenrude was challenging to change the water pump impeller.
His had a water supply tube for each bank in the v4.

Not the best design Imo.
We only did it once though, one of his daughters took it out and the water pump impeller finally died and plugged the cooling system up.
It never ran right afterwards.

When that thing was running 100%, it was a nice engine, lots of power and torque.
Worth trying to save imo.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

So my plan is to replace the transom remount the motors and then take the boat to a marina and see what it would cost to get the motors running / tuned up. That may change once I get find out what it will cost.

 

[havoc_squad]

yes sir!
Lucky you have them too.
Many outboards require an adapter for the flywheel (Merc for instance).

Yes, you can, however it is easier for balance on that motor to lift the motor using the Evinrude/Johnson BRP flywheel puller/lift tool/lower unit bearing carrier puller tool.

If you use that lift ring the motor will like to tilt on you somewhat. It's definitely doable but if you plan to service the 1978 or newer V4 OMC crossflow outboards, you might as well buy this tool.

At some point you'll need to remove that flywheel and this tool is probably the best and safest for doing that without damaging the stator/timing base.

Evinrude/Johnson BRP Part# 0378103 for the flywheel and lower unit bearing carrier puller
Evinrude/Johnson BRP Part# 0321537 for the lift eye/ring for lifting the entire engine and just the powerhead.

A very tall Gantry is not necessary for just pulling a standard 20 in shaft outboard off a boat. The biggest limitation might be is if you plan to put it on a stand, the stand might be too wide to fit inside the front shop crane legs.

The harbor Freight 2 ton cranes go up to 90.5" vertical height at the fullest extension. Since it's only about 400 pounds or less, one can easily use that longest 1000 max setting on the hoist.

If you are pulling a V6 or V8 inboard engine, well your clearance would be much less due to them being closer to 1000 pounds and may not clear even if the boat & trailer were put on blocks to reduce the boat height.

 

[Gibbles]

Well if all else fails, it's an outboard.
Easy to pop one off and slap another one in there.

I have an I/O for my new to me islander, first time with one.

so far; In some ways its much cheaper to deal with if I do my own work, it would be even cheaper/easier to deal with if it was a 350 chev vs the 4.3.
Aftermarket for a chev v8 is awesome.

still not terrible for the 4.3, but not many people build them unless it's going in a boat.

I have an image of my gantry solution in my islander thread, I used stuff called Unistrut.
Available in the electrical isle as most hardware stores, Lowes and Home Depot have different brands of the same stuff.

Over built a little because it has to span under the garage door, new to me mig welder that I bought over Christmas has been very handy!

 

[Neschenbrenner]

Got them off.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

So the guy I bought this boat from gave me a piece of wood to use for a transom. Would you guys use it? Looks like marine plywood.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

Made some progress today. Hopefully have everything out tomorrow.

 

[MNhunter1]

So the guy I bought this boat from gave me a piece of wood to use for a transom. Would you guys use it? Looks like marine plywood.

For peace of mind, I'd source my own wood for the transom replacement unless you could confidently identify it as good marine ply. The last thing you want is a piece of treated ply inside your aluminum boat, especially in areas like your transom.

 

[matt167]

If the plywood supplied is rated exposure 1 and is light in color it’s safe to use.. if its dark like pressure treated than no.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. What's everyone's thoughts on synthetic boards?

 

[Gibbles]

I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. What's everyone's thoughts on synthetic boards?

I think they sound amazing; I haven't heard anything negative yet.

 

[MNhunter1]

I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. What's everyone's thoughts on synthetic boards?

For a transom? I've seen it done by others, but considering the number of years the factory unsealed wood lasted, a properly sealed wood replacement will likely outlive the useable life of the boat at a much more attractive price point.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

These corners seem to be the worst of the rot. Any ideas on how I can avoid that in the future? Didn't seem like it was sealed good there before I took it apart.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

Here's the wood I have.

 

[Gibbles]

The second board looks like pine to me, pine is bad.
First board looks like nothing special, others can chime in, just that first board looks like some furniture my dad made when I was a kid.
It was pine board, I spent lots of time amazed by that wood grain pattern.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

First picture is just a picture from the side of the laminations.

 

[Neschenbrenner]

My local plywood store has this. Would that be the correct type of plywood?